H&S Skimmer Club

Status
Not open for further replies.
Would love to do that but 2 things prevent it. The main one is room the second is the absolute fear of the skimmer going nuts and dumping water on my hardwood floors.
 
Not impossible to change the plumbing, but just more work. Instead of the a T off the 2nd drain near the skimmer, install a elbow first, then a T to join the 2 drains together and a 2nd T below for the skimmer & sump.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8751776#post8751776 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by UCanDoIt
Not impossible to change the plumbing, but just more work. Instead of the a T off the 2nd drain near the skimmer, install a elbow first, then a T to join the 2 drains together and a 2nd T below for the skimmer & sump.

Any way to illustrate that?
 
Ask and you shall receive. Photo is courtesy of my aquarium tech as he has a new digital camera. I did the labeling and hopefully not too confusing.
<IMG SRC="http://usera.imagecave.com/winner/DualOFPlumbing.jpg">
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8745903#post8745903 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by djtodd
FWIW, day 3 and no change. I just added 2 small bags of carbon, 1 in the overflow, and 1 in the sump chamber with the feed pump. I figure it can't hurt even though I do already run carbon in a Phosban Reactor.
How is it going?
I also think the carbon is your issue. I fired up a Fluval 404 canister filter I had kicking around. I filled the sucker up with an entire 3.65L container of Black Diamond carbon. It works fine, but killed my skimming. Like yours, the skimmer had a hard time building/keeping a foam head. I was running a TON of carbon. I have turned off the canister and now I'm starting to see an improvement. I would say remove the carbon for now and see what happens.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8762886#post8762886 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sjm817
How is it going?
I also think the carbon is your issue. I fired up a Fluval 404 canister filter I had kicking around. I filled the sucker up with an entire 3.65L container of Black Diamond carbon. It works fine, but killed my skimming. Like yours, the skimmer had a hard time building/keeping a foam head. I was running a TON of carbon. I have turned off the canister and now I'm starting to see an improvement. I would say remove the carbon for now and see what happens.

Nah, the carbon was there to get rid of the plastic junk that was stopping my skimming. Surface tension was all messed up, it couldn't build a head at all. It came back on Wednesday. Took the extra carbon out this evening.

Skimming is still a little weak, but I'm sure that over the next few days it wil return to normal 100%.

I do run carbon 24/7 in a phosban reactor (as well as phosban in another reactor) but just enough to get rid of fishie smells and such.
 
I picked up my 200a tonight from the seller. It is in good shape but is receiving a vinegar bath as well speak. Hopefully I can get it in the sump tomorrow to see how it will perform for me. I'm going to feed it with a mj1200 for now to see how it does.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8773744#post8773744 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by thrlride
I picked up my 200a tonight from the seller. It is in good shape but is receiving a vinegar bath as well speak. Hopefully I can get it in the sump tomorrow to see how it will perform for me. I'm going to feed it with a mj1200 for now to see how it does.

Any update thrlride?

When I had mine hooked up to a mj, I thought oh, this is OK. Once I finally got around to plumbing it from my drain line, I thought Now I know what everyone is talking about.

David
 
I received my A150-F2001 from Eric et al at Finsreef earlier this month...and I've got a couple of quick questions.

Does the inlet/feed barb need to be PVC glued in place, or is there some other way to fix it in place that I'm not aware of?

Also, I recall reading earlier in this thread where Eric stated the skimmer actually got more air injection when the valve was compressed on the inlet hose....how much is good, and does anyone know what page the post was on?

BTW, the skimmer is built very well and I'm already impressed with the design and its just sitting in the box.

Nick
 
i tried lots of things before finally deciding to glue the inlet in. As far as the outlet T. I wrapped the outlet piping in Thread Tape and then slit the T over it. I can still spin the T with little effort and it created a seal so it wouldn't leak. The clamping of the air inlet is strictly fine tuning. I dont recommend touching it till you have the skimmer tuned in and making the skimmate you are looking for. Once you have it all tuned in, slowly clamp down the air tube and you will see the bubbles get smaller in the riser tube. It just gives your skimmer a little extra umph. Good luck!
 
I never understood the "clamping down creates more air" idea. According to my air meter, clamping down or using airtaps only REDUCES the amount of air entering the skimmer. Reducing the air does make the bubbles smaller and tighter, therefore I run my 1260's air at 14 lph each as opposed to the wide open 17 lph. Leaving me a total of 28 lph.
 
Each skimmer is actually different in the way it responds to the air hose being clamped. I'm not sure if I'm saying it correctly, but when the air hose is completely open while a brand new skimmer is breaking in, the new pump might be too strong and the water pushing through the pump will not pull the air into the mixture as well as after the skimmer is broken in. So, a slight clamping down of the air hose can actually increase the air draw as it gives the air/water an edge to mix and pull into the pump. Again, I'm sure that others can describe this better, but my experience is the same for both Deltec and H&S skimmers that slightly clamped down at the beginning seems to give the best air draw and eventually ends up that I pull the air clamp off the air hose once the skimmer is broken in.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7296733#post7296733 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by FinsReef
First Picture is the 200-1260 with air valve wide open
248fc3c5.jpg


Second Picture is after closing the pinch valve down some.
Guage is in LPH so take the numbers and multiply by 60 to get LPH.
54175421.jpg
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8850010#post8850010 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dkh0331
Any update thrlride?

When I had mine hooked up to a mj, I thought oh, this is OK. Once I finally got around to plumbing it from my drain line, I thought Now I know what everyone is talking about.

David

So far I am in love with this thing. Even with the maxi hookup I am getting coffee colored skimmate to an almost full cup every 4 days.

I do have a question about running ozone through it. I have a sanders 50 mg/hr unit and was curious the best way to input that into the skimmer.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8877301#post8877301 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by clkwrk
Same ozone I am using . I input it through the air intake using an old rio 800 outlet.

Do you use an airpump or let the skimmer venturi suck the air through? What do you do about the ozone smell?
 
I use a luft air pump to pump air thru my airdrier then through the ozone to the skimmer. I am not running enough ozone to smell it so I am using no carbon except the normal carbon in a bag in my return chamber. When I was using alot of o3 I just used a thin plastic to mold around the top of the cup and filled the top with a polyp pad and carbon on top.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top