fresh water dip for possible brook.
- Thread starter CHSUB
- Start date
Newsmyrna80
Active member
FW dips will relieve the symptoms but is not a cure. If you don't have formalin on hand the dips will buy him some time. I would put the fish into a new tank after each dip as to not reinfect it. If you have never done a FW dip they are relatively easy. Most important thing is to fully aerate the water. Be sure the temp and pH match the water the fish is in now. It is normal for the fish to lie on its' side in the dip but if it starts to flip out and jump around take it out.
As I'm sure you know Brook is a fast killer so the sooner you can do the dip the better.
As I'm sure you know Brook is a fast killer so the sooner you can do the dip the better.
CHSUB
"Certified Hobby Expert"
what is used; ro/di or dechlorinated tap water. ro/di seems harser but not sure? i don't know if it has brook, only know he has a white film on his body. i have had him almost 2 weeks, and only noticed the film under bright lights.
ThRoewer
New member
Dechlorinated tap water would be fine but I normally use RO water. If you have a drinking water filter system in your kitchen - that should do fine too.
More important is that you match the temperature and ideally pH too, though the latter is probably overrated since RO water has next to no buffer capacity and the fish doesn't stay long enough in the water to be affected by small pH swings.
More important is that you match the temperature and ideally pH too, though the latter is probably overrated since RO water has next to no buffer capacity and the fish doesn't stay long enough in the water to be affected by small pH swings.
Newsmyrna80
Active member
You can use dechlorinated water but I use RO/DI. Temperature and aeration are the most important thing. The pH of RO/DI is typically around 7.4 or so. It's not critical to buffer exactly but I would get it close to their current environment.
Newsmyrna80
Active member
Can you post a pic?
CHSUB
"Certified Hobby Expert"
thanks, i was not sure if ro was used vs. ro/di(never FWD before). i will use ro/di. i can only see the film under very strong light, not visible with pic. blenny is acting very normal and i have no experience with brook, so i'm not sure at this point?
here is a pics, blenny is on bottem of tank. been with foxface for 2 weeks. both acting normal. no visible film on foxface, i think?
it seems there is very little info available on brook, i have read FWD will remove the parasites but not cure it? how is that possible, if i do repeated FWD the parasites will be removed, if it has brook?
[URL=http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/CHSUB/media/image.jpg1_zpsmbngwuv0.jpg.html]
[/URL]
ThRoewer
New member
Brook usually shows initially with slight whitish patches that spread and at later stages appear like peeling skin that hangs off in strings. At advanced stages you will likely also see deterioration of the fins. Behavioral indicators are primarily rapid breathing, clamping fins, apathy and erratic movements.
Here are a few articles about Brooklynella:
1. Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum
2. http://www.chucksaddiction.com/brookynella.html
3. Identifying Parasitic Diseases in Marine Aquarium Fish - A Hobbyist's Guide to Identifying Some Common Marine Aquarium Parasites
The most effective treatment I found are formalin dips. Often one dip and afterwards transfer to a clean tank is enough to safe fish with early to clearly visible stages but if you want to make sure it is completely gone do dips every 3 days for 2 weeks, ideally done in combination with TTM to prevent reinfection (see 3. article).
The articles describe other treatments but I have so far only used freshwater dips and formalin and of those two formalin is clearly the more effective and reliable. I feel it is also easier on the fish - a week ago I did a prophylactic dip with a less than 2 inch baby marine betta and it didn't show the slightest sign of distress.
Here are a few articles about Brooklynella:
1. Brooklynella hostilis and Uronema marinum
2. http://www.chucksaddiction.com/brookynella.html
3. Identifying Parasitic Diseases in Marine Aquarium Fish - A Hobbyist's Guide to Identifying Some Common Marine Aquarium Parasites
The most effective treatment I found are formalin dips. Often one dip and afterwards transfer to a clean tank is enough to safe fish with early to clearly visible stages but if you want to make sure it is completely gone do dips every 3 days for 2 weeks, ideally done in combination with TTM to prevent reinfection (see 3. article).
The articles describe other treatments but I have so far only used freshwater dips and formalin and of those two formalin is clearly the more effective and reliable. I feel it is also easier on the fish - a week ago I did a prophylactic dip with a less than 2 inch baby marine betta and it didn't show the slightest sign of distress.
Newsmyrna80
Active member
FW dips will only knock back the parasite. In other words it will kill some of the parasites, depending on their stage of life, and will weaken others. But once the fish is put back into saltwater their continue their lifecycle. Formalin in the right dosage will kill the parasite.
How long have you noticed the film on the Blenny?
Deinonych
New member
You might be able to find it at your LFS (none of mine carry it). Amazon carries it if you can wait a few days:
http://www.amazon.com/Fish-Vet-Formalin-MS-32-oz/dp/B000O3EI2Y
Newsmyrna80
Active member
LFS may carry it. I've used Quick Cure obtained from Walmart which the fish tolerated better than straight formalin. I did 5 dips every other day. After each dip I put him in a clean QT. As in FW dips the most important thing with formalin is to fully aerate and only dip one fish at a time. Formalin depletes oxygen rather quickly.
CHSUB
"Certified Hobby Expert"
thx, i order through Pet Solutions as they ship asap.
CHSUB
"Certified Hobby Expert"
ok, i get the Formalin tomorrow. blenny is still in QT with foxface, both seem fine. Foxface is eating well; blenny eats nothing, however picks at live rock rubble I place in with them. Blenny still has whitish patches, none visible on foxface. i recieved both on 4/7 (16 days ago), notice film on 4/16 (7 days ago), fish still seems fine...is brook this slow to progress? most i've read says it's very fast to kill! i will dip fish regardless, but what are your thoughts on time frame? maybe not brook? i need to get blenny in dt, otherwise he will starve to death.
Newsmyrna80
Active member
Does the Blenny have mucus coming off him? How is his breathing? What have you tried to feed the Blenny?
Once the tell tale symptoms of Brook present (mucus) the disease is near its end stage which requires immediate treatment. To give you an idea of a timeline I once thought I was dealing with Ich due to spots on fin and body and began TT (2-3 days after spots showed up) then on the third transfer (9 days) I noticed the mucus.
CHSUB
"Certified Hobby Expert"
dip in progress.......black patch is what i suspect is brook, whitish under bright light.
http://[URL=http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/CHSUB/media/image.jpg1_zpseb7q0v6d.jpg.html]
[/URL]
http://[URL=http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/CHSUB/media/image.jpg1_zpseb7q0v6d.jpg.html]
[/URL]
Newsmyrna80
Active member
Are they patches? Does it look like skin sloughing off? Is thre trailing mucus?
CHSUB
"Certified Hobby Expert"
whitish raised patches, no trailing mucus. the patches change size and form over last 2 weeks.
Similar threads
