Help me figure out why I kill so many fish...

tgunn

Active member
I've had my tank up and running since October 2005; so I'm coming on 2 years running now. I read and researched about saltwater fish for about a year and followed build threads on here before even considering my own system.

Despite attempting to follow good husbandry practices throughout the life of my system, lately I seem to be killing an inordinate number of fish.

Let me give some history..
My system consists of:
140g tank
2 x 250w 10k halides
2 x 54w blue plus T5
2 x 54w aquablue T5
100g basement sump
Three pump Octopus recirculating skimmer (rated for a huge tank, much larger than mine).
Calcium reactor run by doser
I grow chaeto (very slowly) in my sump using a couple of CF floodlights ala Melev.
All water for the tank is filtered with a RO/DI system, and I try to keep the TDS around 0-2 TDS.

Here's a chronology of my failures to keep fish:

When I first started the tank I set it up with 130lb of liverock; 100lb of base rock and 30lb of premium rock. I started out with a 1-2" shallow sand bed in the display. I let this cycle until all the levels were stable.

My first fish was a yellow tang, which I still have today.

Slowly over about a year I worked up to:
- yellow tang
- 2 x clownfish
- 6 x blue/green chromis
- Pink Square anthias
- Powder blue tang
- Sailfin tang

This was the peak of my fish stock...
The chromis began fighting and their numbers dwindled to 2.
From the start I ran a Resun Ozone generator with my large beckett skimmer. I didn't run carbon over the skimmer effluent but I controlled the ORP with an ORP controller.

In December 2006 I bought my large 3 pump recirculating octopus skimmer. Little did I know this was the start of BIG problems. I didn't realize it but the new skimmer was not processing the ozone effectively at all. In January 2007 I bought 4 new fish which I put into my 35g quarantine tank (I'll explain QT procedures later). By February 2007 they were disease free and healthy; ready for the main tank. I put them in and was shocked when the next day ALL 4 were dead. I lost a lamark's angel, bicolor dottyback, sixline wrasse, and scooter. i spoke at length to the LFS and he suggested ozone overdose, knowing my system pretty well. He loaned me a Hach free/total chrlorine kit and sure enouigh I tested pretty high for OPOs. I immediately shut down the ozone. The next day my pinksquare died. A few months later my sailfin was found stuck to the closed loop intake dead.

The ozone overdoes proved to kill off most of the microfauna in the sandbed, making it a trough of sludge and decay. In April 2007 I took down the tank, put everything in the sump and cleaned out the tank and all the sand. Time to try barebottom.

Unfortunately 1 of the chromis died from the stress of the move to the sump, and one of my clowns got sucked into the intake of the PCX-40 I was using to move water in the sump (NOT good).

Everything was running fine so in June 2007 I bought a Kole tang, and 3 cardinals.

One of the cardinals perished the same day in QT, but the rest of them did fine and made it to July when it was time to introduce them into the tank. My daughter was born in July and becase of that the tank for neglected for a few weeks after the new fish were introduced.. My powder blue, who seemed to be doing fine for the longest time, was stuck to the closed loop intake when I got home one day from work. Not more than a week later the Kole suffered the same fate.

I figured big fish and the closed loop intake was the problem. 5000GPH through a single intake screen was probably too much. It just so happens at the end of July one of my closed loop bulkheads popped and the tank started leaking. So I bought a stock tank, put everything in, tore down the tank (AGAIN), sealed off the closed loop, and replaced it with two Tunze 6101s thinking they'd be less hazardous than my old closed loop intake screens.

Around August 2007 I bought a purple fish (can't recall name), baby regal tang, and a sixline. All were QTed and seemed happy and healthy. I introduced them into the tank the beginning of this month. A few days later te sixline was dead. The regal and purple fish are fine though.

At that point I bought more fish and put them into QT. I bought a cleaner wrasse, baby sailfin, two electric blue damsels, and a black clownfish. The cleaner died overnight.

Yesterday I noticed one of the damsels was not doing well:
IMG_2378.JPG
It had a raised yellow bump on its side and was acting kinda sluggish.
Sure enough it died and got stuck on one of my powerheads in the QT tank.
I found it this morning and removed it. Well, I dunno if the death of that fish did it, but my sailfin is acting VERY sluggish today; laying on its side and being very lazy looking. No signs of physical trauma though.
I did a 50% water change with tank water; we'll see if that helps things out. I did not test the nitrates/ammonia and all that because I just wanted to get things in gear again. I'll test that later today though.

So what's my QT procedures:
When new fish come home I typically float them in the sump. Over the span of about 45min to 1 hour I will drip in more water or scoop little bits of water into the bag. With my last batch I poured all their bags into a small bucket and just dripped in tank water.

