Fluval 405 canister filter????????????

Tony'sReef

New member
For the past six years I have been using an Fluval 405 canister filter.
I just tested my water and found a spike of nitrate to 40ppm, (very bad)
I don't know if it the lack of water changes or my crush coral holding dead
uneaten food and wast. I'm going to replace my crush coral with live sand.
Does anyone know if I should replace my filter???

Tony F
 
I don't use a filter in my 55g reef and just run a skimmer, two koralia evolutions & a phosban reactor. If you have enough rock for biological filtration I don't feel you need a filter like a fluval, etc. It may become a NA factory, yes. I don't have experience with CC so I'm not sure if that can trap a lot of junk in it.

When you say a "lack of water changes" how long are you going without a WC. I do 5g every week religiously for my tank.
 
i know most people say not to use a canister filter on a reef tank . i also think you will release a boat load of toxins if you start scooping out you substrate. so do it slowly over a few weeks maybe.
 
I do 12gal. every 4 weeks, but their where some times that I went 12weeks with out a water change.I'm going to start with 12gal. every two weeks, I hope that will be enough
to have good water quality?

Tony F
 
12 weeks without a WC is pretty long, unless you have a really stable system I would think it would cause issues. Good water quality has so many factors to it.

I think cosistency & quality are the keys to stabilizing a tank's health. Using a good salt mix, having a lot of good live rock, running a reactor to keep PO4 down, having a good skimmer for pulling out waste, running a sump, using RO/DI water only, not overfeeding, rinsing frozen food, not overstocking, good circulation throughout the tank, etc.

There's so many factors but def ramp up on the water changes, it's good to do 50% every month. What size is your tank?
 
I have 55gal. tank. Can you recommend a skimmer and RO/DI system

I have an HOB AquaC Remora Skimmer because I don't have a sump. I use a maxi-jet 1200 for the pump. It does well on my 55g and I may even upgrade to the Pro model sometime soon: http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaC_Re...n_Skimmers-AquaC-AC3111-FIPSHOSI-ACRM-vi.html

See your other thread for an RO/DI unit, I posted a link to the SpectraPure sale, they are quality units for great prices.

Here's some pics of my 55g, it's been doing great since I started it as a FOWLR about 8 months ago:
 

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Wow you have a beautiful aquarium. Can you tank a picture of your Hob Aquac Remor Skimmer mounted on the tank. I have the same tank which I could see on both sides. I would like to see how that looks. I trying to have a clean look for my tank. Do you have a filter? What kind of lighting do you have?
I thinking of getting an MH with 15,000K - 20,000K lighting fixture.
 
I do 12gal. every 4 weeks, but their where some times that I went 12weeks with out a water change.I'm going to start with 12gal. every two weeks, I hope that will be enough
to have good water quality?

Tony F

this seems way to long in between w/c i also do a water change of 5 gal every week in my tank,also try using a gravel syphon maybe to avoid removing your substrate to help clean things up.
 
For the past six years I have been using an Fluval 405 canister filter.
I just tested my water and found a spike of nitrate to 40ppm, (very bad)
I don't know if it the lack of water changes or my crush coral holding dead
uneaten food and wast. I'm going to replace my crush coral with live sand.
Does anyone know if I should replace my filter???

Tony F

Regarding the use of a Fluval, I think we need to know what you are running in the Fluval and how often you are changing it before we can answer whether or not you should keep it. Are you using mechanical filtration (filter pads)? Are you using plastic bioballs or ceramic bioballs or no bioballs? Do you have any carbon in the canister? Any Phosban? Chemipure?

More importantaly, how often are you cleaning the filter? If you are using things in it that can trap and hold waste then you need to be cleaning it out every two weeks or so, depending on how dirty the tank is.

I run a Fluval 405 on my 46 gallon (since I don't have a sump on that tank) and I love how clean it keeps the water as long as I keep the filter clean. If you aren't maintaining the filter then you are better off without it.
Sue


Sue
 
Wow you have a beautiful aquarium. Can you tank a picture of your Hob Aquac Remor Skimmer mounted on the tank. I have the same tank which I could see on both sides. I would like to see how that looks. I trying to have a clean look for my tank. Do you have a filter? What kind of lighting do you have?
I thinking of getting an MH with 15,000K - 20,000K lighting fixture.

Thanks for the kind words. Here's a pic of the side-view of my tank with the Remora skimmer. The skimmer is not very deep so it fits nicely in back. I also like the clean look but I do have two powerheads in the tank, one to run my skimmer and the other to run my phosban reactor. I'm renting a nice apt. with brand new hardwood floors and won't put a sump on my tank until I have my own house so I don't have to worry.

I have a TEK Elite 4x54w bulb fixture with 2 Blue +, 1 Purple Fiji, & 1 AquaBlue for bulb combo. I would have gone the ATI route but I cannot hang the fixture as my landlord won't allow it.
 

