Grounding probes: Hazard or helpful?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13272548#post13272548 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Harry_Fish
stugray,

How Exactly are we supposed to hook up a Gnd probe with a GFCI?
You don't hook the probe up to the GFCI. You use GFCI protected equipment in conjuction with the probe. Without the probe, the GFCI will only trip if the current can find its way to ground. It will not trip if there is no path to ground (or another circuit).

Without the probe, the GFCI will NOT trip in the following cases (to name a few):
1) A live HOT wire in the water.. no path to neutral or ground.
2) A live HOT wire in teh water, a path to neutral, no path to ground.

Placing a ground probe in the tank will cause the GFCI with the leaky equipment to trip BEFORE you or something else DOES create a path to ground :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13272829#post13272829 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Harry_Fish
The question was:

How Exactly are we supposed to hook up a Gnd probe WITH a GFCI?

"With" not "To"

I am not sure I understand the question.

You place the ground probe in the tank and you provide it a secure path to the electrical service ground. Please note: ONLY TO THE ELECTRICAL SERVICE GROUND. NEVER TO A SEPARATE GROUND ROD OR OTHER POINT!

You use the GFCI receptacles or cord and plug GFCIs as you normally would. You plug your equipment into them.

That's all :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13272852#post13272852 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Young Frankenstein
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=1463164

I am not sure what the purpose is. We know that saltwater is a better conductor than fresh water. What we do not know is the type of fault that will energize the water in a given incident.... but have fun playing with the electricity, and please be careful.
 
Hi again:
I thought i got it , but...
The ground prove I have (titanium) is fitted with a contact that only has the ground plug (not the live and earth ones). So, it supouse to be connected to the GFCI, or the contacts were the equipment are pluged AND the ground prove as well.
Or should I get rid of the contact, and fit it directly into the electrical service ground?
 
I'm having a problem with a tingle in the water that I noticed for the first time today. I unplugged each outlet one by one, and the Light fixture seems to be the one that is causing the problem. I read that you can check for "leakage" i guess by using a VOM and placing the negative lead in the water, and then using the postive lead to test each prong on the electrical cord one by one. I tried this on the submerged powerhead feeding the skimmer, and got open line reading on all 3 prongs. Next on the submerged return pump and got OL on the hot/neutral, but around 9milliohms reading on the ground prong. Lastly i tried it on the lighting fixture cords. I got 18milliohms reading on all 3 prongs, on both cords ( one that fires the t5 bulbs inside the enclosure, and the second cord that goes the the halide ballast ). Is this the right method to test my equipment, and is that reading seem like its telling me the chassis of the light enclosure is carrying the voltage to the tank water?? I'm guessing saltcreep on the legs of the light fixture is the path to the tank water? Is there any way i can investigate further to figure out exactly what part of the light fixture may have gone bad, or is causing the voltage? Ideally I'd love to fix (ground better perhaps?) the light hood, but not at the expense of safety. I'm using my old powercompact enclosure on the tank tonight, and i dont feel any tingles when i get close to the water or dip my finger in.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13273567#post13273567 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aztecaphoto
Hi again:
I thought i got it , but...
The ground prove I have (titanium) is fitted with a contact that only has the ground plug (not the live and earth ones). So, it supouse to be connected to the GFCI, or the contacts were the equipment are pluged AND the ground prove as well.
Or should I get rid of the contact, and fit it directly into the electrical service ground?

The center (round) pin on the receptacle IS the electrical service ground. YOu can plug the probe into ANY outlet (including the GFCI) to make contact with the homes equipment grounding conductor (ECG).

Hope that helps and clears up any confusion.
 
Another $0.02 from an electrical engineer (and to revive another thread where Bean is pulling out all the guns on somebody he disagrees with :) )...

Yes, always have GFCI protection -- multiple for different pieces of equipment is better. Tested (the little red "test" button) every now and then even better.

Ground rod with the GFCI adds a measure of protection to the owner, but can endanger the critters. As I posted elsewhere today, a guy in our local club lost an amazing tank because he had a GFCI/ground rod combo but the GFCI did not trip because the current flow was too low. Current below 5 mA can irritate and stress corals and fish.

