Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).

Qt question

Qt question

I set up a qt tank last weekend the ammonia is there and high haha but this is no nitrites how long should it take .
It is a 10 gallon with hob if liter and air stone with heater set at 80. The bio wheel was new.
 
I set up a qt tank last weekend the ammonia is there and high haha but this is no nitrites how long should it take .
It is a 10 gallon with hob if liter and air stone with heater set at 80. The bio wheel was new.

ammonia will last about 2 weeks and Nitrites about twice as long and whole process anywhere from 4-8 weeks with many variable factors involved.
if you started the cycle by introducing a shrimp i would take it out now.
Good Luck
 
New fish

New fish

When adding new fish just bought to a qt should i med with copper or just watch then for a few weeks. I have read alot of post but it seems like people use copper for treatment on sick fish...are people using is on the new fish as well..? Thanks
 
Hi Kona26,
I recommend observation on all fish with prazipro treatment.
If a disease occurs then treat accordingly.
I do recommend to treat all TANG species with either copper or hyposalinity no matter as they are known carrier of ich.
Hope it answers your question.
 
Hey Mike. Thanks for all the advice. I have my emergency QT up and running. I swung by our version of Petco here in Canada and picked up a Fluval 55 gallon starter kit. Was a pretty good deal. 48"x12"x20". Comes with a nice hood, LED strip lighting, Fluval HOB C4 filter and a net. Cool.
It is now full of water which is at 1.009 and 81f. All of my sick fish are comfy and enjoying the fact that I have not chased them at all today. I conversed with dkeller_nc and discussed the LR in the tank. I have decided to put some in without sand. I have 3 large pieces in there and they are much happier with that.

I will never ever not QT for a full 10 weeks again.

We decided to buy the 48" long so that when putting new friends in it there is more room to swim. I know my Yellow Tang (Johnny Bravo) loves the room.

People, please don't take short cuts! It will get you eventually.
 
Hi Cozwey
yes i saw ur discussion on LR in QT, i am not a big advocate of that but in hyposalinity i dont see no harm either, If it was being treated with copper it would strongly advise against. Also please do not mix that rock back in with DT. I play very very safe and i do not like to cross contaminate.
Thanks for addressing the issue " People please dont take short cuts."
 
First off thanks for the original post but I do have some questions. I imagine that they were more than likely answered somewhere within the 54 pages of this post - and I'll be honest - I really don't feel like reading through ALL of it. I am currently in the process of cycling my 75 gallon DT. I have a spare 10g that I plan to use for my emergency QT. I also have a spare biowheel filter. I'll have to get another heater and powerhead(no biggie). I just want to make sure I understand everything fully before I jump in.

1). Is 10g big enough? I don't plan on getting any HUGE fish. Clowns, gobies, and the largest a Kole tang, everything else will be smaller.
2). Should I just use some filter floss for the filter or do I need anything else?
3). What is the recommended quarantine time? I'm pretty sure my LFS quarantines their fish before going on display. They are incredibly reputable. I'll be sure to double check tho too.
4). What medications should I have on hand? I see copper is an option to treat ICH and I've also seen many posts containing prazipro... what is this?
5). Are lights needed for QT? I've seen people run and not run lights
6). I don't need to quarantine inverts, correct?
7). What is a good recommend test kit. I have red sea for nitrate and phosphate but an API for Ammonia, ph, and nitrite.. and I don't really like it.

I think that is all my questions. Sorry for so many.

Thanks!
 
First off thanks for the original post but I do have some questions. I imagine that they were more than likely answered somewhere within the 54 pages of this post - and I'll be honest - I really don't feel like reading through ALL of it. I am currently in the process of cycling my 75 gallon DT. I have a spare 10g that I plan to use for my emergency QT. I also have a spare biowheel filter. I'll have to get another heater and powerhead(no biggie). I just want to make sure I understand everything fully before I jump in.

1). Is 10g big enough? I don't plan on getting any HUGE fish. Clowns, gobies, and the largest a Kole tang, everything else will be smaller.
2). Should I just use some filter floss for the filter or do I need anything else?
3). What is the recommended quarantine time? I'm pretty sure my LFS quarantines their fish before going on display. They are incredibly reputable. I'll be sure to double check tho too.
4). What medications should I have on hand? I see copper is an option to treat ICH and I've also seen many posts containing prazipro... what is this?
5). Are lights needed for QT? I've seen people run and not run lights
6). I don't need to quarantine inverts, correct?
7). What is a good recommend test kit. I have red sea for nitrate and phosphate but an API for Ammonia, ph, and nitrite.. and I don't really like it.

I think that is all my questions. Sorry for so many.

Thanks!

Hi Maggie
I am happy to see ur doing things the right way. I will try to answer your questions and see if that helps. Please feel free to ask me any concerns you may have so we can get you on the right track.

1. Yes a 10gal will be just fine for smaller fish you mentioned even with a Kole you will be just fine.

2. Filter floss works well, i prefer ceramic rings for more surface area. I place my ceramic media in a media sock and place it in the HOB. it acts are a debris filter and harbor bacteria. Floss will do the same. After i have qt'ed all fish and moved them to DT, i take the HOB apart and clean it and rinse the media bag in the qt water to free it from debris build up, try keeping it submerged mostly so u can preserve the bacteria.

3. Honestly i dont trust fish being qt at anywhere else other than in my own tanks. Most fish stores say they do qt but then again if u think about it they get fish in and out to stay in business. if they hold fish in qt for 8 weeks that means they wont be selling anything for 2 months... you do the math lol.
I recommend atleast 8-10 weeks of QT.