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Sue, I use Aquea-pure phosphate pad. I am not using carbon.
I use ceramic bioballs, which I had in the filter for about six years. Should I replace?
I am thinking of using carbon. I was not cleaning my fluval, scared of removing bacteria.
I am thinking of cleaning every two weeks? Will that lower nitrate in the fulval?
Should I install a skimmer? I going to start adding soft and hard corals in my tank.

Tony F
 
Sue, I use Aquea-pure phosphate pad. I am not using carbon.
I use ceramic bioballs, which I had in the filter for about six years. Should I replace?
I am thinking of using carbon. I was not cleaning my fluval, scared of removing bacteria.
I am thinking of cleaning every two weeks? Will that lower nitrate in the fulval?
Should I install a skimmer? I going to start adding soft and hard corals in my tank.

Tony F

I think a skimmer is a MUST, def get one. IMO I would get rid of the Fluval, it's not needed and could just cause NA spikes. I run Chemi Pure Elite in my phosban reactor, which is a combo of PO4 remover and carbon. My water is always sparkling and my PO4 is always 0 or below.
 
Sue, I use Aquea-pure phosphate pad. I am not using carbon.
I use ceramic bioballs, which I had in the filter for about six years. Should I replace?
I am thinking of using carbon. I was not cleaning my fluval, scared of removing bacteria.
I am thinking of cleaning every two weeks? Will that lower nitrate in the fulval?
Should I install a skimmer? I going to start adding soft and hard corals in my tank.

Tony F

Hi Tony.

If you haven't cleaned your Fluval I can almost guarantee that's where your nitrate is coming from. If you're going to use a canister filter you have to clean it at least once a month. If you can't commit to that, then get rid of it because it's doing more harm than good. I'm sure you've got all kinds of gunk and bad stuff on the ceramic bioballs and especially on the phosphate pad. It's acting as a mechanical filter and catching stuff that is now rotting.

I use my Fluval on the tank that doesn't have a sump... if for nothing else it gives me additional water flow and a place to put in Chemipure, Phosban, and carbon when I need it.

Clean your Fluval, do a big water change, and you'll see the nitrates go way down.

Sue
 
Interesting article by Scott Fellman regarding water changes.

by
Scott Fellman



Published on 05-19-2010
14 Comments Comments
With advances in technology, collection practices, and communication among hobbyists, it’s never been easier to enjoy a healthy and beautiful display of reef creatures in your own home. After spending some time in the hobby and achieving success, you might still see someone else’s amazing reef system, supporting a thriving population of rare or challenging species and wonder to yourself, “How did that guy do it?” Did he/she spend a lot of money on fancy gadgets, or just hit a run of extraordinary luck?

You didn’t think it would be that simple, did you? Let’s be honest. Successful reef systems involve the merging of proper planning, good design, and husbandry techniques to create optimum conditions for captive animals to thrive. To sum it up, in a word, it’s about acquiring habits- the good habits that set apart a truly successful hobbyist from the masses. Sometimes, it’s helpful to re-visit seemingly basic practices to move ahead successfully.

One of the easiest (and best) things that we can do to achieve and maintain success with our captive reef systems is to perform regular water changes. Yet, it is baffling to me why so many aquarists resist performing regular water changes on their systems. In fact, you’re bound to encounter hobbyists who will proudly boast that they perform a water change “once in a while”, if ever!. Seriously?

Water changes tend to be viewed by most hobbyists as a necessary evil; a practice that we begrudgingly embrace to achieve a modicum of success with our aquariums. I mean- it must be easier to dose something or to tweak our controller.. anything but the siphon hose!

However, the benefits of regular, frequent water changes are quickly apparent, and the cost of not doing them is equally motivating (nuisance algae growth, poor livestock health and long term water quality issues). If you put it into perspective, you’ll soon realize that performing regular water changes on your system will pay great dividends in better health for your aquarium!

Today’s reef aquariums often contain substantially larger amounts of biomass than in decades past. Efficient filtration systems, protein skimming, “miracle” additives and chemical filtration media have arguably enabled today’s reef hobbyist to keep more animals in a given system than ever before. Of course, this is not always a good thing! These technological “crutches” can foster a false sense of comfort and lead to relaxed husbandry efforts by the hobbyist.

Many of us hobbyists, both new and experienced, seem to be easily charmed by manufacturer’s claims that you’ll be able to get by with fewer, or even no water changes in your aquarium by using their “magic elixir” or hardware. In reality, heavy bioloads necessitate more aggressive husbandry practices to process dissolved organics. The old environmental adage that “The solution to pollution is dilution” is more important than ever before.

How much to change depends on a number of factors. You can take into account the various methods that you a re using to assist with nutrient export in your system already. Aggressive protein skimming, use of chemical filtration media (such as activated carbon), and vegetable or animal filtration (macroalgae or filter feeders in refugia) can alleviate some of the burden on water quality, reducing some of the need for massive frequent water changes. However, it’s not possible to avoid these water changes altogether. Like death, taxes, and morning breath, it’s unavoidable, kids!

