FTS W/spec.

Gravesj1s

New member
I changed my mine I'll post pics by tomarrow moring.Below is a listing of all info I can think of.For now:

72gal bf (2) korolia #4 powerheads,custom skimmer=asmg3,15gal selfmade sump,mag 9.5return
I use a water makeup system whitch consists of a 15gal rubbermaid from RO/DI drawn pumped into the kalkreactor whitch is gravity fed out into sump.48"4 bulb ati PM also,ball of cheato in sump.
2 zebra bar gobys
2 ocellaris clowns
2 helfrichi firefish
1 yellow watchman goby-other one passed away
2 peppermint shrimp
2 conch snails
2 brown snails
4-5 astreas
1 pink cucumber worm

corals
1 wall hammer coral(abc reefs 2 months growing steady
rest are frag size of the following
tyree sunset monti(1-1/2 years frag doubled in size
tyree setosa (abc reefs 5-6 weeks ago showing growth
1pink scroll/vase coral (abc reefs 2 weeks ago
1 red planet acro(abc reefs 1 year,died off /growing back from tiny peice
Tyree green toadstool(slight growth 1-1/2 years
1 bazooka joe chalice(rapid growth got from abc 12/20 4-5 eyed grown to 8eyes
1 red acan colony-abc reefs(1 year ago slight growth
1 rainbow acan-abc reefs (1 year ago slight growth
3 small clove polyp colonys-abc reefs(couple weeks ago
greenstarburst came with cloves
1 head (similar in size to cinammon palys)looks like an eyeball paly (abc reefs grown to 8heads(2 months
15-18 zoa & paly frags purchased 1-1/2 years ago,growth varying per sp.
give me couple minutes Ill post more info.followed by specs and tank pix
 
Temp held steady with visitherm 2 200watt heaters (79-80 degrees varified by 2 thermeters 1 in sump 1 in overflow
tds 0.00 per hanna meter
salinity 1.026 held steady (properly calibrated refactometer
Alk-8-8.5 as dkh(a closely watched parameter (api/tetra
using 2 seperate kits seems to be accurate)
I donot test any other parameter currently
Kent marine activated carbon 3"x4" bag changed biweekly(abc reefs
GFO 1 cup changed biweekly
I use reef crystals in 150 gal buckets ( abc reefs) I use a rubbermaid can in the basement plumbed to 3 stage sediment,1 micron.05 then 20,000galcl guzzler carbon .05 micron( 3 months old )
Spectrapure 98.7 membrane(2moths old final polish BRS nucleargrade resin (tds-0ppm

I fill about a 50 gal rubbermaid mix with mag 7 ,visitherm 100 watt heater to sp.gravity 1.025 for minimun24 hrs and change water weekly @ 2 intervals per week 25gal -then 25gal (trying to battle cyanobacteria)

My overflow is plumbed directly to the skimmer(dumped and neck cleaned@ 3 day intervals then mech filter swapped out cleaned after feeding or throwout 3 days to no more than 5 days and replaced.gfo and carbon then chateo and returned to tank

I upgraded my return pump mag7 to 9.5
skimmer is at its max
The chateo doesn't grow at all (tried 24hr lighting for a couple months no change
Bulbs have been replaced ATI Blue plus,ATI aquablue special,UVL 25/75 and ATI Blueplus
3 months old max.
I tried vinegar dosing recentlyI know its early yet to notice any change,changed the top layer of sand in the past 2 weeks mixed in by hand to about an inch depth.I took liverock out vinegar soak 2 days,ro rinsed and put it back in. Despite my best efforts here Its returning.I didn't realize it but I have been going at this now since fall. close to 6 months

Ive gone through 3 150 gal buckets of salt during this time.
I use ESV grade kaklwasser for all makeup water ,eveaporation ,saturated 1-1/2-2 gallons a day(we have a fireplace it evaporates on the heavy side)
Working on the pics and more specs now
 
No additives other than limewater.