Ground rod with no GFCI is worse than no ground rod and no GFCI because of the strong possibility of faults that will not draw more than 16 Amps (80% of a 20 Amp breaker) and sit cooking the tank. Dumb to have the rod without the GFCI.

If you want maximum personal protection, use the GFCI with a ground rod, but to save your critters put the ground circuit on a switch that you flip on when you reach into the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13319115#post13319115 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Runner
put the ground circuit on a switch that you flip on when you reach into the tank.

NICE!!!!!


The best of both worlds. Thanks!
 
i believe a gfci and ground probe together are essential, i have to say that runners idea about the switch is a new 1 on me, i will think about that, wont dismiss it yet:D its unusual but possibly worth discussion:)
 
The switch is a great alternative for those who are considering not running a probe with a GFCI because of the risk of that -5ma hurting livestock.. I myself would forget to flip the switch before working on the tank.. But still a great alternative for some.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13319115#post13319115 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Runner
Another $0.02 from an electrical engineer (and to revive another thread where Bean is pulling out all the guns on somebody he disagrees with :) )...

Yes, always have GFCI protection -- multiple for different pieces of equipment is better. Tested (the little red "test" button) every now and then even better.

Ground rod with the GFCI adds a measure of protection to the owner, but can endanger the critters. As I posted elsewhere today, a guy in our local club lost an amazing tank because he had a GFCI/ground rod combo but the GFCI did not trip because the current flow was too low. Current below 5 mA can irritate and stress corals and fish.

Ground rod with no GFCI is worse than no ground rod and no GFCI because of the strong possibility of faults that will not draw more than 16 Amps (80% of a 20 Amp breaker) and sit cooking the tank. Dumb to have the rod without the GFCI.

If you want maximum personal protection, use the GFCI with a ground rod, but to save your critters put the ground circuit on a switch that you flip on when you reach into the tank.

Great!
Two electrical engineers come to the same conclusions. I like it.
Thanks for that info.

I've built salt water rheostats that would draw enough to boil 30 gallons without tripping the circuit breaker.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13321119#post13321119 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kcress
Great!
Two electrical engineers come to the same conclusions. I like it.
Thanks for that info.

I think 99.9% of us have said the same thing. The only area of contention (other than the comments made by certain person) is <5mA current that can be (or is) harmful to the livestock.

I do not use a ground probe because I am not sure about the possible harm from constant low current leakage. Then again it may be moot due to the current path the the motor shafts.

I've built salt water rheostats that would draw enough to boil 30 gallons without tripping the circuit breaker.
In many cases, it could be done without the rheostat :) That is what caused most of the BS in the first place... a certain person contented that a short in the tank would trip the breaker, therefore making the ground probe perfectly suitable by itself as a safety device.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13321227#post13321227 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by BeanAnimal
I think 99.9% of us have said the same thing. The only area of contention (other than the comments made by certain person) is <5mA current that can be (or is) harmful to the livestock.

I do not use a ground probe because I am not sure about the possible harm from constant low current leakage. Then again it may be moot due to the current path the the motor shafts.

In many cases, it could be done without the rheostat :) That is what caused most of the BS in the first place... a certain person contented that a short in the tank would trip the breaker, therefore making the ground probe perfectly suitable by itself as a safety device.
Ok bean now that we are all calm lets discus this issue again in an adult like manner.
My thinking on this is the following, and please dont go back to previous threads and comments.

A) For someone to get electrical current thrue them they have to be touching a ground with one hand and a hot fish tank with the other. Or standing on concrete bare footed or something like that. Accidents can wait for years to happen so you can have a "hot fish tank" for a decade and not even know it.

1. A ground probe is better than no ground probe.
For the following reasons.
1.It will let you know theres a leakage of power in the fish tank by killing the fish and critters (worse case scenario) and I dont like this comment myself because I care and love my fish.
Think about people that have a week heart and pace makers, kids etc. Imagine what it would mean for a family to loose a loved one because of the fish tank.
2. The circuits feeding the fish tank are usually loaded to 50% at least. So the extra pull on the ground probe can trip the circuit breaker. Personally I dont like circuit breakers because most of the time dont trip. But a circuit breaker in a lets say 24hr period pulling 120% will get hot and most likely trip letting you know theres a problem.

