GOFOR'S 52" X 36" X 26" CDA Peninsula & SoCal Tank Room Build
- Thread starter gofor100
- Start date
gofor100
New member
Thanks!
Yup! I used one piece of foundation Marco Rock per pillar, and then I used acrylic rods and some of their E-marco mortar to make sure each structure was stable. Worked out pretty well.
gofor100
New member
I actually built the structures and then let the rock cycle in several brute containers. So after they were in the brute for about 3 months, they were only out of the water for only a minute or so while I transported from the brute container to the DT.
acesq
Premium Member
You're off to a great start. Well planned and built!
Looking forward to seeing how you light it and whether you have a hood. They are great for noise reduction. My overflow is the loudest part of my tank unless I have it tuned so there is very little drop from the tank into the overflow. After that, the Radion fans can be heard when they are going full bore.
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Looking forward to seeing how you light it and whether you have a hood. They are great for noise reduction. My overflow is the loudest part of my tank unless I have it tuned so there is very little drop from the tank into the overflow. After that, the Radion fans can be heard when they are going full bore.
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solitude127
Proud user of IO Salt!
For you MP40s, if they're newer, they should be able to connect to Mobius and no need for a ReefLink anymore.
gofor100
New member
Yeah, my overflow is pretty well tuned in, especially since I have the COR15 hooked up into one of the returns. If I ever start hearing a trickle, I can just go on my phone and increase/decrease the COR15 by a % or two and take care of it.
Lighting will be interesting... I've got a plan right now and think I'll just be suspending my lighting option over the tank with a hanging kit. I'll be talking about my lighting option pretty soon.
gofor100
New member
Thanks man!
gofor100
New member
True... although, I had bought the Reeflink a while back in the planning of the build and may still use it for some other legacy Ecotech equipment I have (not sure when the date is where the chip has been installed). Also, I've heard some people having issues with Mobius, but I'll see how everything plays out.
Not the first (or last) thing in this hobby I've wasted money on though if I don't end up using it. :lmao:
Last edited:
gofor100
New member
That stand is amazing, and I love your custom dimensions! Cracked me up that it fit all those kids inside
Thanks!
Hahaha... yeah, I was planning on getting in myself, but they are much cuter.
wishntoboutside
professional snow flake
great build you have going so far. going to be a beautiful addition to the home.
gofor100
New member
Thanks! You definitely can't miss it when you walk in the front door!
gofor100
New member
TEMPERATURE CONTROL
While I live only about 15-20 minutes from the beach, it still gets pretty hot where I live at times (hitting 100+ degrees just a few weeks ago) and will dip as low as the high 30's a few nights during the winter. So, just in case, I wanted to make sure my tank would be taken care of regardless of the weather.
Heating: I will be running two 600-watt BRS Titanium Heaters with their own controllers. Since they independently should be able to handle my tank, one will be the main heater, set to turn on at a temperature of approximately 76 and off at a temperature of approximately 77, and the other heater will purely be used as a back-up, and set to turn on at 75 and off at 76. Both will be plugged into the APEX which will have ultimate control and shut off both if the tank reaches 78.
Cooling: This is obviously more of a concern for me, but I think that without a canopy and not running Metal Halides, I should be in pretty good shape. In fact, even when it was over 100 degrees a few weeks ago, the tank was still just hovering around 78 degrees without any additional cooling (aside from our A/C). Just in case the $h!t hits the fan though and my A/C breaks in the middle of a heat wave or something, I wanted a back-up plan, so I'll also run with the following equipment.
> Plan A: Sunlight Supply Air King Fan and Vents in Sump Shed"¦ on those hot days where we're not running the A/C while we're away, I figured I would start with some evaporative cooling in the sump shed using the Air King Fan/Ventilation. This will be set to come on if the tank gets to 79 or above.
> Plan B: JBJ Arctica Chiller 1/5 HP"¦ if it gets really hot, then worst case, I'll have this plumbed into the tank on the manifold and will set it to turn on if the tank ever gets to 79.5 degrees.
While I live only about 15-20 minutes from the beach, it still gets pretty hot where I live at times (hitting 100+ degrees just a few weeks ago) and will dip as low as the high 30's a few nights during the winter. So, just in case, I wanted to make sure my tank would be taken care of regardless of the weather.
