Help growing chaeto

mfaso24

Member
I've had chaeto since October and it really hasn't done much. I've grown it under a 5k led and changed to a 6500k cfl bulb recently to try to get better results to no avail. My sump does however, grow a good amount of cyano, which I syphon and clean out every week during my water change. It doesn't grow at all in my display. My tank consistently runs phosphate around 0-10 ppb with Hanna checker ulr. Nitrates are always undetectable using api. That said, I have to clean my glass about every other day or else it gets very hazy, so I don't think lack of nutrients are an issue.
Is there something I'm missing? My tank is doing fairly well, which is all that matters but I hear people that grow chaeto like mad. Should I just take out the chaeto and kill the light and avoid the whole cyano mess in the sump as a whole? Oh, and also I get good coraline growth in my sump. Probably better than the growth in my display lol
 
Chaeto needs stuffiest nutrients to grow. The lower the nutrients, the lower the growth. From the sounds of it, you have really low nutrients. Regarding the cyano in your sump, it's likely growing there because of detritus and waste collection coupled with slower flow. Try shielding that area from light and keep vacuuming it to keep it cleaner. As for cleaning your glass every other day, that is likely more a result of an abundance of direct light hitting the glass than it is about nutrients. Also, some spectrums will grow algae faster so the rate of algae on your glass could be compounding by your lighting as well as lighting from near by windows.
 
Changing lights does nothing.

I tried that and chaeto still died.


My case is simply adding chaeto under cheap light and grows mad for 2 months then wither's away once the water is cleaned up.

Started a ATS and no issues at all and water cleaner
 
My chaeto doesn't die. It looks nice and healthy it just doesn't grow. And regarding the algae on the glass that makes a lot of sense since I only get it bad on the front and back glass and not so much the sides. Thanks!
 
You are keeping your light on 18 to preferably 24 hours a day right? Chaeto doesn't like a short light cycle.
 
I think of cheato like a hydroponic plant.. I had problems growing it long ago, until I began using my knowledge in that area.. Simply overpower it, and it will grow.. The nature of a plant is to put energy either into growing, or producing offspring.. And it needs sufficient light power and photosynthetic energy to do so.. And a plant will scavenge nutrient, as long as it has the energy to do so. All of which requires light energy..

There are a few things I have discovered over the years, at least for myself when it comes to growing it, but still using hydro principals..

You simply have to think about what your trying to do. Your attempting to "grow" a vegetative plant(your growing to grow only and maximally), so generally speaking, your going to, as another person said, need to up your hours. At least 16 hours up to 22. That is, even with higher powered lighting,which is the next thing ..

And I'm in the minority by far on "more power", but the results speak for themselves.. The Kelvin definately matters, but so does the wattage and "type" of bulb.. An incandescent 150 watt bulb simply, at the same power, doesn't have penetration power of say a hid type of bulb. And though cfls(especially the mogul based ones) are stronger, they still do not grow like a small hid bulb.. Or even better yet, as I found recently, a dedicated horticulture led fixture..

As far as scrubbers(and the ARID reactor) , the one thing that most don't realize, is that all your doing is bombarding a small area with a ton of light and sufficient contact with flowing water.. It will do it's own thing at that point.. Same principal with cheato growth "should" be employed. But.. Unfortunately it is not.. There really is no need to dose anything, and no need to tumble.. That is, unless your light doesn't have the power to do the job. Which, is, a lot of the problem with cheato growth with most.. And you once again "can have low nutrients and still grow cheato well".. My last 3 tanks have been sps dominant, and always has low levels, but I have always been able to effectively grow cheato.. And by affective, I mean I measure 5 gallon bucket full time frame, simply because I use it as a co2 scrubber also.. You just have to overpower it(and your display tank so that the majority of the light energy is going towards the fuge)

But, my suggestion, throw more light at it.. Buy a horticulture led(at least 120 watt) grow fixture, run it 15 hours and watch it explode.. The pictures attached are my typical growth for less than a week after a harvest, and I have a 4 foot 75 as my sump, so it's not huge(also is my eel den)..

And the cyano, is from the spectrum of the CFL.. It's the spectrum of the bulb.. I had that issue with both the 2700 and 5000k large mogul CFL bulbs(100 and 150 watt).


c537b1999c987c93dea6fa3f5b0e7219.jpg
db0e7a79419882f1d91bbbae7bd2591b.jpg
 
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I think of cheato like a hydroponic plant.. I had problems growing it long ago, until I began using my knowledge in that area.. Simply overpower it, and it will grow.. The nature of a plant is to put energy either into growing, or producing offspring.. And it needs sufficient light power and photosynthetic energy to do so.. And a plant will scavenge nutrient, as long as it has the energy to do so. All of which requires light energy..

