Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

ich Question

ich Question

I treated several fish ( one by one) that were in an ich infested tank with TTM + prazipro
Then I placed them in an observation tank (OT)
the last one I treated was a Hippo tang and when I moved it to the OT a kole eye tang that was in the OT started attacking him, I moved the pvc fittings and placed another pvc elbow so prevent fights. After 2 days I noticed some round stains in the skin of the hippo tang like it was the mouth of the kole eye so I placed a plastic grill to separate the OT in two and prevent any more attacks. The marks in the skin of Hippo are smaller now here is a photo

all other fish look fine and I do not need the obvious signs of ich in the Hippo, like scratching, the salt grains nor heavy breathing

can someone help me confirm it is not ich??
thanks
hippo tang 2.jpg
 
Looking for a bit of advice. Qting two separate tanks, a 40 and 55gal. They are being set up tomorrow, one is for CUC and corals, the other is awaiting fish to do TTM first. Fish, coral, and CUC will be here friday. Could I seed the tank for coral n CUC with a piece of live rock from lfs? Im guessing theh would have some kind of pest but since Im qting anyways for 72 days would the adding live rock help avoid fluctuations in parameters? Since it is a coral qt that would be unfortunate. For the fish qt, I plan to use sponge filters to help. Really just trying to figure out how not to kill corals without biological filter. My DT is cycling so it would be pointless to use anything from there to gain biological filtration, as it is trying to do that itself. Any ideas?
 
What I would do is have a fully cycle quarantine tank for corals and inverts. Let them sit fishless for 72 days then transfer to display tank. I wouldn't start a quarantine tank without it being fully cycle. You can get away with for fish since its Ttm but for corals I would cycle the tank first. Take your time is a long ways to the finish line. I started my new tank build in January and right now all I have in it is rocks and fish. I am going stock up all my fish I wanted them slowly start quarantining corals. Nothing good comes from rushing off shortcuts. Just my opinion.
 
Yes you are correct on all fronts. Patience... Gotta read up on that as well! Overall, I am going to have to go with what Ive got. Corals are on the way, I added them to my shopping cart to get free shipping for the first two fish for qt. Didnt need anything else, they are zoanthids only though so they can tolerate some poor water quality. Thanks for the help.
 
I've got an established 130 gallon reef but I'm planning on buying 6-10 fish over the next several months so I'm setting up a 20L quarantine tank and have a couple questions:

1) I bought a pump driven foam filter and placed it in my sump today. How long does it need to be in there before I can start the quarantine tank with it?

2) I noticed that I have my display tank's return pump sitting on a 5"x5" foam pad. Will this foam pad have a sufficient amount of bacteria on it to start my quarantine tank without a cycle? Basically I want to see if I can start the quarantine tank without having to wait for the sponge filter to finish seeding.

3) I'm reading a lot of people medicate the fish they quarantine whether or not they notice signs of disease. Others don't. Is it okay to simply observe the new fish in the QT for say 4 weeks and add it to the display if there has been no sickness?

4) If the fish is sick I medicate with Copper or Prazipro for a couple of weeks. If I don't have a second QT tank, is it okay to simply reduce the levels of copper with carbon and water changes and keep the fish in the same tank QT for another 4 weeks before moving to the display? One QT tank is the best I can do.
 
ReefTron5000 said:
I've got an established 130 gallon reef but I'm planning on buying 6-10 fish over the next several months so I'm setting up a 20L quarantine tank and have a couple questions:

1) I bought a pump driven foam filter and placed it in my sump today. How long does it need to be in there before I can start the quarantine tank with it?

2) I noticed that I have my display tank's return pump sitting on a 5"x5" foam pad. Will this foam pad have a sufficient amount of bacteria on it to start my quarantine tank without a cycle? Basically I want to see if I can start the quarantine tank without having to wait for the sponge filter to finish seeding.

3) I'm reading a lot of people medicate the fish they quarantine whether or not they notice signs of disease. Others don't. Is it okay to simply observe the new fish in the QT for say 4 weeks and add it to the display if there has been no sickness?

