Help me pick a second return pump.

So should I get the sp4 and run the accessories and leave the blue line to feed the DT? Or could I get the SP6 and replace the blue line all together and run everything?

I'd get the SP6 and ditch the Blueline. While the Bluelines are great pumps, the SP6 is also a great pump and you will save money on power, simplify your plumbing, decrease noise and decrease heat transfer. No reason to run two pumps in your case if you don't have to.
 
I'd get the SP6 and ditch the Blueline. While the Bluelines are great pumps, the SP6 is also a great pump and you will save money on power, simplify your plumbing, decrease noise and decrease heat transfer. No reason to run two pumps in your case if you don't have to.

I'm sure I could find a new use for the blue line.

You think the sp6 could handle the head pressure?
 
Ehhh.....

The specs on the sp6 says the max head height is 11ft. I may have more than that.
 
the Pan world 150PS delivers 1080 GPH and is capable of 28' of head...mine pushes 850 GPH ( according to the pump curve) 12' to the second floor past 5 90 degree elbows and a check valve all through 3/4" pipe ... with enough to spare to run a carbon and phose ban reactor AND return by pass water to the sump.... before you buy any pump ..pay close attention to the pump curve... some drop off drastically as you get near max head pressure.... a pump with a lesser GPH rating but capable of higher head pressures may in reality deliver more water than a pump capable of twice the flow but much less head...
 
So I bought the sp4, the brs dr, and some carbon and Gfo.

I'm going to run just the display with the blue line and replumb my sump.

Thanks guys!
 
I'm redoing my manifold for hopefully the third and final time:

517688E9-BC70-43C1-AEF6-585D47BB57E5.jpg


Plumbing is not close to being done so ignore the routes.
 
I'm redoing my manifold for hopefully the third and final time:

517688E9-BC70-43C1-AEF6-585D47BB57E5.jpg


Plumbing is not close to being done so ignore the routes.


Hopefully.... I hope I don't throw a monkey wrench in your spokes.

I'd change those ball valves out for gate valves so you have better control over your flow rate.. Ball valves are about the worst way of controlling flow on a manifold. They don't allow for fine enough control where as a gate valve will allow very fine flow control which is a must on a manifold in my experience. Especially for things like carbon and GFO reactors. I'd suggest changing that now if you didn't plan on using gate valves. Otherwise, this likely will not be the last redo of your manifold. Been there done that..
 
Hopefully.... I hope I don't throw a monkey wrench in your spokes.

I'd change those ball valves out for gate valves so you have better control over your flow rate.. Ball valves are about the worst way of controlling flow on a manifold. They don't allow for fine enough control where as a gate valve will allow very fine flow control which is a must on a manifold in my experience. Especially for things like carbon and GFO reactors. I'd suggest changing that now if you didn't plan on using gate valves. Otherwise, this likely will not be the last redo of your manifold. Been there done that..

Eh. I didn't feel like waiting for two days for Amazon to delver the valves. I'll make do.
 
Eh. I didn't feel like waiting for two days for Amazon to delver the valves. I'll make do.

I will look forward to your next manifold version then.. Ball valves are wortheless for GFO and carbon reactors. Especially the ones you have. I have the same ones on my mixing tanks and you cannot adjust them well enough. They become way notchy. You will never get the flow right and will have to constantly adjust them or deal with solidified GFO and or ground up GFO and carbon dust in your system.. Trust me, it's worth the 2 day wait to do it right. Anybody that has run a manifold will tell you the same thing.
 
I will look forward to your next manifold version then.. Ball valves are wortheless for GFO and carbon reactors. Especially the ones you have. I have the same ones on my mixing tanks and you cannot adjust them well enough. They become way notchy. You will never get the flow right and will have to constantly adjust them or deal with solidified GFO and or ground up GFO and carbon dust in your system.. Trust me, it's worth the 2 day wait to do it right. Anybody that has run a manifold will tell you the same thing.

I know, I know. Patience is not one of my virtues. I just ordered some. I'll just use the balls to cut off flow to each one so I don't have to redo the entire thing again.

When u right u right.
 
I know, I know. Patience is not one of my virtues. I just ordered some. I'll just use the balls to cut off flow to each one so I don't have to redo the entire thing again.

When u right u right.

I'm in touch with the lack of patience. Patience isn't one of my virtues either but sometimes you just need to find it within ourself.

I was going to suggest keeping the ball valves and just adding the gate valves. The balls will be useful to cut the flow off without having to readjust the gate valves when you change media. You will be happy you added the gate valves!
 
I'm in touch with the lack of patience. Patience isn't one of my virtues either but sometimes you just need to find it within ourself.

I was going to suggest keeping the ball valves and just adding the gate valves. The balls will be useful to cut the flow off without having to readjust the gate valves when you change media. You will be happy you added the gate valves!

Thanks buddy. Now I just have to find something to do in the mean time. This algae is starting to get on my nerves.

I'm afraid to clean it all right now...
 
Eheim makes a great line. For indestructibility and easy service the Iwaki, but that is an exterior pump better for the basement, because it is incredibly noisy. The Iwaki 100 is about 2300 gph at level. But I would swear by Eheims, too: hard to kill and highly efficient.
 
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