There are a few things I have discovered over the years, at least for myself when it comes to growing it, but still using hydro principals..

You simply have to think about what your trying to do. Your attempting to "grow" a vegetative plant(your growing to grow only and maximally), so generally speaking, your going to, as another person said, need to up your hours. At least 16 hours up to 22. That is, even with higher powered lighting,which is the next thing ..

And I'm in the minority by far on "more power", but the results speak for themselves.. The Kelvin definately matters, but so does the wattage and "type" of bulb.. An incandescent 150 watt bulb simply, at the same power, doesn't have penetration power of say a hid type of bulb. And though cfls(especially the mogul based ones) are stronger, they still do not grow like a small hid bulb.. Or even better yet, as I found recently, a dedicated horticulture led fixture..

As far as scrubbers(and the ARID reactor) , the one thing that most don't realize, is that all your doing is bombarding a small area with a ton of light and sufficient contact with flowing water.. It will do it's own thing at that point.. Same principal with cheato growth "should" be employed. But.. Unfortunately it is not.. There really is no need to dose anything, and no need to tumble.. That is, unless your light doesn't have the power to do the job. Which, is, a lot of the problem with cheato growth with most.. And you once again "can have low nutrients and still grow cheato well".. My last 3 tanks have been sps dominant, and always has low levels, but I have always been able to effectively grow cheato.. And by affective, I mean I measure 5 gallon bucket full time frame, simply because I use it as a co2 scrubber also.. You just have to overpower it(and your display tank so that the majority of the light energy is going towards the fuge)

But, my suggestion, throw more light at it.. Buy a horticulture led(at least 120 watt) grow fixture, run it 15 hours and watch it explode.. The pictures attached are my typical growth for less than a week after a harvest, and I have a 4 foot 75 as my sump, so it's not huge(also is my eel den)..

And the cyano, is from the spectrum of the CFL.. It's the spectrum of the bulb.. I had that issue with both the 2700 and 5000k large mogul CFL bulbs(100 and 150 watt).


c537b1999c987c93dea6fa3f5b0e7219.jpg
db0e7a79419882f1d91bbbae7bd2591b.jpg


This is pretty helpful. But I guess my main question is this. Is there s significant benefit for the system from growing cheato this efficiently?
 
This is pretty helpful. But I guess my main question is this. Is there s significant benefit for the system from growing cheato this efficiently?

Yes, constant nutrient export by chaeto means you can feed more once your nutrients drop which means happier corals as long as the waste is being exported.
 
This is pretty helpful. But I guess my main question is this. Is there s significant benefit for the system from growing cheato this efficiently?
Well, yes.. On a few levels.. First, just like a scrubber, it keeps the nutrient levels even lower, easier. Then, because of the intake of the co2, and give off of oxygen, your water stays extra oxygenated(may not need it, but just like anything else, it's a good backup) and my pH doesn't swing(neither does my buddies, who does the same, but has his in a little cheato "crate" he built. Then, the pod growth and population is insane(I have had mandarins and bugs only a few weeks after starting each system). There are so many pods, shrimps, sponges, and life down there after a month, because of the slower flow and shelter, that is like night and day.. It's also a great little place for crabs and other little critters like nudi's, worms, stars(I swear I could probably go into buisness selling micro stars with what comes out of a handful of that matt of madness). It also is sort of a filter mechanism.. It's a wonderful place for frags also of anything(side bonus). And most importantly, to me at least, and a buddy of mine, if anything is going to rear it's head, because there is more light, it will show in the fuge long, long before, if ever in the display tank. He had a persistent little annoying problem on his overflow that he tried everything to get rid of. Two weeks after adding his light, gone.. And has never returned..

I haven't had any algea problems(even annoying Dusting on the rocks) in the display, even with start ups. And that has been collectively about 7 years..

And the great thing about the led light, it's little energy is used to be honest, and no impact on temperature whatsoever.

And I can't prove it yet, but I just obtained a microscope. I never, ever feed coral.. Neither my softs, LPS, or sps.. I bet there is some form of planktonic production going on, in some level the way things grow and thrive. And my system is always unls status... Just a guess or hypothesis, but I will know in the next week for sure..
 
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