4) If the fish is sick I medicate with Copper or Prazipro for a couple of weeks. If I don't have a second QT tank, is it okay to simply reduce the levels of copper with carbon and water changes and keep the fish in the same tank QT for another 4 weeks before moving to the display? One QT tank is the best I can do.
Click to expand...

4 weeks isn't enough. Easiest, and safest thing to do to keep your display clean is, formalin bath on arrival, TTM with prazi on the 1st and 3rd transfer, observe in Qt for 4 weeks or so.
 
Hello everyone. Maybe this has been answered, maybe not. In general it concerns filter floss in quarantine. I've had some little clowns in quarantine and I've had filter floss in the HOB to maintain a bio filter and keep ammonia in check. They have seemed healthy and so I haven't used any medications of any kind. Yesterday I received 3 fish from an online vendor, and two of them are in pretty bad shape. I actually have two qt tanks, so I put the two carnivores in one qt, and I added the wrasse to the qt with the clowns in it.

I guess I'm getting ahead of myself. Two Extreme Picasso Clowns in quarantine already. 20g tank. One larger HOB filter with filter floss in it. One small powerhead. One 75W heater. A 2" piece of 45 degree PVC elbow.

Other qt has been fallow until yesterday. Pretty much identical setup as the first qt.

The three first I received yesterday were a Marine Betta, a Sargassum Angler, and a Blue Sided Fairy Wrasse.

I put the Betta and the Angler in the fallow tank, separated by eggcrate. I put the Wrasse in the tank with the clowns. I attempted to separate the clowns from the wrasse with eggcrate, but all of the fish are too small for that to work, lol.

The angler appears in perfect health. It's already eaten feeder shrimp and fish live, and feeder shrimp from a feeding stick.

The wrasse is cowering in the bottom corner of the qt, and won't move unless I prompt it to move somehow.

The Betta is doing even worse. It's basically staying in a head down vertical position. It's fins are pulled in, it has a string of white lumpy poo stuck to it's anus, and it has a section along one flank where it's missing scales.

I think most of the problem is ammonia poisoning. The fish were delivered 32 hours late (damn you fedex) and so obviously were in transit a lot longer than they should've been. I drip acclimated them over 2 hours, with methylene blue and stress coat in the water.

Anyway, because of the poo, the fins, and the scales, I'm concerned about internal and external parasites. I just placed a large order for a medicine cabinet stockpile, but it hasn't arrived yet, so I ran to the store and picked up some API General Cure. I dosed both tanks. Am I able to run filter floss in those HOB's, or do i need to remove it and use Prime/WC's to control ammonia?

thank you!
 
alexkharden said:
Hello everyone. Maybe this has been answered, maybe not. In general it concerns filter floss in quarantine. I've had some little clowns in quarantine and I've had filter floss in the HOB to maintain a bio filter and keep ammonia in check. They have seemed healthy and so I haven't used any medications of any kind. Yesterday I received 3 fish from an online vendor, and two of them are in pretty bad shape. I actually have two qt tanks, so I put the two carnivores in one qt, and I added the wrasse to the qt with the clowns in it.

I guess I'm getting ahead of myself. Two Extreme Picasso Clowns in quarantine already. 20g tank. One larger HOB filter with filter floss in it. One small powerhead. One 75W heater. A 2" piece of 45 degree PVC elbow.

Other qt has been fallow until yesterday. Pretty much identical setup as the first qt.

The three first I received yesterday were a Marine Betta, a Sargassum Angler, and a Blue Sided Fairy Wrasse.

I put the Betta and the Angler in the fallow tank, separated by eggcrate. I put the Wrasse in the tank with the clowns. I attempted to separate the clowns from the wrasse with eggcrate, but all of the fish are too small for that to work, lol.

The angler appears in perfect health. It's already eaten feeder shrimp and fish live, and feeder shrimp from a feeding stick.

The wrasse is cowering in the bottom corner of the qt, and won't move unless I prompt it to move somehow.

