Here we go, my own DIY stand design
- Thread starter Saadatski
- Start date
TheFishMan65
New member
You won't or shouldn't be able to change it. I hope you put a water proof seal on it to protect it. If so this will also keep the stain out (unless you strip it). Do it now if you have not sealed it.
Saadatski
New member
well the inside 2x4s are painted with a dark deck paint by Beher. The outside pine is stained than coated with something called polyurethane, which is a nice finish as well as a waterproof coating. The only thing not waterproofed is the plywood for the sump. I am planning on getting a mat with rubber bottom for it.
TheFishMan65
New member
I think you are stuck with the color.
Saadatski
New member
Just an update on the stand guys...
i filled the tank half way last week and i discovered that the stand is a bit wobbly, so i shimmed it on one side that made it wobbly. This worked perfectly, and i think the only reason why it was wobbly was because the wood warped a bit before i built it.
i just wanted to say that guys, if you are building a stand, make sure you pick good wood at the store, and after that, build it fast and in a place with very low moisture in the air. This can either be a basement or a place with a de-humidifier.
also, guys, the stand is holding REALLY well, and i am very happy with the design. i will prob make an extension on it to hold the ATO container and a cabinet for supplys.
i filled the tank half way last week and i discovered that the stand is a bit wobbly, so i shimmed it on one side that made it wobbly. This worked perfectly, and i think the only reason why it was wobbly was because the wood warped a bit before i built it.
i just wanted to say that guys, if you are building a stand, make sure you pick good wood at the store, and after that, build it fast and in a place with very low moisture in the air. This can either be a basement or a place with a de-humidifier.
also, guys, the stand is holding REALLY well, and i am very happy with the design. i will prob make an extension on it to hold the ATO container and a cabinet for supplys.
Ron Reefman
Active member
Newbie Aquarist
Reefing is my middle name
I have read alot about the foam method. What is it that makes it better for the tank?
Saadatski
New member
oops, no foam for me, i just filled it and its holding really well. Its been runnign for almost a month and its holding the tank and the sump like it owns it.
I have carpet on my flooring, so the stand kind of leveled itself out. I did not need to use shims, and i took them out after i realized they did very little on carpet. i tested its level, it was perfect.
I have carpet on my flooring, so the stand kind of leveled itself out. I did not need to use shims, and i took them out after i realized they did very little on carpet. i tested its level, it was perfect.
Ron Reefman
Active member
Foam will spread the load over the bottom of the tank. If the stand settles or maybe one corner of the stand was only just touching the floor with the weight of the water it drops a little, the foam keeps the load on the bottom of the tank more evenly spread out. No high pressure point and no crack in the glass or split seams.
I have read there is a time and place for foam but not always, its based upon how your tank is built. If your tank has the bottom sitting on your stand and the surrounding glass siliconed on top of the bottom then it needs foam...If your bottom is elevated a little and the surrounding glass is siliconed around the outside then foam is not needed..
TheFishMan65
New member
IIRC it was James (Acrylics) that said the foam was used to even out small imperfection in plywood. A small not could apply uneven pressure and cause issues. Also IIRC he would recommend use neoprene that the others don't do much. And finally I believe it was unbonded (?) neoprene that was best.
Wish I could remember where I read this, but you might ask (again) on the Acrylics Questions thread.
Wish I could remember where I read this, but you might ask (again) on the Acrylics Questions thread.
drywall_guy87
New member
hey buddy do you have a pic looking at the bulkheads from underneath ive got the coner tank to and its messing with me a bit wood is not my thing ive been a metal framer for 11 years but salt and steel studs doesnt sound like a good idea
Just thought I would throw my 2 cents in about the wood used to build your stand, or any stand for that matter.
The humidity at the store is not the same as it is in your home. For best results buy your lumber 2-3 weeks before you build the stand. Let it set in the room that your are going to have the tank in, This will give the wood time to adjust to the humidity in your room.
I have worked wood for over 30 years this is not an opinion.
Also a side note wood will expand in width and thickness. But barely detectable in its length.
The humidity at the store is not the same as it is in your home. For best results buy your lumber 2-3 weeks before you build the stand. Let it set in the room that your are going to have the tank in, This will give the wood time to adjust to the humidity in your room.
I have worked wood for over 30 years this is not an opinion.
Also a side note wood will expand in width and thickness. But barely detectable in its length.
Saadatski
New member
Yeah i had a minor issue with my wood studs warping.
Since you seem like you know a lot about wood, what is a nice looking wood but fairly priced? i know oak is good, but for me to skin the entire stand with solid oak, im looking at $200!!! yikes!
How about oak plywood? anyone tried it and have a pic of it on their stand. Perferably stained?
Since you seem like you know a lot about wood, what is a nice looking wood but fairly priced? i know oak is good, but for me to skin the entire stand with solid oak, im looking at $200!!! yikes!
How about oak plywood? anyone tried it and have a pic of it on their stand. Perferably stained?
Plywood is the most economical way to skin a stand. I my self do not like oak. (beauty is in the eye of the be holder) I would use nothing less than 3/8'' thick. 1/4'' will tend to warp.
When you use plywood you have to deal with the edges, unless you miter every thing.
Pics of your prosesand progress please
When you use plywood you have to deal with the edges, unless you miter every thing.
Pics of your prosesand progress please
reefermad619
New member
If you have access to a real lumberyard, they often have other species of plywood. My local, real lumberyard has different types of mahogany, oak, birch, zebra, and what they don't have in sheets of ply, they have in veneer. What I would do is get a 4x8 sheet of ply, have it ripped into strips, cut the strips down to fit, then trim it out to cover the edge.