Heating: I will be running two 600-watt BRS Titanium Heaters with their own controllers. Since they independently should be able to handle my tank, one will be the main heater, set to turn on at a temperature of approximately 76 and off at a temperature of approximately 77, and the other heater will purely be used as a back-up, and set to turn on at 75 and off at 76. Both will be plugged into the APEX which will have ultimate control and shut off both if the tank reaches 78.
Cooling: This is obviously more of a concern for me, but I think that without a canopy and not running Metal Halides, I should be in pretty good shape. In fact, even when it was over 100 degrees a few weeks ago, the tank was still just hovering around 78 degrees without any additional cooling (aside from our A/C). Just in case the $h!t hits the fan though and my A/C breaks in the middle of a heat wave or something, I wanted a back-up plan, so I'll also run with the following equipment.
> Plan A: Sunlight Supply Air King Fan and Vents in Sump Shed"¦ on those hot days where we're not running the A/C while we're away, I figured I would start with some evaporative cooling in the sump shed using the Air King Fan/Ventilation. This will be set to come on if the tank gets to 79 or above.
> Plan B: JBJ Arctica Chiller 1/5 HP"¦ if it gets really hot, then worst case, I'll have this plumbed into the tank on the manifold and will set it to turn on if the tank ever gets to 79.5 degrees.
gofor100
New member
LIGHTING
This was another tough decision"¦ back in the day, I ran with Metal Halide and supplemented with T-5's, but with energy costs the way they are going in Southern California (I live in one of the more expensive areas for energy in the country with SDG&E as my utility provider) and the controllability you have with LED's, it seemed like it made too much sense NOT to go with some form of LED lighting option.
So, then it became a decision of whether I wanted to go with only LED or a hybrid option of LED and T-5. I did quite a bit of research on this, and it seems like the safest bet on making sure you have enough coverage/spread on such a wide tank without shadowing after the SPS frags have grown into SPS colonies is either a car downpayment's worth of LED's or a hybrid of LED's and T-5. I took the more cost effective approach here and decided to go with the hybrid option.
> LED Option: When first trying to make this decision, I narrowed my options to either the Ecotech Radions G4 XR30 Pro (the G5's weren't out when I was considering this) or Kessil A360X. Honestly, I was kind of leaning towards the Kessils until the Ecotech Radion G4 sale popped up and I couldn't pass up the deal. So, I scooped up 2 XR30 Pro units to pair with the 4-bulb hybrid T-5 fixture.
> T-5 Hybrid Fixture: The choice here was mostly about aesthetics since I planned to simply mount the fixture above the tank without a canopy. Initially, I was looking at the Geisemann Stellar fixture since the fixture I chose NEEDED to only have the power cord(s) come out of one end (since this is a peninsula style) and the standard Aquatic Life hybrid fixtures have the power cords coming out of both ends (although you can turn one around). But then I came across a deal for the Dimmable Aquatic Life T-5 fixture and went with that one. Only one power cord coming from one end AND looks a bit sleeker than the other hybrid fixtures I was looking at.
Future Expansion
Depending on the PAR readings I get on the current set-up, I might have to expand the spread of the unit and/or add some more power.
> Expanding the spread: for this I might consider attaching some Reef Brite 50/50 or Actinic XHO LED strip lights (attached to the outside of the Aquatic Life T-5 Fixture) if I find the perimeter of the tank is being underlit.
> Adding more power: for this I might consider adding another Ecotech LED fixture (maybe a G4 if I find a good deal, but more likely a G5 XR15 Pro).
This was another tough decision"¦ back in the day, I ran with Metal Halide and supplemented with T-5's, but with energy costs the way they are going in Southern California (I live in one of the more expensive areas for energy in the country with SDG&E as my utility provider) and the controllability you have with LED's, it seemed like it made too much sense NOT to go with some form of LED lighting option.
So, then it became a decision of whether I wanted to go with only LED or a hybrid option of LED and T-5. I did quite a bit of research on this, and it seems like the safest bet on making sure you have enough coverage/spread on such a wide tank without shadowing after the SPS frags have grown into SPS colonies is either a car downpayment's worth of LED's or a hybrid of LED's and T-5. I took the more cost effective approach here and decided to go with the hybrid option.
> LED Option: When first trying to make this decision, I narrowed my options to either the Ecotech Radions G4 XR30 Pro (the G5's weren't out when I was considering this) or Kessil A360X. Honestly, I was kind of leaning towards the Kessils until the Ecotech Radion G4 sale popped up and I couldn't pass up the deal. So, I scooped up 2 XR30 Pro units to pair with the 4-bulb hybrid T-5 fixture.
