It still hasn't settled, came home and water is really cloudy. Guess ill c if it clears up later this week.
Guide to setup a Quarantine Tank (QT).
- Thread starter Dr. Reef
- Start date
It still hasn't settled, came home and water is really cloudy. Guess ill c if it clears up later this week.
I have not used it yet. Its a whiteish/cloudiness but now its been 4 or 5 days so even if it was the pvc fittings you would think that it would have gone away. Ill c where its at by the end of this week.
hey bnumair, was reading some negatives effects of the "raw shrimp" cycle method on this article. http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/nitrogen_cycle.html
was wondering if this could be an issue.
btw just put my shrimp in yesterday. tanks readings are, temp = 79degree steady, ph = 8.0, salinity = 1.0245 (34 ppt) and ammonia = .25. Just wondering if you have any trouble with Saprolegnia infection from the shrimp rot and if the Prazipro would be something that would take care of this if it did arise anyway.
Again thanks for all the help. I will post a pic of my QT tank tonight. It at least looks pleasant if nothing else lol.
was wondering if this could be an issue.
btw just put my shrimp in yesterday. tanks readings are, temp = 79degree steady, ph = 8.0, salinity = 1.0245 (34 ppt) and ammonia = .25. Just wondering if you have any trouble with Saprolegnia infection from the shrimp rot and if the Prazipro would be something that would take care of this if it did arise anyway.
Again thanks for all the help. I will post a pic of my QT tank tonight. It at least looks pleasant if nothing else lol.
I didn't read the study/link but first thing that jumped out wad the word "RAW". I don't use raw shrimp. I recommend frozen deli shrimp which is ready to eat right out of the package. It's been preserved in a way and flash frozen that no bacteria live on it.
Raw can be a problem.
Raw can be a problem.
OK cool. Thought freezing it would make it alright. Ammonia at little under .5 I have some stability. Was planning to start dosing it after amonia hits over 1. Should I start ghost feeding some fish flakes after shrimp comes out to feed bacteria colonies? Or just let bacteria suck up all ammonia and nitrite then add fish.
lol i dont mind questions.
I would dose stability after ammonia hits over 1 ppm. then pull the shrimp out and let the cycle take its course. no ghost feeding required while cycling.
mbauma
New member
I was thinking of using water from my main tank as water for my 20 gallon QT. Is it better to do that, or just use salt water I mixed?
I have a 20 gallon long, hang on back filter, heater, small pvc pipe and ammonia alert. What else do I need to get QT going? I have fish coming later today that I want to put in there.
Also, I have 2 skunk shrimp coming, do I need to QT those guys as well?
My first fish died last night, that I did not QT. See my other thread in fish disease section. Just want to make sure, there is nothing in the tank parasite wise.
I have a 20 gallon long, hang on back filter, heater, small pvc pipe and ammonia alert. What else do I need to get QT going? I have fish coming later today that I want to put in there.
Also, I have 2 skunk shrimp coming, do I need to QT those guys as well?
My first fish died last night, that I did not QT. See my other thread in fish disease section. Just want to make sure, there is nothing in the tank parasite wise.
Spar
New member
My personal preference is using water from my DT for the QT rather than newly mixed water. The main reason I like it is because it acts as a water change for my DT. The reason people dislike using DT water is because it contains organics that will start ammonia formation quicker.
Now, if your DT potentially has Ich (e.g. you ever put a non-ich-eradicating-QT'ed wet-thing in the tank), then it is fairly pointless to use DT water as you are just transferring in parasites. Then again, somewhat makes any QT method, other than observation, relatively pointless if that is the case.
Anything you add to the water that is wet needs to be QT'ed IF your intentions are to ensure a tank that is eradicated of Ich. This means live rock, macro algae, hermit crabs, snails, shrimp, anemones, urchins, etc. You QT these by keeping them in a separate fallow (fishless) tank for 12 weeks. The risk is that an Ich cyst (Tomite) hitchhiked in on the hard surface of those items. You need to give the cyst time to hatch and then the new parasites to die due to not finding a host (a fish).
