Glass
- Thread starter Kengar
- Start date
LOTUS50GOD
Active member
depends on a few factors
Is this a rimless tank or Eurobrace
Glass or Acrylic
How deep? What are the other dimensions?
Is this a rimless tank or Eurobrace
Glass or Acrylic
How deep? What are the other dimensions?
dlp211
New member
http://www.theaquatools.com/building-your-aquarium
This will tell you the safety factor for different dimensions.
You want a safety factor of 7.6 for rimless I believe. You would need less for eurobrace and trimmed tanks. Hopefully someone with more experience in this department will stop by.
This will tell you the safety factor for different dimensions.
You want a safety factor of 7.6 for rimless I believe. You would need less for eurobrace and trimmed tanks. Hopefully someone with more experience in this department will stop by.
Thanks for the link. As a former engineer, I'm embarrassed that I neglected to consider length, too (plate analysis), focusing instead on just the depth-generated pressure. I'm thinking 8 feet x 3 feet (front-to back) by 30 " high. Glass, as per the (truncated) title of hte post.
dave.m
Active member
A simple Google on "calculate glass thickness aquarium" brought up quite a few sites, but all of them I checked had major shortcomings, e.g. only went up to a few small sizes, failed to consider type if any of bracing, asked for height and length but failed to consider width (this is a major blunder!), didn't allow for the possibility of a single pane pressed against an opening in a wooden or concrete aquarium, etc.
It is my understanding that structural engineers have calculations and tables for various materials to determine the appropriate thickness to prevent undue deflection. You might want to consult one. It might be feasible, depending on the size of your aquarium, to compare the cost of acrylic versus glass. The thicker the glass, the greener it gets, even low-iron glass after a certain point.
You should also consider that glass and acrylic only come in certain thicknesses. Erring on the side of caution may unavoidably bump you up to a hefty price increase at the same time.
Dave.M
It is my understanding that structural engineers have calculations and tables for various materials to determine the appropriate thickness to prevent undue deflection. You might want to consult one. It might be feasible, depending on the size of your aquarium, to compare the cost of acrylic versus glass. The thicker the glass, the greener it gets, even low-iron glass after a certain point.
You should also consider that glass and acrylic only come in certain thicknesses. Erring on the side of caution may unavoidably bump you up to a hefty price increase at the same time.
Dave.M
Re acrylic, with spendign what I'm looking to spend on this project, I'd hate to pick up a piece of substrate with the algae cleaner and scratch it. Though it could be polished out more easily than glass, I'd rather reduce the risk of scratching in the first place. Also, I'm more comfortable with the fabrication requirements for glass than acrylic.
The whole reason I'm looking to construct on site is the stairs down to the finished basement won't permit me to have tank the size I want, due to the 45 degree bend at the mid-flight landing and the thought of trying to lower it down, as well as the max width of the stair passage.
For bracing, I'd rather be safe than sorry and would span top front to back at ends and one or, more likely, two locations. For that, do people use silicone to attach spanner glass panels just directly to the top edges of the glass panes? For tank of diminsions I'm considering, is 3/4 inch generally safe (yes, I know that is likely a hard questin to answer)? I'd rather pay more $ and sleep at night than pay less and stay up worrying.
The whole reason I'm looking to construct on site is the stairs down to the finished basement won't permit me to have tank the size I want, due to the 45 degree bend at the mid-flight landing and the thought of trying to lower it down, as well as the max width of the stair passage.
For bracing, I'd rather be safe than sorry and would span top front to back at ends and one or, more likely, two locations. For that, do people use silicone to attach spanner glass panels just directly to the top edges of the glass panes? For tank of diminsions I'm considering, is 3/4 inch generally safe (yes, I know that is likely a hard questin to answer)? I'd rather pay more $ and sleep at night than pay less and stay up worrying.
dave.m
Active member
People use a style nicknamed "Euro-bracing" (wonder where that came from?) where they silicone a piece at the top about 3-4" wide and the same thickness as the tank down the length and then the remaining width of the tank at the ends. You are trying to stop the glass from bowing out in the middle at the top (deflection) from the weight of the water inside. After you've got your length strengthened with the long pieces then you can add one or two braces across the top. All are of the same glass as the aquarium. All are siliconed on. Is that what you were asking?
Dave.M
Dave.M
I've always seen EuroBracing as synonymous with rimless, and without a central brace. Sounds, though, from what you say the even EB has a central brace. Re attaching it, it also sounds as if it is just secured via silicone. My large tanks have all been Oceanic tanks, with glass center brace that is attached by slicone not to the top edges of the front and rear panes but rather to the inner-facing surfaces of the front and rear panes, with top frame, too. (The brace actually pulled away on the last one, necessitating a switch-out.) Hence, my exposure to EB and slight concern from "stepping away" from the "security" of a full frame on top.
dlp211
New member
Read this build thread:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1976233
It should answer all your questions.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1976233
It should answer all your questions.
D5HP
New member
I'd go with what a professional says.
I've seen one of his tanks before and it's great.
3/4" should be fine <40".
I've seen one of his tanks before and it's great.
3/4" should be fine <40".
dlp211
New member
I tend to be risk-averse; my wife would kill me if it breaks, so I'll make it a tank!
Re the bottom bracing, is the point to tie it into the end panels, the front panel, or both?
If you are talking about the bottom eurobracing, it is designed to give the tank more rigidity and integrity.
Also if you use cross braces that are siliconed in, you should easily be able to do 1/2" glass with eurobracing.
Everyone over engineers everything because they are afraid, but 1/2" should be more then enough with euro and cross bracing. 3/4" is total overkill.
Obviously this doesn't apply if you plan to go rimless.
What did you build yours with?
dlp211
New member
I have been researching large tank builds. I currently am building a 180 which is about as big as I can run in my current residence. I plan on going to 600+ gallons once I finish college and move to where I am going to work.
That being said, I would use glass just because I am so afraid of scratches. I would eurobrace both the bottom and top and put in cross braces. For silicone I would use the Momentive RTV 103/8.
If I got up into the 1000+ gallon area, I would start looking at a plywood/fiberglass tank.
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