GHL Mitras Club
- Thread starter rodneyri
- Start date
AQD_ottawa
New member
drop us an email to sales@aqua-digital.com so we can help get you set up properly.
Some initial thoughts on the light unit itself, too early for a proper review on the light and its effectiveness on my tank so don’t expect any opnions on that.
+ build quality is great, its up there with my old vertex illumina
+ power chords are long and allow users to hide the ballasts even in large cabinets
+ no spotlighting or disco effect on the sand bed, the light is nice and uniform
+ small unit packs some punch, the lights are bright to the eye
- USB port on the bottom??? the cover will scratch the bottom of the unit after some use…wont effect the light out put but who wants scratches on the bottom of their nice new Mitras
- Cant program the light wirelessly from the laptop, its much more user friendly so sit back from the tank and mix the light colors than being tethered close to the tank
Unsure on;
? Lots of red light, the two reds and yellow (which appears to me more like orange)…not sure the effectiveness of this in the light spectrum. It makes a warm color if you pump them up
? software is ok to use, feels like its been designed by a developer not a user still its fairly easy to use
+ build quality is great, its up there with my old vertex illumina
+ power chords are long and allow users to hide the ballasts even in large cabinets
+ no spotlighting or disco effect on the sand bed, the light is nice and uniform
+ small unit packs some punch, the lights are bright to the eye
- USB port on the bottom??? the cover will scratch the bottom of the unit after some use…wont effect the light out put but who wants scratches on the bottom of their nice new Mitras
- Cant program the light wirelessly from the laptop, its much more user friendly so sit back from the tank and mix the light colors than being tethered close to the tank
Unsure on;
? Lots of red light, the two reds and yellow (which appears to me more like orange)…not sure the effectiveness of this in the light spectrum. It makes a warm color if you pump them up
? software is ok to use, feels like its been designed by a developer not a user still its fairly easy to use
AQD_ottawa
New member
Thanks for your great feedback its really appreciated.
The USB port is designed only for programming and does not need to always be connected, and once the wireless module comes out then it will be pretty obsolete other than firmware updates.
The info I have on the wireless system is this: There will be a connectivity box that will be radio frequency wireless from the Mitras from there the box will act as a bridge to your network. The reason to go radio from the Mitras is so everyone does not have to worry about IP settings just to program the unit. This makes it far more general user friendly.
Please keep the review coming its great to see real users comments. I am looking forward to your in tank PAR readings
The USB port is designed only for programming and does not need to always be connected, and once the wireless module comes out then it will be pretty obsolete other than firmware updates.
The info I have on the wireless system is this: There will be a connectivity box that will be radio frequency wireless from the Mitras from there the box will act as a bridge to your network. The reason to go radio from the Mitras is so everyone does not have to worry about IP settings just to program the unit. This makes it far more general user friendly.
Please keep the review coming its great to see real users comments. I am looking forward to your in tank PAR readings
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Thank you. Looks like a great light.
Rotknee
Member
Congrats Rodney!
What do you think about the software? What about how the lights dim?
What are the dimensions of your tank? I'm thinking about how I would mount the lights. The way you have yours would make for a single rail and an easier mounting to the ceiling. The other way (display facing front of tank) might work as well.
Please keep us posted on how your corals respond to the Mitras compared to the Ai Sol Blues.
Thanks for posting your thoughts.:thumbsup:
What do you think about the software? What about how the lights dim?
What are the dimensions of your tank? I'm thinking about how I would mount the lights. The way you have yours would make for a single rail and an easier mounting to the ceiling. The other way (display facing front of tank) might work as well.
Please keep us posted on how your corals respond to the Mitras compared to the Ai Sol Blues.
Thanks for posting your thoughts.:thumbsup:
aandfsoccr04
Active member
wow that tank looks clean.
BigAl2007
Active member
Matthias Gross
.Registered Member
24 hours old GHL Mitras.
Software GHL Control Center v.1.0.2.0.
Have GCC_English.dll. error so everything is in German and Engelesk can not be selected because of GCC_English.dll.
I have tried with 2 PCs with Windows 7 ultimat.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HZ2pYGDk00
What is the reason for this?
This support case is handled in our forum:
http://forum.aquariumcomputer.com/showthread.php?6020-GHL-Mitras.-Help.
don't want to handle the same case in several forums in parallel
AQD_ottawa
New member
I was told it is 140x75x55 which translates to 56" x 30" x 22"
From the looks of it, I would say that I need 2 fixtures for my 36"L x 30"W x 24"H tank build. I was hoping to get away with 1 unit.
Rodney- at what intensity are you powering your lights at?
Just want to say thanks for all of those who take the time to answer others questions.
Rodney- at what intensity are you powering your lights at?
Just want to say thanks for all of those who take the time to answer others questions.
AQD_ottawa
New member
The width as with all LED units is the conundrum. We are building a demo system right now that is 36x32x24 and will be using one lamp, this is outside the stated coverage at the bottom of the tank, but GHL always will only give accurate figures they feel are valid. We also only market to these figures, but we are interested in seeing cleints tanks that have been pushed beyond this.
A lot of it comes down to what you are wanting to keep, if you do not have SPS wall to wall you can potentially play with the configuration more.
A lot of it comes down to what you are wanting to keep, if you do not have SPS wall to wall you can potentially play with the configuration more.
Readings taken with an Apogee PAR meter, all pumps turned off in my tank. Tank had a water change yesterday. To keep the readings consistent I placed the meter's sensor in the tank and took a reading in High Efficiency mode on the Mitras then without moving the sensor changes the lights to High Output mode and took the reading. This was repeated at each level so the results are comparable with my situation.
Tank Specs; 140x75x55 deep (water level approx 57)
PAR readings in High Efficiency mode
240 (sandbed)
312
368
576 (water level)
PAR readings in High Output mode
340 (sandbed)
450
560
810 (water level)
Tank Specs; 140x75x55 deep (water level approx 57)
PAR readings in High Efficiency mode
240 (sandbed)
312
368
576 (water level)
PAR readings in High Output mode
340 (sandbed)
450
560
810 (water level)
rodney- could you take readings on the left fixture all the way to the left wall of your aquarium just to see what the readings are away from directly underneath the light. Or better yeat could you only turn on the middle light and read away from dead center lets say in 5 inch increments and post the reading on the sand bed. I think seeing the par readings to the left and right of dead center are valuable information for people to decide how many units they will need for their specific aquariums. Again thanks for posting this information.
