Thanks for the advice Flighty, next fall when I'm completely settled and ready again I'll definitely try that.
Klownfish- Thanks for comments. I wasn't necessarily trying to scare anyone out of trying to keep this animal, but it is good to be well aware of the difficulties that these animals inherit. I hope people will read this thread and think twice before ordering this animal if they are not completely prepared to keep this species and the complications that arise with it.
As a short conclusion to this small adventure I would like to summarize some of the requirements/steps to better their chance at survival that I have put together from personal experience and what I have researched over the years:
Setup and Requirements:
1. Tank Volume: These anemones tend to create a lot of waste and can grow quite large. Around 75 total gallons is adequate for a while, but IMO anything over 100 gallons is more sustainable in the long run.
2. Lighting: Most people tend to agree that H. magnifica's prefer point source lighting of a metal halide lamp. The wattage of the lamps depends on the individual anemone. T5 lights are Possible, but not recommended and Power Compacts are doubtfully powerful enough for the zooxanthellae to efficiently photosynthesize.
3. Flow: These anemones enjoy a great amount of random flow around their tentacles. Flow directed straight at the foot is not recommended, but positioned so that the current lifts the tentacles up and gently pushes them from side to side simulating strong ocean currents created by waves over the reef.
4. Position: Most owners tend to put the anemone at the top of the rock work, usually on a rock pedestal to keep away from other corals. These anemones prefer to be upright as if there was an imaginary rod running from it's mouth to the center of it's foot. Some anemones like BTA's prefer anchoring their foot in a vertical crevice and stretching 90 degrees towards the light, this is not the case the H. magnifica's. Putting the anemone on a smooth and wide bowl/plate is good because there is no threat of creatures in the rock being trapped under the anemone's foot trying to bite their way out. This is also helpful for easy moving and positioning of the anemone as some rocks are large and awkwardly shaped to move.
Buying:
It is good to special order from a lfs by requesting that they order a SMALL H. mag when they first become available to insure that the anemone has not been sitting idly in a holding facility somewhere where they don't get enough light and are subjected to disease. A small H. mag is recommended because they don't create as much waste to create a nitrate spike during shipment and they usually tend to acclimate much easier and arrive healthier than their larger counter parts.
It is not recommended to buy these anemones from an online vendow. Though some may be healthy, the fact that you cannot see the anemone yourself and judge it's health is a large risk. You are also unaware of the quality of the distribution facilities they are coming from which may cause the anemone to pick up a disease or digress in health while there.
Acclimation:
1. Medication: Once the anemone is in your possession I recommend treating it with doxcycline to kill some strains of harmful bacteria that may have infected the anemone. about 10 ml per gallon is recommended; mix in a clean bucket or aquarium, add an air stone for air and water circulation, and only put the anemone in the solution, do not put water from the bag into the bucket. Allow the anemone to cure for 7-12 hours and do any water changes if the water becomes cloudy. After the time is up transfer the anemone (without curing water) into a quarantine tank.
2. Nutrition: In the quarantine tank it is suggested to dose a small amount of Reef Plus Vitamin and Amino Acid Supplement. This is unproven, but IMO I believe the addition of this amino acid mix can give the anemone some nourishment that it needs. Please do not feed the anemone any solid food, this can introduce pathogens into the animal and stress it to death.
3. Lighting: Do not blast the anemone with as much light as possible. The anemone has not seen much light from 1-3 weeks of time. It must be re-acclimated to light again. Start with a low PAR and short time intervals that the light is on. Slowly, over the course of a couple weeks, increase the photo period and PAR to bring the anemone's light toleration up to it's max potential.
4. Moving: Once acclimated transfer the anemone to the desired location in the aquarium. Wait for about a month or more until you feed the anemone solid food. Start with small doses of mysis shrimp and slowly progress from there.
I hope my small list is helpful and if you mag owners have anything to add or change I welcome the comments. I'm thinking of compiling a list on a different thread to re-direct people to who have questions about taking care of this species.
Thank you
