Help blue tang eye problem!

87ford

New member
So I just noticed my blue tang has a round disk around his right eye I don't know what he has please someone help me the tank is quite new I would say 2 months old now it's a 150 gallon 30 gallon sump 2 mag 12 pumps 2 korila 1200 and the water param is ph 8.0 0 amonia 0 nitrite 10 nitrate and the dkh is 8 temp is 80 calcium 460 iodine .06 0 copper 0 phosphates I don't know if he hurt it on a rock cause he likes to sleep wedged between a rock but any thoughts would be great

Thanks
Tom
 

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It's hard to see what exactly you are describing based on the pic. But if you see one swollen eye then it's due to injury, but if it's two swollen eyes then it's getting sick.
 
Sorry it's hard using iphone to take picture and they don't like strong lighting lol
 

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Had the same problem with our blue hippo last week. It's healing up nicely now. It was being chased by the other fish until the injury. The other fish died a week ago by hitting his face on something hard because when i pulled it off the tank, the whole face structure fell off.
 
What did you do to help it heal should I set up a quarantine tank or just leave him in the display? He is acting normal eating etc
 
What did you do to help it heal should I set up a quarantine tank or just leave him in the display? He is acting normal eating etc


Determine what the aggressor was that caused the injury and remove that element. Otherwise, you will need to take him out of DT and and let it heal.
 
Ok thank you so this morning it looks a little better not as big as yesterday but today he is acting strange cause is fins are up but he is near no one I'll keep an eye on him and see how he is doing I don't think he is getting bullied cause there aren't to many fish in the tank to begin with I think he did it to him self I saw him scrape his side on a rock he might have caught his eye doing that and plus he sleeps wedged between rocks at night

Thanks
Tom
 
Ok so the eye started to go down but I think it's cause is ich I saw some white spots all over him so I set up a quarantine tank and put copper meds in should I feed him and if so when what and how often it's a non cycled tank of course no rock no sand just fake ornaments to keep him some what comfortable so I don't want anything that will shoot up the amonia I have a amonia alert tag on the tank so I can keep an eye on it to do water changes etc I hope I'm not wasting my time here I did this once for a freshwater fish that caught a parisite spent 100 to save a 10 dollar fish if anyone has any input on a proper tank set up etc and what I should or shouldn't do please throw some advice out I could really use it

Thanks
Tom
 
Ok so the eye started to go down but I think it's cause is ich I saw some white spots all over him so I set up a quarantine tank and put copper meds in should I feed him and if so when what and how often it's a non cycled tank of course no rock no sand just fake ornaments to keep him some what comfortable so I don't want anything that will shoot up the amonia I have a amonia alert tag on the tank so I can keep an eye on it to do water changes etc I hope I'm not wasting my time here I did this once for a freshwater fish that caught a parisite spent 100 to save a 10 dollar fish if anyone has any input on a proper tank set up etc and what I should or shouldn't do please throw some advice out I could really use it

Thanks
Tom


A typical QT would have a sponge filter with an air pump, a few PVC pipes, maybe a HOB filter, a power head, and a heater. I like to put in a few pieces of live rock or a bucket of live sand to seed it. Feeding is the same. Don't over feed, siphon out as much uneaten good as possible. Also need to make sure to get a tank that's not too small. 40 gallon to me is a good one that fits many sizes of fish.
 
Ok thank you I have a 10 gallon cause it was laying around it's got a heater on it and a fluval c2 it's bare bottom should I put a power head and a air stone in it I have them just not sure to use them I could sees it but using copper and meds doesn't that just kill the good Bactria any way? I would like to use a 40 gallon but I think the girlfriend will kill me I live in a 1 bedroom apartment and I have a 36 bow a 55 a 10 hex a 10 rectangle qt and a 150 gallon I want more it's an addiction lol but money told me otherwise very expensive hobby also do you think in wasting my time treating this fish cause how do I know the parisite isn't in the dt etc is there a time laps etc to know when it dies I read about 11 months and it's exhausted etc but if I treat the fish for let's say 2-4 weeks give or take and put him back in won't he just catch it again ?