With all that said my conclusion is have both a GFI and a Ground probe. If you cant do the $ 20 investment for your safety why spend $$$$ for corals ?

I am so done with this thread and this subject over the years that my next comment will be a simple answer without any debate " You need both" END.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13319115#post13319115 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Runner
Another $0.02 from an electrical engineer (and to revive another thread where Bean is pulling out all the guns on somebody he disagrees with :) )...

Yes, always have GFCI protection -- multiple for different pieces of equipment is better. Tested (the little red "test" button) every now and then even better.

Ground rod with the GFCI adds a measure of protection to the owner, but can endanger the critters. As I posted elsewhere today, a guy in our local club lost an amazing tank because he had a GFCI/ground rod combo but the GFCI did not trip because the current flow was too low. Current below 5 mA can irritate and stress corals and fish.

Ground rod with no GFCI is worse than no ground rod and no GFCI because of the strong possibility of faults that will not draw more than 16 Amps (80% of a 20 Amp breaker) and sit cooking the tank. Dumb to have the rod without the GFCI.

If you want maximum personal protection, use the GFCI with a ground rod, but to save your critters put the ground circuit on a switch that you flip on when you reach into the tank.
+1
 
A) For someone to get electrical current thrue them they have to be touching a ground with one hand and a hot fish tank with the other. Or standing on concrete bare footed or something like that. Accidents can wait for years to happen so you can have a "hot fish tank" for a decade and not even know it.
For the sake of clarity, nobody has said anything to the contrary. The energized tank can go unnoticed until an accident happens. That is the reason that the GFCI (with or without) the ground probe is so important. I am pretty sure you agree with that.

1. A ground probe is better than no ground probe.
For the following reasons.
1.It will let you know theres a leakage of power in the fish tank by killing the fish and critters (worse case scenario)
Maybe, maybe not. That is certainly a possibility but different current paths through the tank may or may not affect the livestock. Also consider the "new" fault that has not had time to affect the livestock in any noticeable way. It may not be noticed, but has the potential to be very deadly. So all in all, your point is not bad but when all scenarios are considered... The lone ground probe is not something I would consider as better than NO ground probe. It may take away some danger, but adds other danger.

Think about people that have a week heart and pace makers, kids etc. Imagine what it would mean for a family to loose a loved one because of the fish tank.
Exactly why the lone ground probe without GFCI is not what I would consider acceptable. That is the point many of us have been trying to make all along. Remember,

2. The circuits feeding the fish tank are usually loaded to 50% at least. So the extra pull on the ground probe can trip the circuit breaker.
This is where we do not agree at all. Deadly current levels exist at fractions of the circuit breakers trip threshold. You can in no way count on the fault or leakage current to be enough to trip the circuit breaker. Even a breaker loaded to 80% of its trip threshold leaves plenty of room for deadly currents to exist due to a fault that is not strong enough to push the breaker into overload.


Personally I dont like circuit breakers because most of the time dont trip. But a circuit breaker in a lets say 24hr period pulling 120% will get hot and most likely trip letting you know theres a problem.
But more often than not, it will be loaded (with a fault present) to less than the trip threshold. That is why the GFCI becomes so important.

With all that said my conclusion is have both a GFI and a Ground probe. If you cant do the $ 20 investment for your safety why spend $$$$ for corals ?
Yes, we have all been in agreement over that point.

I am so done with this thread and this subject over the years that my next comment will be a simple answer without any debate " You need both" END.
Or at the least GFCI protection.


Now that we got that out of the road:
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13321533#post13321533 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Young Frankenstein

Ok bean now that we are all calm lets discus this issue again in an adult like manner.
I am going to kindly point out that I have been calm all along. Make no mistake Steve, I am not at all pleased about the insults and flat out contempt directed towards me (and other well informed, well intentioned people), let alone that outright dishonesty displayed over the last several days. I am glad you came back to the thread in an effort to correct the tone, but I honestly wish you would have taken the high road from the getgo instead of 3 days later. I certainly hope that future discussions do not follow the same pattern.

Take care... and good luck with your NW project. It looks interesting, to say the least.
 
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