While this was happening the QT was set up with 35g of tank water, a maxijet 400, maxijet 1200, and an aquaclear hob filter. For filter media I used a combination ammonia remover and carbon pack, and a new ceramic media cartridge (I normally use one that has been in the sump, but I forgot to put it back in the sump after the last run).
I feed with an auto feeder a combo of flake spirulina and prime reef 2 x daily (small feedings).
Once the fish have been drip acclimated long enough I net them and put them into the QT tank (the LFS uses various medications on new shipments and recommends to limit the amount of that water introduced to the tank).

I'm really getting bummed out. My corals all look terribly pale and bland, and it's been suggested to me that my fish load is WAY too low for the corals to get the nutrients they need to actually color up. But I can't seem to get the right fish load because things keep dying on me.

Any help and pointers would be greatly appreciated. I can't seem to figure out what I'm doing wrong here.

Thanks,
Tyler
 
You're not still running the ozone, are you? ozone will destroy a fishes gills if it is exposed to it.

It sounds to me as if there is a toxin entering the water. What is going on in the basement? anything that might be getting into the sump?
 
I know other reefers that keep amazing coral tanks with 1-3 fish. The fish load shouldn't have anything to do with your coral color. That's what supplements are for.

I would stop adding any livestock to your tank until you find out why everything is dying.
What are your water parameters?
Are any of your pumps leaking? Stray voltage?
Does you wife spray anything in the air ( fragrance,cleaning supplies) in the room where your tank is?
Do you run a UV sterilizer?
Are you using PVC or copper pipes?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10777586#post10777586 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmaneyapanda
You're not still running the ozone, are you? ozone will destroy a fishes gills if it is exposed to it.

It sounds to me as if there is a toxin entering the water. What is going on in the basement? anything that might be getting into the sump?

I am not running the ozone any more. I was not seeing enough beenfit from it so I don't really bother. I did try for a while in June/July to run it on LOW and kept measuring the water for OPOs using a Hach free and total chrloine test kit; no problems were measurable in the water. But I have discontinued.

Hmm, toxins entering the water.

I'll have to take some pics of my fish room setup; perhaps there's something obvious I'm missing.

Some things I'm thinking..
December 3, 2006 I made a batch of DIY food. I put in frozen ingredients from the asian market:
- Cuttlefish
- squid tubes
- octopus
- white equador shrimp
- sea cucumbers
- Featherback fish paste (which I just looked up and found out is freshwater).

That's coincidentally when I had the first problems with the ozone. I wonder if this home made food has something in it that is causing problems too. I wonder too if my other flake foods I feed as well are low quality... I'm using Prime Reef, which from what I've read should be okay. I'm also using generic spirulina flakes and selcon soaked Nori. Perhaps the generic spirulina? I dunno.

Other thoughts:
- my fresh RO/DI water sits in a rubbermaid roughneck black trash bin. Perhaps this is leaching? I use a large grey rubbermaid BRUTE can for my new saltwater mixing; I am pretty sure these cans are okay.
- I have a RUBBER coupling between my return pump and the return plumbing to isolate vibrations. Perhaps this is leaching something?
- Live rock... 100lb of this rock I bought used from someone shutting down a Fish Only with Live Rock tank. It sat dry for two weeks. I "cooked" it in saltwater for a couple months before using.

My params are:
- Temperature: 78.7 - 80F
- Salinity 1.026
- Ammonia: 0
- Nitrite: 0
- Nitrate: usually 0, sometimes up to 0.25
- Calcium 400ppm
- Alkalinity 11.6dKH

Tyler
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10777951#post10777951 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr_o98
I know other reefers that keep amazing coral tanks with 1-3 fish. The fish load shouldn't have anything to do with your coral color. That's what supplements are for.

I would stop adding any livestock to your tank until you find out why everything is dying.
What are your water parameters?
Are any of your pumps leaking? Stray voltage?
Does you wife spray anything in the air ( fragrance,cleaning supplies) in the room where your tank is?
Do you run a UV sterilizer?
Are you using PVC or copper pipes?

Yeah, I'm not going to be adding any more fish for a while now.

Most of my corals always end up kinda getting pale in color and drab once they're in my system for a while. I find corals have been hit and miss. I've got some that do really great (despite losing color from when I got them), like my frogspawn, a digitata, a tricolor acro, and a galaxia. Others will thrive for a while, and then kinda STN away over time.

My main pumps are now:
- PCX-70, so that's not going to be leaking voltage or anything really.
- 2 x Tunze 6101s. I just got these but had a Sequence 1000 5000SEQ22 before instead of it.
- 3 x Octopus pumps on my skimmer (run externally to sump).
I've measured for stray voltage previously and nothing really showed up.