> T-5 Hybrid Fixture: The choice here was mostly about aesthetics since I planned to simply mount the fixture above the tank without a canopy. Initially, I was looking at the Geisemann Stellar fixture since the fixture I chose NEEDED to only have the power cord(s) come out of one end (since this is a peninsula style) and the standard Aquatic Life hybrid fixtures have the power cords coming out of both ends (although you can turn one around). But then I came across a deal for the Dimmable Aquatic Life T-5 fixture and went with that one. Only one power cord coming from one end AND looks a bit sleeker than the other hybrid fixtures I was looking at.
Future Expansion
Depending on the PAR readings I get on the current set-up, I might have to expand the spread of the unit and/or add some more power.
> Expanding the spread: for this I might consider attaching some Reef Brite 50/50 or Actinic XHO LED strip lights (attached to the outside of the Aquatic Life T-5 Fixture) if I find the perimeter of the tank is being underlit.
> Adding more power: for this I might consider adding another Ecotech LED fixture (maybe a G4 if I find a good deal, but more likely a G5 XR15 Pro).
gofor100
New member
GETTING FISH!!!
So now that I have the core components for running a tank in place, I was able to get the cycle started with Brightwell's products. The ammonia went down to from about 3ppm to zero in just a matter of days, but the dang Nitrite has been over 1ppm for several days now. Just waiting for that to go down to zero before introducing my first few fish.
Speaking of fish"¦ they're officially out of quarantine and just waiting for their new home.
For this first round of fish, I wasn't expecting to get a Blue-spotted jawfish so early, but found one for a really good deal, and then brought home what my kids call the "œpretty fish" (i.e., Royal Gramma) that my kids LOVE already, and two Bangaii Cardinalfish to add a different shape/color/pattern (not sure if they'll pair up but I'm crossing my fingers).
So now that I have the core components for running a tank in place, I was able to get the cycle started with Brightwell's products. The ammonia went down to from about 3ppm to zero in just a matter of days, but the dang Nitrite has been over 1ppm for several days now. Just waiting for that to go down to zero before introducing my first few fish.
Speaking of fish"¦ they're officially out of quarantine and just waiting for their new home.
For this first round of fish, I wasn't expecting to get a Blue-spotted jawfish so early, but found one for a really good deal, and then brought home what my kids call the "œpretty fish" (i.e., Royal Gramma) that my kids LOVE already, and two Bangaii Cardinalfish to add a different shape/color/pattern (not sure if they'll pair up but I'm crossing my fingers).
gofor100
New member
FISH QUARANTINE PLAN
Something I have done in the past with success is quarantine my own fish. Except this time around, I've looked to the expert on this (Humblefish) and essentially copied the process from him. It might sound complicated if you haven't done it before, but after you go through one round of this treatment plan, you'll soon realize it isn't that bad.
The QT Process:
Step 1: Set up quarantine tank a few days in advance and seed with bacteria
My equipment list:
> 20 gallon long tank
> HOB Filter (with Bio Balls in the media compartment dosed with Dr. Tim's Bacteria a few days before getting fish)
> Air pump with air stone (I place this in the HOB filter where the Bio Balls are- it is supposed to promote the good bacterial growth to keep ammonia processed)
> Powerhead
> Heater
> Thermometer
> Cheap LED light
> PVC Fittings
> Eggcrate with screen zip-tied to the top (so the jumpers don't jump)
> Seachem Ammonia Alert badge
Step 2: Acclimate the Fish
> Bring the QT water salinity up or down to match the salinity in the LFS bag
Temp acclimate (I do this by dripping QT water into the bag, but some will just float the bag in the QT)
> For most fish, dose the Copper (I use Copper Power) to 1.0 ppm verified using Hanna Instruments High Range Copper Colorimeter)
> Note: some fish, such as wrasse and/or anthias might do better to be introduced without meds until they are feeding well, then slowly introducing Copper
Step 3: Treat the Fish
> Over the next 48 hours after introduction at 1.0 ppm, raise the copper level to 1.5 ppm. At this point, I plan to continue to raise the copper level over another 48 hours to 2.0 ppm UNLESS the fish are not eating. If they are not eating, I plan to wait for them to begin eating before continuing to raise the copper. Then, continue to raise copper at this rate until at about 2.5 ppm.
