Garage frag system build
- Thread starter acroman
- Start date
jimmy frag
New member
looking good. whats your plan for humidity, the garage will be soaked
That is my gen1 design for ventilation.
My thinking goes this way: the cooler air from the shaded garage gets pushed into the hotter air of the attic. (The garage has a 2' air gap at the bottom for air inlet) Since its going from cooler to hotter, the water holding capacity of the air will increase, and the positive pressure will push the air out of the roof vents.
Seems to be working, but hasn't gotten hot since, so idk for sure.
Gen 2 will be a solid piece of plywood with holes cut for the fans
Linkfalcon
New member
Get a stand alone ac setup
moatdaddy
New member
Seriously your picture are crazy different sizes! So your ATS. Have you seen the down falls of an upflow scrubber. I happen to agree with Floyd that its just not big enough and a water fall is better. Also it just plain wrong to think water volumn doesn't play a factor, you went big so your fine that part. How did I flood my screen? I run 2 exact pumps into and out of my ats bin . So if the ats starts to clog from growth, the bin will drain and my sump will overflow. I have a ball valve on the return line from the ats to the bin. If i close the valve too much my ats floods and soaks the entire full single sheet. I should probably be running 3 lights instead of two. Needless to say when this happens my tank goes a little yellow. Hard to notice until I do a water change. I love your surge device and hope it works for you just realize it may cause ats issues at some point. Also if you want a cheap wave maker check out the wp40. I know you would need 3 or 4 for your sps tanks. Can you pm me the links on the multichip lights. Why did you choose these? Have you seen sps, Lps, or softie growth results. Read a scientific study that took all the major groups, then tested them under all the different lights and halide won some, led the others. I know pacific east aquaculture prefers t5 for coloring up there stuff after they grow it, and for Lps like acans they keep the, only under t5. I wish you the best. I know I ramble but its 3 am and I wish I was fretting over my big aquaculture system again.
Sorry about the picture sizes... not sure why some resized and some didnt... probably used the wrong code.
I absolutely agree with Floyd about size - from a physics standpoint it matters... a LOT. You can model it by using classical mixing equations. Either the flow rate needs to go up, or the screen size does. Since there realistically is an upper bound for flowrate, the only other thing you can change is screen size, or number of screens (effectively doubling your screen surface, which is the same thing)
Push and pull pumps terrify me because they never both fail at once :/ Seems to be working ok for you though.
I can turn my ats on or off by stopping the foam block from letting the flapper close. I'm thinking that if it is constantly being grown with the surge i wont get the related die-off and yellowing that happens when the available co2 from the air drops.
The benefit of turning it off, and using it as just a waterfall-type is that I can then use a float switch for topoff water (the surge in the sump pretty much kills that idea)
I'll send a PM with the chip info
The colors are in the right range, and the price was decent (got a few friends together and did a bulk order) I didn't want to mess with bulb replacement, or the relatively higher power draw of the t5s. I like the dimming on the LEDs too; it gives me a lot of flexibility on what i put where.
I've seen growth in most species under the multichips, but has been personal observation vs actual literature. A lot of the MH vs LED debates ignore the color spectrum... which is a problem with experimental design due to the tight spectral bands on most LEDs. Given proper spectrum, LEDs are more efficient at producing the correct wavelengths for growth.
I have a friend in China that is checking out the Resun waver. Its a low-voltage controllable powerhead, similar to the controllable tunze ones.
I absolutely agree with Floyd about size - from a physics standpoint it matters... a LOT. You can model it by using classical mixing equations. Either the flow rate needs to go up, or the screen size does. Since there realistically is an upper bound for flowrate, the only other thing you can change is screen size, or number of screens (effectively doubling your screen surface, which is the same thing)
Push and pull pumps terrify me because they never both fail at once :/ Seems to be working ok for you though.
I can turn my ats on or off by stopping the foam block from letting the flapper close. I'm thinking that if it is constantly being grown with the surge i wont get the related die-off and yellowing that happens when the available co2 from the air drops.
The benefit of turning it off, and using it as just a waterfall-type is that I can then use a float switch for topoff water (the surge in the sump pretty much kills that idea)
I'll send a PM with the chip info
The colors are in the right range, and the price was decent (got a few friends together and did a bulk order) I didn't want to mess with bulb replacement, or the relatively higher power draw of the t5s. I like the dimming on the LEDs too; it gives me a lot of flexibility on what i put where.
I've seen growth in most species under the multichips, but has been personal observation vs actual literature. A lot of the MH vs LED debates ignore the color spectrum... which is a problem with experimental design due to the tight spectral bands on most LEDs. Given proper spectrum, LEDs are more efficient at producing the correct wavelengths for growth.
I have a friend in China that is checking out the Resun waver. Its a low-voltage controllable powerhead, similar to the controllable tunze ones.
I don't think so, but its probably not a bad idea to monitor the temp and RH. due to the increased dewpoint in the attic vs the garage, i think mold will be more likely to grow in the the garage than the attic.
http://www.sugartech.co.za/psychro/index.php
Dry bulb temp of 110 F and a RH of ~ 80% give me a dewpoint of about 103F. Increase the dry bulb to 150F (est max attic temp) and the RH drops to about 22%. Mold needs ~60% or higher RH IIRC, so i think it should be ok??
Steveb
Premium Member
Cool I live close to Houston, really just a burb of Houston and that is one of my biggest fears (humidity). I think I found the right leds based on a post you put up for me on the other thread but if don't mind if your gonna PM the LED info could you include me? Thanks and I love your setup. Keep the info coming.
moatdaddy
New member
Well I am tagging along. I plan on putting about 50k into an aquaculture outbuilding in Orlando next feb. might have to spend a lot less if these work. I will be using plywood runner sumps with PVC sheet tanks above. Needless to say your lessons learned is money saved for me!:beer::beer:
Could you post a few pics on how your ATS is dumping? 
Linkfalcon
New member
Sweet build
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