Re: Setup -- you have all you need. My personal preference however is to just use an airpump and airstones (or sponge filter if want something seeded) rather than a powerhead or HOB filter, but you will be fine.
mbauma
New member
mbauma
New member
Now, if your DT potentially has Ich (e.g. you ever put a non-ich-eradicating-QT'ed wet-thing in the tank), then it is fairly pointless to use DT water as you are just transferring in parasites. Then again, somewhat makes any QT method, other than observation, relatively pointless if that is the case.
I was using glass tops and pulled those off last night in case it was on O2 problem, but I have plenty of flow: Sicce 5 main pump and 2 koralia power heads. My tank is a 140 btw with a 50 gallon sump or so.
I was using glass tops and pulled those off last night in case it was on O2 problem, but I have plenty of flow: Sicce 5 main pump and 2 koralia power heads. My tank is a 140 btw with a 50 gallon sump or so.
Spar
New member
Just get the QT salinity matched to what DD has and you will be fine. Will take some topoff of RO/DI to get the 1.028 down. And gives you an avenue to start getting your DT adjusted, so is a win/win!
Also keep in mind that "no signs of Ich" doesn't mean that Ich doesn't exist. The percentage of fish in the hobby (via passing through distribution centers, from LFS's, or from non-QT'ed hobbyist tanks) that have some Ich is high enough that it is better to just assume they have Ich to begin with. The best signs that the fish has Ich is either flashing or seeing the white spots (exit wounds from mature parasites burrowing out of the skin of the fish); however, a healthy fish with a great immune system may only have Ich in the gills (less protected compared to slime coat covered skin), and may not have enough parasites to annoy/irritate the fish enough to flash... thus you would miss the obvious signs. QT'ing via tank transfer method, copper or hypo (in order of effectiveness) are the only methods that will ensure any Ich present is eradicated; albeit some strains of Ich are resistant to Hypo (just FYI).
Also keep in mind that "no signs of Ich" doesn't mean that Ich doesn't exist. The percentage of fish in the hobby (via passing through distribution centers, from LFS's, or from non-QT'ed hobbyist tanks) that have some Ich is high enough that it is better to just assume they have Ich to begin with. The best signs that the fish has Ich is either flashing or seeing the white spots (exit wounds from mature parasites burrowing out of the skin of the fish); however, a healthy fish with a great immune system may only have Ich in the gills (less protected compared to slime coat covered skin), and may not have enough parasites to annoy/irritate the fish enough to flash... thus you would miss the obvious signs. QT'ing via tank transfer method, copper or hypo (in order of effectiveness) are the only methods that will ensure any Ich present is eradicated; albeit some strains of Ich are resistant to Hypo (just FYI).
mbauma
New member
Ok, I already added some RO/DI and it's down to 35.7 assuming my apex is on(it was just calibrated), I will also check with my refractometer. I only have 1 QT, can I stick the shrimp in with the anthias, or risk putting them in DT after acclimation?
Spar
New member
Re: 35.7; if you are talking about the salinity probe for controllers (such as Apex), these are known to be dodgy at best for verifying exact salinity; they work much better for indicating changes in salinity. you already stated you planned to anyway, but always make sure you are using a refractometer that is calibrated *by you* with 35ppt solution.
Re: Risk; it is up to each person to determine their level of acceptable risk. If you have the time and means to re-QT your entire tank if something fails (e.g. Ich shows up down the road), then you can tolerate higher risk; if you want to ensure you never have to go through that, then you pretty much have to negate all the risk by properly QT'ing with intent to eradicate parasites (focusing on Ich, Flukes, Velvet, Brook as the primary). To do this, non-fish need to be QT'ed separate from any fish for the entirety of a 72+ day period, and all fish need to be run through tank transfer or copper (for Ich), and PraziPro (for Flukes), all separate from non-fish.
Putting fish and non-fish together in a tank during QT will not accomplish anything unfortunately. Other than if you choose to merely observe for disease/parasites (not a bad thing at all, just is the least effective QT method).
joshyross70
New member
Ok so waited acouple of days and still nothing. Did a 8 gallon water change yesterday and tested this morning and nothing. Nitrites still showing high. Should i take a piece of liverock from my DTand put it in my QT along with the ceramic media? I will be using my QT for new livestock for observation and treating with prazipro
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