Heteractis magnifca tank build

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14414025#post14414025 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Rod Buehler
The edges were a little dim when I had my 3x3 with a lumenbright but not too bad. I wouldnt hesitate to do it again.

I didnt have any supplimentation lighting so I cant help there. I went from a 400 standard M-59 down to a 250 HQI and got more light/PAR out of the trade. At least when I was using XM 10KK. When I went back to the reeflux, I am sure that I lost some PAR but the tank looked better since I wasnt using any actinic.

So Rod, you got more PAR out of a 250 than a 400? Was that mostly due to the type of bulb being used?
 
Great info Captive. You almost make me want to try again. However it seems that in the twin cities area the LFS' rarely have a selection to chose from. Sure wish I had that option of selection.
 
i set up my initial 120 gallon tank with a magnifica in mind, and followed the same protocol with my current miniature 60 gallon.

lots of variable flow. 400w halide. 20k bulb. good filtration. good skimming. lots of water movement. high rock pillar with smooth surface at the top.

and its worked out very well. once these guys settle in, they are pretty bullet proof in my experience. powerheads, high nitrates, lack of light, power outtages, interceptor, low magnesium, high magnesium, cold water and alkalinity swings dont seem to phase them.

as mentioned earlier, finding the healthy ones are a key, if not THE key. i tried a multitude of online sources and failed at every single one of them. i tried a multitude of specimens from local stores and failed. the key is watching one at a local store and recognizing the minute details of its behavior. the biggest red flag for me is an anemone that deflates. they sure look rough when they first come in, sure, but after that, theyd better stay inflated for days on end. flat flimsy hollow looking tentacles are another key sign for a soon to be dead anemone.

watch out for those two particulars.

im really looking forward to seeing how this tank turns out! good luck!
 
Nice tank.
Good luck.
I would use a 400W MH without supplement with T5. The problem is getting a healthy H. magnifica if you are in a small city. Large city, you won't have much problem.
 
Thank you for all of the advice. I greatly appreciate it. I think I'll go with the 400W MH. I am still undecided on whether to buy the T5's or not.

As for finding a specimen, the best lfs in the Austin area makes special orders upon request and I have seen many magnificas go through them. I imagine Matt at Austin Aquafarms could get me one. But it will be a while until I feel I'm ready to order one once the tank is running smoothly.
 
Tufa-

Your welcome , I have tried very hard to do homework and ensure my new friends survival. Anyone with any other questions feel free to ask. Oh and when ya get a chance Gig how about a few update photo's if ya have any yet :rollface:
 
Sure I'll get photos posted as soon as possible. Problem is my current aquarium is in the spot where my new one needs to go and I can't transfer everything over until I have all the equipment and lights ready. Being a working college student I have to pay bills and use whatever is left to save up to buy what I need, and that can take a couple of weeks :( Plus the aquarium still has a couple weeks until it is ready to have water in it according to the folks at Glass cages.
Patience is a virtue in this hobby :cool:
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14447243#post14447243 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by apayne
Nice set up, I think you need a few more student loans to build your tank, HAHA

HA! Lets not go there:rollface:
 
Haha yeah a little too late for that. I have an external overflow on my current 55, but I thought I would try a built in on this one
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14435109#post14435109 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Ron Popeil
i set up my initial 120 gallon tank with a magnifica in mind, and followed the same protocol with my current miniature 60 gallon.

lots of variable flow. 400w halide. 20k bulb. good filtration. good skimming. lots of water movement. high rock pillar with smooth surface at the top.

and its worked out very well. once these guys settle in, they are pretty bullet proof in my experience. powerheads, high nitrates, lack of light, power outtages, interceptor, low magnesium, high magnesium, cold water and alkalinity swings dont seem to phase them.

as mentioned earlier, finding the healthy ones are a key, if not THE key. i tried a multitude of online sources and failed at every single one of them. i tried a multitude of specimens from local stores and failed. the key is watching one at a local store and recognizing the minute details of its behavior. the biggest red flag for me is an anemone that deflates. they sure look rough when they first come in, sure, but after that, theyd better stay inflated for days on end. flat flimsy hollow looking tentacles are another key sign for a soon to be dead anemone.

watch out for those two particulars.

im really looking forward to seeing how this tank turns out! good luck!