The Betta is doing even worse. It's basically staying in a head down vertical position. It's fins are pulled in, it has a string of white lumpy poo stuck to it's anus, and it has a section along one flank where it's missing scales.

I think most of the problem is ammonia poisoning. The fish were delivered 32 hours late (damn you fedex) and so obviously were in transit a lot longer than they should've been. I drip acclimated them over 2 hours, with methylene blue and stress coat in the water.

Anyway, because of the poo, the fins, and the scales, I'm concerned about internal and external parasites. I just placed a large order for a medicine cabinet stockpile, but it hasn't arrived yet, so I ran to the store and picked up some API General Cure. I dosed both tanks. Am I able to run filter floss in those HOB's, or do i need to remove it and use Prime/WC's to control ammonia?

thank you!
Click to expand...

Pretty big mistake to add the wrasse that you said was in bad shape to the tank with your clowns. best thing to do for now is to keep the water parameters perfect and hope they recover from the shipping. Keep up with waterchanges to keep ammonia and nitrate away.
 
No where else for him to go. The clowns are still too small for the dt, and the wrasse is too small not to end up in the menu in the carnivore qt.

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Just start the qt time over for the clowns and hope you get lucky I guess. When your meds come I'd do a formalin bath, prazi pro treatment and TTM to make sure they don't have Ich.
 
Oh, their quarantine is far from over, lol. They need a lot more size before they can be competitive in the dt.

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So much good info in this post. Thank you! I am just getting back into the hobby after 14 years away. I never had a qt tank, so this is all new to me!
 
Hello..i setup an emergency hospital tank after loosing 3 healthy fishes that i owned for almost 2 years..i believe they have velvet...slimy coat with white dots all over..DT is a 90 g with sump.<br />
<br />
I have 3 clowns, 2 tangs, 1 lawnmower blenny that survived and are now in a 29 g hospital tank. I started today treating with cupramine. Im currently at 0.25 mg/l concentration and plan in raising it to 0.50 mg/l in two days. As of right now, the blenny and yellow tang dont seem affected by the disease..but the clowns and the hyppo tang look bad...the transfer in the HT went well and they have been in medication for about 5 hours and didnt die.<br />
<br />
So here is my plan and questions....i plan on running cupramine for 4 weeks at the full concentration then bring the copper to 0 with carbon/WC/neutralizer then keep fish there to let the DT tank run fallow for 12 weeks...i bought prazipro as well and plan on using it after copper. I have been reefing for almost 2 years and bought a used setup, i have all the same fish since beggining so never had to treat fishes bfr...i recently changed my live rock as i was infested with mush and bought live rock from a really clean setup..i think the stress of changing the rock caused the outbreak on my fishes and either ich or velvet which was dormant just wiped some if my fishes....<br />
<br />
b097506ce83cd2658958f776fdc50e3b.jpg
<br />
<br />
Questions: <br />
<br />
1-Since i set up urgently the 29g, its not cycled..i used water from my DT to fill it up while doing a water change...How often and when should i do water changes in the HT (i have one of the sticky thing to monitor ammonia)<br />
<br />
2-Since my DT is obviously infested with parasites, is it a good idea to take water from it when i change water of my HT? Since i add cupramine to 0.5mg/l in HT will it kill the parasites right away in the "new" water from the DT or will it lower the meds efficiency?<br />
<br />
3-is it even possible to go 12 weeks in an uncycled HT? Will i have to do daily WC? <br />
<br />
4-is my plan good? Any inputs?<br />
<br />
Crappy pics but you can see dotting and pale colour on my clowns
6804e4a4857808ba7339ce0efd07518e.jpg
<br />
<br />
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Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

You will need to do lots of water change. Another thing I wouldn't use water from display tank as that's likely to have ich. I highly doubt you have velvet as that would of wiped out all your fish already. I would monitor the ammonia level. Change water frequently. You could also get bottle bacteria to help speed up the cycling of the hospital tank. Hope that helps.


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