> Once at about 2.5 ppm copper level, I add both Metronidazole (MetroPlex) and Kanamycin (Kanaplex) which treat for internal parasites and external fungal/bacterial diseases
> If there are signs that the fish is actually dealing with internal parasites (e.g., white stringy poop), then I will also add MetroPlex to their food
> After about 3-5 days of treatment, I'll do a larger water change (50%+), then treat with Prazipro
> After the first Prazipro treatment, I'll do another larger water change (50%+), then I will dose another round of Prazipro
> After a full 14 days of copper levels being 2.0 ppm or greater (I test every other day to make sure of this and keep it closer to 2.5 ppm), I transfer the fish into a completely separate QT with zero meds but ONLY IF the fish are showing no signs of disease; if fish look/act normal, then after a few days of observation (a full week is recommended by Humblefish), I will place into the DT.
Something I have done in the past with success is quarantine my own fish. Except this time around, I've looked to the expert on this (Humblefish) and essentially copied the process from him. It might sound complicated if you haven't done it before, but after you go through one round of this treatment plan, you'll soon realize it isn't that bad.
The QT Process:
Step 1: Set up quarantine tank a few days in advance and seed with bacteria
My equipment list:
> 20 gallon long tank
> HOB Filter (with Bio Balls in the media compartment dosed with Dr. Tim's Bacteria a few days before getting fish)
> Air pump with air stone (I place this in the HOB filter where the Bio Balls are- it is supposed to promote the good bacterial growth to keep ammonia processed)
> Powerhead
> Heater
> Thermometer
> Cheap LED light
> PVC Fittings
> Eggcrate with screen zip-tied to the top (so the jumpers don't jump)
> Seachem Ammonia Alert badge
Step 2: Acclimate the Fish
> Bring the QT water salinity up or down to match the salinity in the LFS bag
Temp acclimate (I do this by dripping QT water into the bag, but some will just float the bag in the QT)
> For most fish, dose the Copper (I use Copper Power) to 1.0 ppm verified using Hanna Instruments High Range Copper Colorimeter)
> Note: some fish, such as wrasse and/or anthias might do better to be introduced without meds until they are feeding well, then slowly introducing Copper
Step 3: Treat the Fish
> Over the next 48 hours after introduction at 1.0 ppm, raise the copper level to 1.5 ppm. At this point, I plan to continue to raise the copper level over another 48 hours to 2.0 ppm UNLESS the fish are not eating. If they are not eating, I plan to wait for them to begin eating before continuing to raise the copper. Then, continue to raise copper at this rate until at about 2.5 ppm.
> Once at about 2.5 ppm copper level, I add both Metronidazole (MetroPlex) and Kanamycin (Kanaplex) which treat for internal parasites and external fungal/bacterial diseases
> If there are signs that the fish is actually dealing with internal parasites (e.g., white stringy poop), then I will also add MetroPlex to their food
> After about 3-5 days of treatment, I'll do a larger water change (50%+), then treat with Prazipro
> After the first Prazipro treatment, I'll do another larger water change (50%+), then I will dose another round of Prazipro
> After a full 14 days of copper levels being 2.0 ppm or greater (I test every other day to make sure of this and keep it closer to 2.5 ppm), I transfer the fish into a completely separate QT with zero meds but ONLY IF the fish are showing no signs of disease; if fish look/act normal, then after a few days of observation (a full week is recommended by Humblefish), I will place into the DT.
gofor100
New member
CORAL & INVERT QUARANTINE
While I'm on the topic of quarantine, I'm not stopping at my fish. The biggest pain the *** is having to treat parasites after they're in your DT, so I'm trying my hardest to simply never get any parasites in my DT to begin with.
Plus, with my sump outside, I need to put something in my stand that can double as a QT and a Frag tank in the future.
The plan is to quarantine everything for about 45 days so as to avoid not only coral pests, but also fish pests that may hitchhike onto the corals/inverts.
And since I plan on keeping an SPS-dominant mixed reef in the DT, I made sure my QT had enough light...
While I'm on the topic of quarantine, I'm not stopping at my fish. The biggest pain the *** is having to treat parasites after they're in your DT, so I'm trying my hardest to simply never get any parasites in my DT to begin with.
Plus, with my sump outside, I need to put something in my stand that can double as a QT and a Frag tank in the future.
The plan is to quarantine everything for about 45 days so as to avoid not only coral pests, but also fish pests that may hitchhike onto the corals/inverts.
And since I plan on keeping an SPS-dominant mixed reef in the DT, I made sure my QT had enough light...
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