I thought the same thing regarding once acclimated, they were pretty tough.... But this last week was counter to that theory.

I've had mine for 3 years as of Mar 10th. Its currently in a 120 SPS display, 170 total system volume. 4 Tunze 6000 Streams (1850 gph each) on multicontroller two on/two off, 1 Koralia 4 (1200 gph) and 960 gph (measured) from return pump to display via Wavy Sea. Tank lit by dual 250 watt 10k SE XM's in LumenMax pendants. A week ago , (Tues or Weds) we had a lengthy power outtage ( about 8 hours) I have automatic battery powered air pumps that kick on in the event of a power outtage, to provide O2 to the tank, (2 for the display). No livestock issues due to the outtage.....however, my Co2 solenoid remained closed when the power returned, and I did not notice this.
On Thursday, (7-8 days after outtage), I realized my H.mag really looked unhappy. It was deflated and the tentacles were completely deflated as well, but the mouth was tight. The lights were going off shortly, and I know it will occassionally, (once in a blue moon kinda thing) deflate while expelling waste...but the tentacles have never done this.......so I didnt get too worried or check parameters. Corals looked fine as did clams so I wasnt too worried. Middle of the night, I realized I hadnt checked my calcium reactor after the outtage. I ran downstairs and found the solenoid closed, (no bubbles in bubble counter, but plenty of pressure showing on gauges). Got it working and went back to bed. Friday, after work, came back, it still looked unhappy, but better. The reactor had been running again for 12 hours now. Water tests showed:

Dkh currently at 6.5 down from 11
Ca currently at 350 from 420

Today Dkh is 7.5
Ca is 385

The anemone looks normal/great today.

I have refugium which is lit 24 hours to prevent pH swings. Nothing else deviated from normal during this period. One poccillipora lost a little tissue from the Dkh drop.

All I can assume from this is that they are in fact somewhat sensitive to Dkh drops......unless someone has a different theory?

Nick
 
Nick, that's a pretty scary/close call. I'm glad everything worked out for you and that it is returning back to health. Thank you for your advice and input on other factors that magnificas are sensitive to, it's much appreciated.
Do you by any chance have a picture?
 
I have some of the anemone today, but not of when it wasnt doing well...

Today

Ritteri6.JPG


Ritteri5.JPG


Full tank

FT_02-23-2009.JPG


I dont view it as a close call per se....It wasnt happy, but it has bounced back quickly. I view this more as a "canary in a coalmine" type of situation. I had always viewed the anemone as resistant to Dkh swings, and in a sense it is, since it recovered with no issues. But now, I know it will show me that its not happy with certain water parameter changes that I didnt think affected it.

Nick
 
Very nice anemone Nick, even when it's not entirely happy still. What color is it's foot?

On another note I think I'll be ordering my lights next week, so the project should be pushing ahead again soon. :celeb1:
 
Brownish Yellow. I've heard that color called "common", but I;ve never seen two H.mags colored the same. Thanks for the compliments.

Nick
 
Here's a design of the tank and stand. I don't know if I like how tall it is. The hood adds an extra 21 inches to to height of the setup because I'm allowing 12 inches between the surface of the water and the bottom of the 400W lumen bright pendant. I'm debating just hanging the light from the ceiling and having it be an open top, but I think that will take away from the simplicity look I'm shooting for. I think I may take apart the stand and shave a couple inches off the height. Any opinions, advice, or suggestions?

P1040430.jpg
 
My tank is a 120, (48x24x24) on a 41 inch tall stand. I love the height of the system....My anemone is right about head height.
I think you should keep the stand at that height, build a box for the lighting to keep with the clean modern look, and suspend it from the ceiling to prevent heat issues.

Nick
 
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