The fish room is in the basement; it's generally pretty sealed from the rest of the basement; but the washing machine is on the other wall from it. An HRV intake vent ensures that the room is kept ventilated. I presume most of the new air in the room comes from the HVAC register in the room. So in other words, from elsewhere in the house and from the HRV bringing new air from outside. There is an HRV intake vent in the same room as the tank as well.

No, we don't really use aerosol air freshners in the house. Any surfaces we'd use cleaners on are far from the tank. My wife leaves cleaning the glass to me, and I spray windex onto a paper towel and wipe/dry the glass. I have a sealed canopy that takes air from the back, so I doubt fumes are getting in. I also don't clean the glass as often as I should. :)

The tank is in the living room which is a pretty big room. We occasionally use a glade plugin airfreshener on the other side of the room from the tank.

No UV sterliizer.

All plumbing is PVC, glued with PVC glue. RO/DI is fed with a copper pipe, but all the plumbing after the first prefilter is standard poly RO hose.

Tyler
 
The damsel looks beat up/partially eatin. Have you checked your tank at night for rouge crabs?
 
First off, simplify: I'd go down to real basics---sand and rock filtation only, with skimmer, autotopoff. No ozone, no orp, nothing, not even a calcium or kalk reactor. Run the tank for a few weeks with just that, hand dosing until you're back in mental touch with the tank's draw on calcium and alk, its evap rate, etc. Test and keep a log, with times of day and date. See how its ph is behaving. Log: temp, ph, salinity, cal, alk, mg. And see how stable it is. Once the chemistry is stable, add a fish or two. Again, observe, log. I'd add the reactors back in, and run with that a while with nothing else. If everything's stable you may end up not needing the other devices at all. HTH.
 
I would put your RO water in a Brute instead of the Roughneck. I believe the Roughnecks leach.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10778080#post10778080 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by prugs
The damsel looks beat up/partially eatin. Have you checked your tank at night for rouge crabs?

This is my QT tank with the 2 damsels (perhaps they beat eachother up), a sailfin, and a clown. Watching it now though; I think the clown is being aggressive towards the others. I think perhaps I'll put an eggcrate divider in the QT tank.

Tyler
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10778093#post10778093 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Sk8r
First off, simplify: I'd go down to real basics---sand and rock filtation only, with skimmer, autotopoff. No ozone, no orp, nothing, not even a calcium or kalk reactor. Run the tank for a few weeks with just that, hand dosing until you're back in mental touch with the tank's draw on calcium and alk, its evap rate, etc. Test and keep a log, with times of day and date. See how its ph is behaving. Log: temp, ph, salinity, cal, alk, mg. And see how stable it is. Once the chemistry is stable, add a fish or two. Again, observe, log. I'd add the reactors back in, and run with that a while with nothing else. If everything's stable you may end up not needing the other devices at all. HTH.

I guess that's the problem; now that I have the tank running and there are fish in it it's kinda hard to go back to square 1 and start from scratch.

I have shut off the ozone, and I am testing my Ca and Alk weekly right now. I do keep all my readings in a log ,along with when I did what maintenance, etc.. So far Alk and Ca have

I do think it might not be a bad idea to shut off the Ca reactor, clean it out completely, and try to monitor my levels on a manual basis for a few weeks to get a feel for my tanks' actual demands. To that end I really do need to pick up a new Magnesium test kit; mine ran out a while ago.

I do have a feeling the ozone may not be needed at all for me... Things seem to be running fine without it. It's one less thing I have to worry about going wrong. One less variable in the overall equation.

Thanks,
tyler
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10778236#post10778236 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mr_o98
I would put your RO water in a Brute instead of the Roughneck. I believe the Roughnecks leach.

I just pulled out the roughneck can and used it to store gravel in the yard. :) Best use for it yet. I'm going to drain and clean my Brute, install my float valve there, and then get a new batch of saltwater going with that.

Tyler
 
Any evidence of this leeching issue with Roughnecks? I use one to mix saltwater in all the time, and its never caused me a problem of which I'm aware. As far as I have heard, the only issue with Roughnecks in comparison with Brutes is that they're kind of flimsy. I would be leery of storing water in one long-term, but only due to fear of it bursting.

That said, if there's evidence to support the claim, I'll rethink using it for saltwater mixing...

jds
 
I'm sorry I can't contribute anything else to the discussion, I wish I could be more help, but I just wanted to add that I've always used a Rubbermaid Roughneck bin for mixing/storing SW, I used a number of Roughneck bins to move my livestock when we moved house, and I've used one as a QT for a friend's fish (emergency situation). Never once had a problem, though I agree they're rather flimsy. I'd say the chances of the container leaching something and causing all your tank's issues are very slim.

