gigantea

CTaylor

Active member
Hi,

Does a gigantea carpet require a sandbed to take hold into? I have very little sand in my tank. *A hadonni does require one, right? I tried ritteri but every time I get one sent to me it's either damaged, or split in the bag, so they are already having odds against them. So I wanted to try a carpet.

But I have very little sand for one.

Thoughts?

I dont want a bubble.. last one I had wouldnt grow much, it would mainly split.. and the splits would split into little tiny ones -- though at that time I don't think the tank had the best conditions when I had very small RBTA's going on.

TY!
 
Gigantea doesn't need a sandbed. But it is a dangerous anemone for everyone other than anemonefish.
And it isn't easier than a magnifica. You need a quarantine tank and be prepared to treat it with antibiotics.
BTW, what is the status on your magnificas? Are they still alive or did you flush them?

How big is your tank and what is in it?
 
I agree with ThRoewer. Gigantea is, IMO, the hardest anemone to get acclimate to captivity. Even harder than Magnifica.
You should have QT ready and medication ready to treat at first sign of trouble. Make sure the QT is a good stable tank that you can keep the anemone in it for long periord of time. You want best condition for him. Sub optimal condition during observation and treatment just won't do.
For rock anemone that not too difficult, you may want to look into H. crispa. They are easier, host quite a few clown fish and not as demanding.
The requirement for good QT and medication if needed is the same.


For treatment, treat at the first sign of trouble because sooner the treatment, better the outcome.
 
...
For rock anemone that not too difficult, you may want to look into H. crispa. They are easier, host quite a few clown fish and not as demanding.
...

They may not make as much obvious trouble as gigantea and magnifica in the first few weeks but I actually found H. crispa to be far more difficult long term. My suspicion is that they get just as easily sick as magnificas but don't show it as clearly. So they may be appearing healthy but are in fact not.
I just got a blue-tip crispa and this time it gets the same treatment as a gigantea.
They are also far more demanding and a bit unpredictable about their placement in the rockwork. Their desire to place their foot deep into the rocks can cause all kinds of trouble if your rock structure is just a loose pile and not cemented because if they get "scared" they may retract quickly into the rocks and bring the whole pile to collapse.
And if you have corals in your tank be prepared to lose some.
 
TY for all the quick and informative responses.. I did research and found the gigantea is dangerous to other fish, sometiems even clowns. My ritteri's I have gotten have all come in with some issue such as a large tear or dividing in transit to me. THe ritteri's in hospital did not make it. I did as Orian and ThR say. Though two things I think contributed to the ritteri's not making it. The live rock and the sebae I put in with them in middle of treatment. The water stayed much clearer after the rock was taken out. Much less if any foam also. Temp stable +/1 degree every 24 hrs. I had the power head and the air stone. Daily 75-100% water changes. Usually 100%. last week of treatment they get 250 mg daily cipro mainly at night sometimes split 125 and 125 day /night. They were doing better until the sebae was put in. And then after sebae was taken out, the live rock in there I think was the next culprit for the water quality. Well now I know better.. and I am ready for treatment when I need to next time. i found the ritts come off easy from lrock if I pull rock out of water and let ritts 'hang' a bit, but not too much, and caox off the foot base from rock.

My other choice was hadonni, but I "know" they need sand bed, right?

TY

Other than that I will try a ritteri.. ideally one from local so I can see it first. But not much chance of that. If/when I order online one again I will send the vendor my concern of passed tries, I don't tknow if that will boost chance of getting a 'perfect' one.
 
Haddoni is even more dangerous to fish than gigantea!
I would keep those only with fish that are inherently careful and unlikely to dart. And for sure no ground associated fish like jawfish, gobies, dragonettes, hawkfish, ...

If you don't want to give a mag another shot your best choice may be an LTA.
 
Haddoni is even more dangerous to fish than gigantea!
I would keep those only with fish that are inherently careful and unlikely to dart. And for sure no ground associated fish like jawfish, gobies, dragonettes, hawkfish, ...

If you don't want to give a mag another shot your best choice may be an LTA.

TY for that.. that much I didnt know. BUt I have very littls sand anyhow. So it looks like I'm defaulting to a Ritt. Im' sure I can keep one healthy, I just need a healthy one to start.. Or one that is treatable. I'm ready.

I may need to start a new post, but if anyone knows a really reliable good source for ritteri, im' all ears (eyes :) ).

TY
 
I agree with ThRoewer. Gigantea is, IMO, the hardest anemone to get acclimate to captivity. Even harder than Magnifica.
You should have QT ready and medication ready to treat at first sign of trouble. Make sure the QT is a good stable tank that you can keep the anemone in it for long periord of time. You want best condition for him. Sub optimal condition during observation and treatment just won't do.
For rock anemone that not too difficult, you may want to look into H. crispa. They are easier, host quite a few clown fish and not as demanding.
The requirement for good QT and medication if needed is the same.


For treatment, treat at the first sign of trouble because sooner the treatment, better the outcome.


TY Orion for that.
**I have very little sand for the sebae. Do you think I can find him a happy spot on rocks?
I do like sebae... And I would try one (again).. But I have very iittle sand to work with.
LOTSA ROCKS :)

TY!
 
... if anyone knows a really reliable good source for ritteri, im' all ears (eyes :) ).

TY

Me too!
I still need one that isn't bleached to get my bleached mag reinfected with Zooxanthellae. So far all attempts with other donors (Xenia, Anthelia, haddoni, BTA) have failed. If my new crispa is healthy I'll try that one as well.
 
Me too!
I still need one that isn't bleached to get my bleached mag reinfected with Zooxanthellae. So far all attempts with other donors (Xenia, Anthelia, haddoni, BTA) have failed. If my new crispa is healthy I'll try that one as well.

Please share source when you find :)
 
Iโ€™ve had very good luck with gigs as far as fish go. Never lost a fish to one aside from a blotched anthias that got chased into it by another blotched.
Once you get past the initial acclimation/infection they are pretty bullet proof. Same thing with Magnificaโ€™s in my experience.
 
...
Once you get past the initial acclimation/infection they are pretty bullet proof. Same thing with Magnifica's in my experience.
That's my experience with them as well. I think that their difficulty rating comes to a large part from the fact that they come in sick quite often.
I had far less long term success with crispa.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk
 
When was that? The last ones I saw were bleached.

I saw three batches come in. Started about 8 months ago.

The first batch had two maroon base (I picked up one).

The second two batches were tan base (I passed both times).
 
I saw three batches come in. Started about 8 months ago.

The first batch had two maroon base (I picked up one).

The second two batches were tan base (I passed both times).

I think I took one of the tan. They had another one after that one but it was equally bleached and looked like it could have been sick. Still waiting for one that isn't bleached.
 

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