Help. Ich...

[WMac]

I need some help with ICH.

I have a 1000 gal tank. its over 30 inchs deep and IMPOSIBLE !!!!
to catch the fish, to get them out.

I bought couple of fish two weeks ago and Q'd them for over a week. I then added them to the tank and walla :eek1: WHITE SPOTS.... its been two weeks and just found one of the new fish dead :mad2:

HOW DO I TREAT THE "ENTIRE TANK.

Again I cant get the live fish out. So please dont respond with Quarinteen and treat them.

I desperatly need some help here so as to not kill everything.

do I lower the Salinity, add some Chemicals. Feed Garlic ?

 

[Sk8r]

You have a problem. You are going to have to let it run its course and let the fish live or die. There IS no treatment for a tank.

This is what I would do. 1. feed fresh garlic. Smash it and feed the bits. 2. keep the water chemistry excellent. 3. get a cleaner shrimp---won't cure it, but may give fish some relief. 4. have a cleanup crew adequate to your biggest fish and a skimmer that can handle biowaste: you're likely to lose some. 5. let it run its course. Some fish will die. Some will live. 6. Do NOT replace lost fish: the species that die will be particularly susceptible. 7. Here is my own crackpot but not impossible theory: I think corals eat ich, given a chance, when it's in its swimming stage. Fish develop a resistence to it, if they survive. Some fishes (mandys, etc) are naturally resistent. Give it 6 months with NO NEW FISH from date of last outbreak. 8. Quarantine any new arrivals.

We've all been there. Probably the majority of your livestock will make it through. Just keep that water the best you've ever kept it in your life and that will help them most.

 

[Ncastro1981]

pmed

 

[WMac]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14131504#post14131504 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sk8r
You have a problem. You are going to have to let it run its course and let the fish live or die. There IS no treatment for a tank.

This is what I would do. 1. feed fresh garlic. Smash it and feed the bits. 2. keep the water chemistry excellent. 3. get a cleaner shrimp---won't cure it, but may give fish some relief. 4. have a cleanup crew adequate to your biggest fish and a skimmer that can handle biowaste: you're likely to lose some. 5. let it run its course. Some fish will die. Some will live. 6. Do NOT replace lost fish: the species that die will be particularly susceptible. 7. Here is my own crackpot but not impossible theory: I think corals eat ich, given a chance, when it's in its swimming stage. Fish develop a resistence to it, if they survive. Some fishes (mandys, etc) are naturally resistent. Give it 6 months with NO NEW FISH from date of last outbreak. 8. Quarantine any new arrivals.

We've all been there. Probably the majority of your livestock will make it through. Just keep that water the best you've ever kept it in your life and that will help them most.

What about my OZONE. My orp is at 400 right now.
how much can i safley raise it.

I read that the OZONE will help kill it as well. I dont have any stoneys yet, just some softies, enenomies, mushrooms.

 

[GT3000XX]

When is the last time you cleaned the probe? If that is a true ORP I would not go any higher. The only parasite that will be killed are the one that come indirect contact with the ozone.

 

[Sk8r]

I'm going to pass on the ozone, because this is a piece of equipment I have never used. I'm sure someone can answer this for you, or pose it as a separate question: "will ozone help kill ich?"

If my theory is correct, any coral with a mouth might ingest some ich and dispose of it. But it's conjecture only.

I would resist temptation to toss any chemical solution into the tank, except garlic: fish do seem to like it, and nobody knows if it helps, but it does seem to stimulate appetite (good) and maybe helps slime coat (at least it makes OUR eyes water). You have not mentioned what species fish you are dealing with. The most susceptible fishes are rabbitfish, tangs, and angels in about that order: the open-water swimming fish. The bottom-dwelling fish that live in the sand where the parasite hangs out---gobies, blennies, jawfish, and dragonets---have some natural resistence, and a pretty good slime coat. Jawfish are about the weakest of that lot. But I would try to keep the water at ideal parameters, right smack in the center of all zones. Fish in the wild manage to avoid this parasite in general: it's again one of my crackpot theories that the reason it prevails in our systems is a) we're small and on a permanent loop and b) we force open-water swimmers like tangs who don't have good protection to swim within 18" of the sand where the stuff hangs out. I personally have had outbreaks in my career of some 40 years in the watery hobby, and my success with treatment and my success at just leaving the stuff be have been about equal as far as tank survival goes. I have never lost a tank to it.

 

[jnc914]

The parasite would need consistent exposure to the ozone in order for it to have any real effect. Meaning, if it is now being run through a skimmer or chamber, it will have little to no effect on the Ich. Ozone is primarily used to break down organics and clarify/clean the water. If you had a FOWLR I would tell you to use hypo and run ozone and do water changes to battle the die off in the rocks. Unfortunately without catching the fish, you are fighting a losing battle.

 

[baobao]

treating ich directly in a 1000 gallon tank?? wow, that's quite a handful. i strongly suggest you look to remove your fish if you want to treat - of course, with a tank that big, you might as well, just let the fish develop immunity by providing good quality water, good nutrition.

 

[gorey]

I just read many, many, many articles on ich and it says that after 10 to 11 life cycles ich will die even in a tank with fish. But you are looking at 10 cycles at 28ish days a peice. This is juat what i have read i have no experience with this.....