I really do hope you find the cause. Don't give up, best of luck :)
 
bureau13,
Yeah, whether or not the cans were the cause of the problem, I don't know. I figure even if its not, the brute is definitely a lot more heavy duty in the long run.

mr_o98,
Further reading confirmed this. Nothing hugely conclusive to say for sure that the roughneck will or will not leach anything, and to what extent. I guess it's always better to be safe than sorry.

ACBlinky,
I'm guessing it's probably not the problem in my case either. But I figured better safe than sorry. I'm really hoping I can get this figured out. Having a healthy and vibrant tank would be nice!!!

Tyler
 
Well my latest QT fiasco is over. I took the clown and electric blue damsel out of QT after I tested the water and realized it was 1.0 nitrites (no ammonia though). And that's after a 50% water change using tank water. So I think when that other damsel died and get stock to the powerhead overnight it must've really started decaying and messing up the water. Yikes! The sailfin unfortunately perished. I'm guessing the nitrite spike did it...

Moral of the story: I will QT smaller amounts of fish in the future. It turns out the clown was the bully; I sat down and watched the tank earlier today and noticed he was chasing the damsel.

Tyler
 
I agree, stop using the ozone stuff. Check your water at a LFS store maybe your test kits are bad. I use Rubbermaid containers for my fresh and salt RO/DI water storage. Make sure you test that water too and often. There could be something bad in the sump. Can you empty clean and start over with that? Also I know some of us like to make our own food, but sometimes it contains bateria. Maybe buying the pre-made sterilized stuff is better for now. If you have the time, stop the top off machines for awhile and monitor the parameters with out them. Which salt are you using? Some are made so well they really keep the water parameters stable between water changes. Good luck I think you on the right track. Do watch for rouge crabs. I am still chasing some of the nasty little buggers in my tank. I check for them everynight and occasionally they stick out too far and come to "Momma" for the last time.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10791935#post10791935 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ginger7286
I agree, stop using the ozone stuff. Check your water at a LFS store maybe your test kits are bad. I use Rubbermaid containers for my fresh and salt RO/DI water storage. Make sure you test that water too and often. There could be something bad in the sump. Can you empty clean and start over with that? Also I know some of us like to make our own food, but sometimes it contains bateria. Maybe buying the pre-made sterilized stuff is better for now. If you have the time, stop the top off machines for awhile and monitor the parameters with out them. Which salt are you using? Some are made so well they really keep the water parameters stable between water changes. Good luck I think you on the right track. Do watch for rouge crabs. I am still chasing some of the nasty little buggers in my tank. I check for them everynight and occasionally they stick out too far and come to "Momma" for the last time.

I am about due for some new test kits as most of mine are running out, so I should probably put in an order for some anyways.

What do you test for in your fresh salt water storage bins? I test the TDS of my RO/DI whenever I make a new batch of saltwater, and I also test the salinity once the batch is mixed.

My sump is 100g, so I'm not sure I want to drain and clean it at this point. :) I usually siphon detritus out of the sump every few weeks. Otherwise it's pretty much a barebottom sump with some live rock stacked up in one corner and some chaeto growing in another.

I've stopped feeding my DIY food for now, ozone is off, and I've swapped around my waterchange bins so I'm only using a Brute for making RO/DI and saltwater. All in the same bin now. I'm hoping these few changes will help things out.

So far so good; the two fish I took out of QT early are doing great in the main tank. Before I try to QT any more fish I think I need to get a MUCH better filter for my QT tank. The little HOB one does not work well at all.

THanks,
Tyler
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10797885#post10797885 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by bunkerboy
Maybe it is as simple as a mold problem in your basement that is getting into the water system... just my $.02. Bunker

I did make sure that the outer wall was well insulated and a vapor barrier installed. In fact, the whole room has vapor barrier behind the drywall.

The HRV keeps the whole house at around 20% humidity in the winter; the fish room is clearly higher than that though..

That said, it wouldn't be a bad idea for me to poke around the fish room and see if there isn't a source of mold somewhere...

Hmm. Actually, that really gets me thinking... I've got two overflow drains, both 1 1/2" lines. One of them has a gate valve near the sump that I use to essentially "dial in" the drain to almost perfectly match the return pump's flow. The other drain acts as an emergency drain. If the main one were to plug completely, the emergency one can take the full flow and then some. Because it's impossible to perfectly balance the main drain, there's almost always a trickle of water down the emergency drain... I wonder if there's something growing in that drain pipe that I don't know about. Interesting thought..

I will have to look up how mold could affect the tank. That's definitely an angle I never thought of before.

Thanks!
Tyler
 
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