Foods are nuvamax prawnrow and cyclopeeze mostly ,was everyday cut down to everyother day,alternated once a week mysis shrimp.
this schedule has been religiously kept up now for 2 months

I realize the tank hasn't seen the best husbandry in the past and I maynot be the most up to date in trends but I never remeber this being so hard to get rid of.
I probably wont get to the pix till tomarrow morning so is for now any thoughts?
 
another update, Mishaps, losses that would be related and how they were dealt with:

1 green bubbletip anemone died in tank about a year ago.
I frag tyree superman monti (1/2" size
I frag tyree rainbow monti (1/2" size
obviously ,as I stated (1oz)28 gram can was overfed to the tank omegaone with garlic that was prior to sept. I used a gravel vac purchased to deal with that problem. My best guess it was done over the course of a month maybe a little longer.I didn't notice it because I never use the flake stuff.

I am forunate I dont have more losses I know.It still seems like its been longer than it should be to irradicate.
Also,I have been using the gravel vac @ weekly water changes since.
 
sounds like you're on the right track. As you're probably already aware- only bad things happen quickly in a reef aquarium. The good stuff takes time.
 
Having lots of trouble with the pics,<a href="http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm255/gravesj1s/?action=view&current=013.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm255/gravesj1s/013.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><a href="http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm255/gravesj1s/?action=view&current=015.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm255/gravesj1s/015.jpg" borde<a href="http://s298.photobucket.com/albums/mm255/gravesj1s/?action=view&current=017.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i298.photobucket.com/albums/mm255/gravesj1s/017.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>r="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
 
-GARY, I got no skills with the camera at all.Trying to give you a shot of the cyano that has been the battle.I hate to give you such eyesore pics but being desciptive isn't easy.
 
Sump, with some chateo,it doesn't grow really.
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Below, the side with the heater is where chemical filtration goes ,I removed it for the shots. The water flow is setup like the baffles most use but also forces the water through carbon and gfo pretty well without a reactor.I made the sump sorta on the small side but it seems to work.Theres 3 chambers total.The middle one I just cut small section of blue filter floss as needed.
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Water makeup with aqualifter,some storage stuff

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lights off shot
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I have a love for woodworking but Ive found that doen't help with cyano.


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lights off shows the cyano better.


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Honestly, that cyano doesn't look that bad at all to me. Believe me, I've seen much worse!

I'm not familiar with Nuvamax Prawn roe, or if that would possibly cause problems with water quality.

Will your fish accept a small quality pellet food, like NLS?

I think if you keep the husbandry regimen you listed, things will correct themselves.

Oh, and I really like the aquascaping and woodwork!

:thumbsup:
 
Honestly, that cyano doesn't look that bad at all to me. Believe me, I've seen much worse!

I'm not familiar with Nuvamax Prawn roe, or if that would possibly cause problems with water quality.

Will your fish accept a small quality pellet food, like NLS?

I think if you keep the husbandry regimen you listed, things will correct themselves.

Oh, and I really like the aquascaping and woodwork!

:thumbsup:

Im not sure Im really not familiar with it but Id be willing to try it.

As for the cyano thats how it starts ,then progresses,Also, I cant quite capture it in the photos.I have been trying to read up on it and did find a paper, somewhere ....basically stating it can survive in pretty nutrient poor water.Im sorta questioning weather thats the case or the tank still needs longer to stabilize biologicaly .I really dont know.For now until someone has any other ideas Im gonna wait it out.Its going on 6 months now,very frustrating.
Thanks for your compliments and insight its helpful,been seriously question myself on this.
 
If you look at the very first fts with lights off , note the cyano towards the corners. Its to migrate from the sand upwards.
 
I've had my own personal battles w/ cyano, mainly caused by feeding too much nori and frozen foods, (not applicable in your case, I know).

I cut back on the frozen and nori to once a week. I put three sheets of nori in my homemade gutter guard nori feeders every Friday afternoon before the weekend and feed a mix of frozen foods and Coral Frenzy the day before I do a water change. Otherwise it's just pellets and a little freeze dried Cyclopeeze each day.

Regular weekly water changes that include blasting the sandbed with a turkey baster before the water change help a lot.

I still see an occasional cyano patch, but usually it's if I made it a bi-weekly water change (rather than a weekly one).

If your RO/DI is working properly, I think you should continue to stay the course. Like Gary said, nothing good happens quickly in this hobby!
 
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