Thanks a ton
Tom
 
Ok thank you I have a 10 gallon cause it was laying around it's got a heater on it and a fluval c2 it's bare bottom should I put a power head and a air stone in it I have them just not sure to use them I could sees it but using copper and meds doesn't that just kill the good Bactria any way? I would like to use a 40 gallon but I think the girlfriend will kill me I live in a 1 bedroom apartment and I have a 36 bow a 55 a 10 hex a 10 rectangle qt and a 150 gallon I want more it's an addiction lol but money told me otherwise very expensive hobby also do you think in wasting my time treating this fish cause how do I know the parisite isn't in the dt etc is there a time laps etc to know when it dies I read about 11 months and it's exhausted etc but if I treat the fish for let's say 2-4 weeks give or take and put him back in won't he just catch it again ?

Thanks a ton
Tom


Definitely need the power head and air stone. Don't use copper but use seachem cupermine, which does not kill the denitrifying bacteria. If one fish has it in the DT then it's everywhere in the DT. But it doesn't mean every fish will get it. I don't recommend dosing DT as that's usually the last resort. But if you blue tang is larger than 3" then a 10 gallon brand new QT will probably stress itself more. Suggest you to evaluate what you have in the DT, and see if dosing it is appropriate. It doesn't sound lie you have cupermine anyway so it's probably at best to wait until tomorrow. If the fish pulls through then either get a 30 or 40 gallon tank and make it a QT or dose the tank with cupermine. Make sure to read and follow the instruction. Maybe ask your gf to chip in. If not then maybe you need to get a new one.
 
The blue tang is a little less than 3 inches and thank you guess there is no way of knowing till I see signs on the other fish and I can't dose that display tank cause it has inverts and corals in there and even if It didn't it would never be alowed to have any then right also can I leave the qt up and running for new fish when I buy them and leave the copper meds in so this way anything on them will be killed etc or is it just best to leave it with no meds and wait to see any signs but a fish could have a parisite and have no signs I'm trying to prevent this from happening in future
Thanks again
Tom
 
The blue tang is a little less than 3 inches and thank you guess there is no way of knowing till I see signs on the other fish and I can't dose that display tank cause it has inverts and corals in there and even if It didn't it would never be alowed to have any then right also can I leave the qt up and running for new fish when I buy them and leave the copper meds in so this way anything on them will be killed etc or is it just best to leave it with no meds and wait to see any signs but a fish could have a parisite and have no signs I'm trying to prevent this from happening in future
Thanks again
Tom


IMO, leaving a QT up and running is a must in this hobby. I wouldn't dose the QT at first and purely use it to observe new comers. You want to use the right meds and copper isn't an all-it-all med. As far as any existing fish goes in your DT, if it's still eating but there just seems to be something off about it. What I typically do is to keep an eye on it and make sure to feed it well. At the first instance that you realize it's got a problem by obvious signs like rubbing but still eating, then take it out, put it in a 5 gallon bucket, and use seachem paraguard since it's designed to combat many types of problems for an one hour dip. Then you can let the fish back to the DT. IMO, when a fish stops eating, then you got to do something drastic to reverse that. 50% WC is an option, taking the fish to a QT that has clean water that's not from DT is another.
 
Ok thanks so when I'm done with the fish in the qt if he makes it I hope then what do I do to clean the qt tank just empty and fill it or should I use vinegar etc what will get rid of the meds and diseases and also to keep a qt tank cycled do you add amonia to keep the bactriria alive etc or just let it be ?

Thanks
Tom
 
Help blue tang eye problem!

Ok thanks so when I'm done with the fish in the qt if he makes it I hope then what do I do to clean the qt tank just empty and fill it or should I use vinegar etc what will get rid of the meds and diseases and also to keep a qt tank cycled do you add amonia to keep the bactriria alive etc or just let it be ?

Thanks
Tom


Remove meds by carbon. No need to empty. Do 50% WC if you are gonna get new fish. Do nothing and leave it empty for 2 months. Carbon takes care of med. running empty will starve most pathogens to death.
 
Thanks for responding to all my questions it's nice to be able to ask for help and someone actually responds lol
 
Help blue tang eye problem!

Ok and will the tank stay cycled if there is no fish in it for let's say 3 months or so?


Keep an sponge filter, a power head, and maybe a heater (if you are at a cold area) running then the bio filtration will still be there. If you are in a warmer climate, well summer is coming, then no need of the heater.
 
Ok thank you and ahh the lovely wc I will say this I enjoy changing the water a lot more on my 55 it's a freshwater which means no mixing heating etc lol

Thanks again
Tom
 
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