First off thanks for the original post but I do have some questions. I imagine that they were more than likely answered somewhere within the 54 pages of this post - and I'll be honest - I really don't feel like reading through ALL of it. I am currently in the process of cycling my 75 gallon DT. I have a spare 10g that I plan to use for my emergency QT. I also have a spare biowheel filter. I'll have to get another heater and powerhead(no biggie). I just want to make sure I understand everything fully before I jump in.
1). Is 10g big enough? I don't plan on getting any HUGE fish. Clowns, gobies, and the largest a Kole tang, everything else will be smaller.
2). Should I just use some filter floss for the filter or do I need anything else?
3). What is the recommended quarantine time? I'm pretty sure my LFS quarantines their fish before going on display. They are incredibly reputable. I'll be sure to double check tho too.
4). What medications should I have on hand? I see copper is an option to treat ICH and I've also seen many posts containing prazipro... what is this?
5). Are lights needed for QT? I've seen people run and not run lights
6). I don't need to quarantine inverts, correct?
7). What is a good recommend test kit. I have red sea for nitrate and phosphate but an API for Ammonia, ph, and nitrite.. and I don't really like it.
I think that is all my questions. Sorry for so many.
Thanks!
Hi Maggie
I am happy to see ur doing things the right way. I will try to answer your questions and see if that helps. Please feel free to ask me any concerns you may have so we can get you on the right track.
1. Yes a 10gal will be just fine for smaller fish you mentioned even with a Kole you will be just fine.
2. Filter floss works well, i prefer ceramic rings for more surface area. I place my ceramic media in a media sock and place it in the HOB. it acts are a debris filter and harbor bacteria. Floss will do the same. After i have qt'ed all fish and moved them to DT, i take the HOB apart and clean it and rinse the media bag in the qt water to free it from debris build up, try keeping it submerged mostly so u can preserve the bacteria.
3. Honestly i dont trust fish being qt at anywhere else other than in my own tanks. Most fish stores say they do qt but then again if u think about it they get fish in and out to stay in business. if they hold fish in qt for 8 weeks that means they wont be selling anything for 2 months... you do the math lol.
I recommend atleast 8-10 weeks of QT.
4. I treat all fish with prazipro. Its a medication that dont hurt anything, it kills flukes, tapeworm, flatworm, and internal parasites. Cupramine is a form of copper that rids ich. Hyposalinity also does the same. I treat all fish with prazipro 2 weeks then observe for 6 weeks. But i treat all Tangs with hypo or copper no matter what as they are known carriers of ich.
5. QT does not require lights. Infact i have a cheap fixture (under $10) on the qt that runs only 2-3 hrs a day just to feed the fish and observe them closely. You dont have to have a light if you can see and diagnose the fish of any disease.
6. No need to qt inverts, some folks do but i dont and never had any issues.
7. API for qt is fine as all your checking for is really ammonia. But i personally use Red Sea test kits.
Hope it helps.