Here we go, my own DIY stand design
- Thread starter Saadatski
- Start date
SpacedCowboy
New member
I used normal 2x4's - I didn't bother with the pressure-treated variety. I knew I was going to waterproof the insides anyway, so didn't see the point.
I'm also not aware of *precisely* which chemicals are forced into the wood under pressure to render it less likely to rot. Given that water can splash and drip, I didn't want anything around the sump that I wasn't confident would be ok. Some reef fauna are amazingly sensitive to some chemicals and will die at the drop of a hat if they're exposed to the smallest dose...
Simon
jcolletteiii
New member
Ever wonder why PT lumber is green? What metal oxidizes green? Cu!
SpacedCowboy
New member
[grin] I suspected as much, but lots of chemicals are green, if I remember my inorganic chemistry chemcal-recognition titration tables
Simon.
Saadatski
New member
Chlorine is also green, i know that for a fact, thanks to my Honors Chemistry class last year .
but i think that when they say pressure treated, the wood is just more dense than regular wood, giving it more strength, but that's what i think.
Off to home depot, will keep you guys posted on the stand build and will add pics.
.but i think that when they say pressure treated, the wood is just more dense than regular wood, giving it more strength, but that's what i think.
Off to home depot, will keep you guys posted on the stand build and will add pics.
jcolletteiii
New member
No - it's generally a copper compound (unless you're talking about landscape timbers). PT lumber is put in a bath containing one or more of the following in a solution with water: "Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA-C), Alkaline Copper Quat (ACQ-C, ACQ-D, ACQ-D Carbonate), Micronized Copper Quat (MCQ), Copper Azole (CBA-A & CA-B) and Sodium Borates (SBX/DOT)." High pressure is then applied and the chemicals are forced into the pores in the wood.
I think you'd be able to smell chlorine, and I would also think it would degrade the wood. I'd stay away from PT lumber - the pressure treatment is mainly for keeping insects away, it is no more waterproof that regular lumber. PT feels 'more dense' than regular dimensional lumber because it is usually quite wet. If you build something like a tank stand that requires fairly close tolerances with wet wood, when it dries out you can have all kinds of problems - shrinking, bowing, cupping, etc., throwing your dimensions off.
I think you'd be able to smell chlorine, and I would also think it would degrade the wood. I'd stay away from PT lumber - the pressure treatment is mainly for keeping insects away, it is no more waterproof that regular lumber. PT feels 'more dense' than regular dimensional lumber because it is usually quite wet. If you build something like a tank stand that requires fairly close tolerances with wet wood, when it dries out you can have all kinds of problems - shrinking, bowing, cupping, etc., throwing your dimensions off.
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RichConley
New member
You've got about 10 times the wood you need, and thats going to heavily decrease the amount of space you have for sump/equipment.
You can build a stand for a 180 with just 3/4" plywood. There's no real need for 2x6s in any consumer sized tank.
Ron Reefman
Active member
Here are some of the old build photos. The stand is just short of 11' long and 30" deep. I wanted room to work near the tanks, so there is a front ledge and a small work area at the left hand end. The flexible pvc is wrapped over the top of the 1/2" plywood wall and tacked into place on the outside of the stand. I used pipe insullation to give the upper edge a softer and protected edge. This design has been in use for a year now and I have had no problems with the liner. I have had an external pump leak that was contained and a GFO reactor hose that came undone and spilled water into the liner. That would have been a mess as about 5-8 gallons of water was in the liner. And because I live in SW Florida I have tile floors. I would think this kind of protection would be something everybody with a wood or carpeted floor would want.
The stand is still unskinned but I now have a canopy over the 180g. It's made with 1.5" x 1.5" pvc, plywood and two 2" x 2" aluminum stock to support the plywood. The stand will get skinned soon and have very large removable cloth doors and a tiled top counter.
The stand is still unskinned but I now have a canopy over the 180g. It's made with 1.5" x 1.5" pvc, plywood and two 2" x 2" aluminum stock to support the plywood. The stand will get skinned soon and have very large removable cloth doors and a tiled top counter.
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TruReef
New member
yes I did use a center brace. better safe than sorry..
Saadatski
New member
most definitely my friend, i would have added a center brace with a tank that big and heavy also
Just wanted to keep you guys posted on the stand, sorry it wasnt complete. had some financial issues that i had to work out cause my dad refused to pay anymore for my tank, even though he loves it and supports me. i had to work a bit extra last week for the tank and the sump and stand.
No doors yet, getting them soon though!
reefermad619
New member
I only see one problem... It's empty!
Saadatski
New member
Going ot fix that problem soon, dont worry lol.
I went to home Depot today and i asked about cabinet doors. They said i would pay $300 for doors with hindges. I just got up quietly and left.
Im obv not going to pay that much for some doors, so anyone know how to make nice looking doors themselves?
I went to home Depot today and i asked about cabinet doors. They said i would pay $300 for doors with hindges. I just got up quietly and left.
Im obv not going to pay that much for some doors, so anyone know how to make nice looking doors themselves?
TheFishMan65
New member
Saadatski,
That is the the design you showed in your last diagram. Nothing is supporting that front 2x4. Looking again: is that just the skin?
That is the the design you showed in your last diagram. Nothing is supporting that front 2x4. Looking again: is that just the skin?
Saadatski
New member
Look at the frame only and you will see that the front 2x4s are supported by the purple studs which are nailed to the green screwboards
nemosworld
Active member
Looking good, only thing i would have done diff, is the way you attached the skin. I would have glued them in rather than use screws. Wood glue is very strong. And would looked better. Good job though.
TheFishMan65
New member
I think that is what confused me. Also for skinning I would have tried to use one piece so there would be no seem, but it costs a little more.
TheFishMan65
New member
You have to watch stain. Different woods absorb it at a different rate. The same stain will look very different on pine verse oak. And then add in the starting color of the wood. I always try a sample first now.