Think about it. Even with a 50% monthly water change, 50% of the nutrient-laden water is still left behind in your aquarium. And the nasty stuff will continue to accumulate month after month. Am I advocating 50% monthly water changes for everyone? Of course not- it’s simply not practical for everyone. However, it is completely realistic to perform a weekly 5%-10% water change (that is- 5% to 10% of your aquarium’s water volume), or even 2%-5% twice a week! The object here is to get into the habit of making frequent small water changes, so that these organics don’t have the chance to accumulate to any great extend in the first place. When performed on a regular, frequent basis, water changes help provide the inhabitants of your closed system with a stable, consistent environment. And stability is a big key to success in the hobby!

Do you need more convincing? If you’re regularly dosing your system with “additives”, think of all of the money you’ll save by regularly exchanging some of your water with freshly-made synthetic seawater. Any decent brand of synthetic salt mix will deliver a high quality dose of the perfect balance of trace elements and compounds required to keep your animals in healthy condition. In a nutshell, freshly-made seawater replaced during water changes is THE best “additive” that you can use!

It’s no secret that lighting issues are some of the most hotly-contested topics in the hobby. It’s bitterly ironic to see hobbyists spend small fortunes (or large ones!) on sophisticated lighting systems, only to ignore the fact that poor water clarity is working against them and their photosynthetic invertebrates. To make matters worse, the discoloration need not be great to create a significant reduction of light in the water, Light penetration is greatly aided by regularly exchanging water. Don’t take my word for it, though; take the time to notice the difference in color between new synthetic seawater versus aged water from the aquarium when compared side-by-side in clean white plastic buckets.

I wonder which water is the new water?

“How much do I really have to change- and how often?”

Less than you might think, but more often than you’d assume! A weekly 10% water change is a manageable, easily-accomplished practice that will yield consistent water quality and provide a healthy, stable environment for your animals.

Better still would be two 5% water changes a week. Before you get ready to pelt me with calcium reactor media for recommending such a practice, think about it for a few seconds: Five percent of your aquarium’s water volume is really not that much. We’re only talking about 5 gallons in a 100 gallon aquarium, or just 2.5 gallons in a 50 gallon aquarium, performed on say, Wednesday and Sunday. By following such a routine, your aquarium’s inhabitants are never more than 3 days away from the next water exchange. Interesting concept, isn’t it?

Water changes, regardless of how frequently they are performed, need not be complicated procedures. You can perform a meaningful and efficient water change in just a few minutes with decidedly low-tech methods. By “low-tech”, we’re talking about a flexible plastic hose, a bucket of appropriate size, and a few towels for those inevitable “accidents” that always seem to happen when water, carpet, and a watchful spouse are in the equation!

Obviously, when performing a water change, you’ll need to utilize high quality source water and a reputable synthetic salt mix. As with all incoming water, the water that you will be utilizing needs to be aerated and warmed to the appropriate temperature at least one day in advance. Utilizing untreated tap water is a bad practice, and I am shocked to find that some hobbyists still use untreated tap water for their systems. Unless you have an excellent quality of source water (like a well), you’re much better off using some form of water pre-treatment (like reverse osmosis or deionization).

Also, it should go without saying that the specific gravity of the new water should be adjusted to match that of the aquarium water. It should, but I can’t tell you the number of times I’ve worked with hobbyists who suffer “anomalous” livestock losses after water changes, and a quick test of the new water indicated parameters which varied wildly from those in the system .

Always use an accurate hydrometer or refractometer to measure the specific gravity of your prepared saltwater before use. Never underestimate the caustic nature of newly-mixed synthetic seawater. Chemical reactions in dissolving synthetic salt mixes can take some time to complete. Ideally, you’ll prepare your seawater several hours or days in advance of use in your aquarium.

While you’re making those more frequent water changes, you will become more intimately involved with your aquarium. You’ll see what is really going on in your system, and be able to take corrective measures promptly if required. It also cannot hurt to clean or replace mechanical or chemical filtration media during these changes, which will further assist in maintaining good water quality.

In relatively little time, you’ll begin to notice some wonderful effects on your system. Fishes will display brighter colors, feed better, and be more alert and active than ever before. Corals and invertebrates will display significant improvement in color, growth and recovery following imposed propagation techniques. Nuisance algae will begin to subside, and your aquarium will take on a visual clarity that will astound you. Follow the simple practice of regular water exchanges and you will be well on the way to your own gorgeous reef aquarium that will make fellow hobbyists wonder how you did it!

'Til next time…

Stay Wet
 
me too, but no different than every Sat. I am actually toying with the idea of doing weekly 30% changes, doubling what my tank and inhabitants are accustom to. The first was last week and I am thinking I will keep it up at 30 for a while. Any cause for concern?
 
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