4. I treat all fish with prazipro. Its a medication that dont hurt anything, it kills flukes, tapeworm, flatworm, and internal parasites. Cupramine is a form of copper that rids ich. Hyposalinity also does the same. I treat all fish with prazipro 2 weeks then observe for 6 weeks. But i treat all Tangs with hypo or copper no matter what as they are known carriers of ich.

5. QT does not require lights. Infact i have a cheap fixture (under $10) on the qt that runs only 2-3 hrs a day just to feed the fish and observe them closely. You dont have to have a light if you can see and diagnose the fish of any disease.

6. No need to qt inverts, some folks do but i dont and never had any issues.

7. API for qt is fine as all your checking for is really ammonia. But i personally use Red Sea test kits.

Hope it helps.
 
Hi Maggie
I am happy to see ur doing things the right way. I will try to answer your questions and see if that helps. Please feel free to ask me any concerns you may have so we can get you on the right track.

1. Yes a 10gal will be just fine for smaller fish you mentioned even with a Kole you will be just fine.

2. Filter floss works well, i prefer ceramic rings for more surface area. I place my ceramic media in a media sock and place it in the HOB. it acts are a debris filter and harbor bacteria. Floss will do the same. After i have qt'ed all fish and moved them to DT, i take the HOB apart and clean it and rinse the media bag in the qt water to free it from debris build up, try keeping it submerged mostly so u can preserve the bacteria.

3. Honestly i dont trust fish being qt at anywhere else other than in my own tanks. Most fish stores say they do qt but then again if u think about it they get fish in and out to stay in business. if they hold fish in qt for 8 weeks that means they wont be selling anything for 2 months... you do the math lol.
I recommend atleast 8-10 weeks of QT.

4. I treat all fish with prazipro. Its a medication that dont hurt anything, it kills flukes, tapeworm, flatworm, and internal parasites. Cupramine is a form of copper that rids ich. Hyposalinity also does the same. I treat all fish with prazipro 2 weeks then observe for 6 weeks. But i treat all Tangs with hypo or copper no matter what as they are known carriers of ich.

5. QT does not require lights. Infact i have a cheap fixture (under $10) on the qt that runs only 2-3 hrs a day just to feed the fish and observe them closely. You dont have to have a light if you can see and diagnose the fish of any disease.

6. No need to qt inverts, some folks do but i dont and never had any issues.

7. API for qt is fine as all your checking for is really ammonia. But i personally use Red Sea test kits.

Hope it helps.


Thanks for all the info! For my filter since it is a HOB biowheel should I keep the wheels in or just remove them and fill it with ceramic rings?

Also, is it best to keep a bare bottom with no "decoration"(ie. LR, plastic decoration) in it?
 
Wheels are fine it has surface area for bacteria to grow on. Floss or ceramic rings either or will work inside the HOB. Yes its best to keep qt bare bottom with no decorations. Most people use pvc fittings for fish to hide behind.
 
Should you have a lid on the tank...i cut some plastic to fit over most of the top and drilled some holes in it...will this mess with the tank when med..? I did that because its in the garage and it was getting dust in it
 
Another question... sorry for some many questions.
I currently have my DT up and cycling. I plan on getting my QT up and going this weekend. Can I go ahead and get my first fish as well? I figure by the time the quarantine time is done my tank should be well along cycled if not they can stay in the QT until is finishes.
My main concern is just ammonia levels. It seems that my water just has ammonia in it(~.5ppm) at least that is what the API test says. Last thing I want to do is get my QT tank setup and get a fish or 2 in there and then they die off because of the high ammonia. I use RO/DI water, could it be that isn't doing its job properly? Any recommendations on something to either lower or that binds to the ammonia to make it less harmful?
 
Should you have a lid on the tank...i cut some plastic to fit over most of the top and drilled some holes in it...will this mess with the tank when med..? I did that because its in the garage and it was getting dust in it

there is no harm in having a lid on the tank as long as you have plenty of holes in it to have very good air exchange. you dont want heat to trap inside.
 
Another question... sorry for some many questions.
I currently have my DT up and cycling. I plan on getting my QT up and going this weekend. Can I go ahead and get my first fish as well? I figure by the time the quarantine time is done my tank should be well along cycled if not they can stay in the QT until is finishes.
My main concern is just ammonia levels. It seems that my water just has ammonia in it(~.5ppm) at least that is what the API test says. Last thing I want to do is get my QT tank setup and get a fish or 2 in there and then they die off because of the high ammonia. I use RO/DI water, could it be that isn't doing its job properly? Any recommendations on something to either lower or that binds to the ammonia to make it less harmful?

Having fish in qt while DT cycles is a very common practice no harm in that.
But you have to make sure qt is properly cycled. if your should 0.5 ammonia that means its not cycled yet. You can take a sample of water to lfs or another fellow reefer and have them check for ammonia for a second opinion.
If you really have ammonia and dont wanna wait till cycle ends then you can have a lot of freshly made saltwater ready and do water change daily till bacteria starts to do its job. or you can buy prime or amquel or ammolock etc that will bind toxic ammonia to non toxic form but using such chemicals ur test kit will be useless as it will till show non toxic ammonia as ammonia and it cant distinguish between two.
Either way make sure ammonia is no longer in the tank otherwise it will hurt fish even in low levels.
 
lots of good info in here. im currently setting up a 40b for a qt setup. after having ich in my 75 ill never skip quarantine. a 210 gallon is way to big to be doing hypo or trying to treat problems. and most good meds would kill all my rock. thanks for the info guys!
 
lots of good info in here. im currently setting up a 40b for a qt setup. after having ich in my 75 ill never skip quarantine. a 210 gallon is way to big to be doing hypo or trying to treat problems. and most good meds would kill all my rock. thanks for the info guys!

Your welcome and i hope you gain the knowledge your seeking. I try to explain in detail as much as i can but for any reason you dont understand something feel free to ask.
 
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