Fishmaster13
New member
If it's serious you could add some AmQuell to the tank to temporarily lower it but you'll probably have to do it with RODI water changes
High Nitrates - Immediate Removal?
- Thread starter Xxero
- Start date
Juggernaut63
New member
Are you mixing your own water for water changes? There could be chloramine in your watter supply and if your rodi doesn't have the right carbon block these could easily drive nitrates.
Try testing your water supply for chloramine or do a water change with natural sea water.
Try testing your water supply for chloramine or do a water change with natural sea water.
Xxero
New member
Yes. I mix my own for water changes using Reef Crystals, but I get my water from my LFS. I've never done a TDS reading on their water, but I have also wondered if this could be a contributing factor.
An RO/DI unit will be my next purchase.
In regards to natural sea water, are you speaking of the stuff they sell at Petco? Because I live in Oklahoma City and a trip to the beach won't be happening anytime soon. :bigeyes:
I'm going to do another water change tomorrow and then begin vinegar dosing. Between the DT and the sump minus rock/substrate, I believe I have about 40-45 gallons of water. I'm going to start vinegar dosing with 2ml Day 1.
Think 2ml is okay? Too much? Too little?
This article gives a very conservative schedule for vinegar dosing:
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index...ar-dosing-methodology-for-the-marine-aquarium
I think it recommends about 1.5 ml for that size tank, but 2 ml should be safe enough.
http://reefkeeping.com/joomla/index...ar-dosing-methodology-for-the-marine-aquarium
I think it recommends about 1.5 ml for that size tank, but 2 ml should be safe enough.
Xxero
New member
* Nitrate Update *
* Nitrate Update *
I just wanted to post an update on my nitrate situation, and note some changes that I've seen. I'm at the 4 week mark trying to lower my nitrates, and maybe just today there has been a slight budge in the actual numbers.
PARAMETERS:
My Tests
sg = 1.026
ph = 8.2
alk = 13 dkh
cal = 500
mag = 1320
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 35
phos = < 0.25
LFS's Tests
sg = 1.024
ph = 8.2
alk = 13 dkh
cal = 420
mag= (don't test)
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 30
phos = .25
My LFS tested the nitrates 2 weeks ago and they read 35. Today their test read 30, so I'm hoping (wishing) the nitrates are beginning to lower. My tests are still holding firm at 35 though, so I'm not getting too excited.
I haven't done anything differently yet. I did not add a sulfur denitrator, nor did I begin a vinegar dosing schedule. I wanted to see if the current changes that I have made would have some kind of effect first.
Changes that I have noticed:
* Cutting back on feeding has made all of the tank inhabitants a lot more active! Everything is paying more attention to the rock, glass, sand, and equipment. The overall look of the tank has never been tidier!
* I'm not having to clean the glass nearly as often, and I attribute this to a drop in phosphates. They were at 1 a week ago, and now they are almost undetectable. In the pics from the previous post, you can see this rusty brown algae covering the rock on the far left. My Turbo snail munched it all down one night, and it never came back!
* My Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp has moved to the front of the above mentioned rock. I have had him for months, and he has always stayed behind the middle rock at the back of the tank. This is a change that I can't quite figure out, but I like it! He's front row center now, and open for business!
* All of my snails used to have hair algae on their shells. Not anymore.
* The Grape Caulerpa macro algae that I added to the fuge portion of my sump is bo0OMing!
* The Oolite DSB addition to the sump went through a brief diatom dusting. Small bubbles continue to come up through the sand, and more critters are beginning to make little tunnel burrows. I don't know if the DSB is helping or not, but the refugium is one of my favorite things to look at now. It makes me want a display fuge tied into the overall system.
* The water is crystal clear. This can probably be attributed to all of the water changes that I have gone through recently.
Okay, that's about it. Picture time! :bigeyes:
* Nitrate Update *
I just wanted to post an update on my nitrate situation, and note some changes that I've seen. I'm at the 4 week mark trying to lower my nitrates, and maybe just today there has been a slight budge in the actual numbers.
PARAMETERS:
My Tests
sg = 1.026
ph = 8.2
alk = 13 dkh
cal = 500
mag = 1320
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 35
phos = < 0.25
LFS's Tests
sg = 1.024
ph = 8.2
alk = 13 dkh
cal = 420
mag= (don't test)
ammonia = 0
nitrite = 0
nitrate = 30
phos = .25
My LFS tested the nitrates 2 weeks ago and they read 35. Today their test read 30, so I'm hoping (wishing) the nitrates are beginning to lower. My tests are still holding firm at 35 though, so I'm not getting too excited.
I haven't done anything differently yet. I did not add a sulfur denitrator, nor did I begin a vinegar dosing schedule. I wanted to see if the current changes that I have made would have some kind of effect first.
Changes that I have noticed:
* Cutting back on feeding has made all of the tank inhabitants a lot more active! Everything is paying more attention to the rock, glass, sand, and equipment. The overall look of the tank has never been tidier!
* I'm not having to clean the glass nearly as often, and I attribute this to a drop in phosphates. They were at 1 a week ago, and now they are almost undetectable. In the pics from the previous post, you can see this rusty brown algae covering the rock on the far left. My Turbo snail munched it all down one night, and it never came back!
* My Scarlet Skunk Cleaner Shrimp has moved to the front of the above mentioned rock. I have had him for months, and he has always stayed behind the middle rock at the back of the tank. This is a change that I can't quite figure out, but I like it! He's front row center now, and open for business!
* All of my snails used to have hair algae on their shells. Not anymore.
* The Grape Caulerpa macro algae that I added to the fuge portion of my sump is bo0OMing!
* The Oolite DSB addition to the sump went through a brief diatom dusting. Small bubbles continue to come up through the sand, and more critters are beginning to make little tunnel burrows. I don't know if the DSB is helping or not, but the refugium is one of my favorite things to look at now. It makes me want a display fuge tied into the overall system.
* The water is crystal clear. This can probably be attributed to all of the water changes that I have gone through recently.
Okay, that's about it. Picture time! :bigeyes:
Have you ever tested the water you are putting into the tank? Because if your water is high in nitrates to start with then your water changes are only making the problem worse every time. And have you ever looked into an ATS. Great way to get rid of nitrates. And the higher the nitrates the faster it will grow.
Looking at the pic of your sump, your chaeto ball looks a little dense-- is it growing (and/or rolling) in your sump?? It doesn't have to roll but if it isn't, you may want to flip it every other day or so. This may spur new growth.
If it isn't growing much... about my only suggestion is to spread it out some so more of it is getting light and perhaps lower your refugium light (what are you lighting it with also)... I like to light mine 16 to 18 hours per day opposite my tank lights but with some overlap.... the goal is to get it to grow out and harvest regularly.
(Yes this is Spuds first post at reef central in 6 years)
If it isn't growing much... about my only suggestion is to spread it out some so more of it is getting light and perhaps lower your refugium light (what are you lighting it with also)... I like to light mine 16 to 18 hours per day opposite my tank lights but with some overlap.... the goal is to get it to grow out and harvest regularly.
(Yes this is Spuds first post at reef central in 6 years)
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Xxero
New member
I've never tested the LFS water, but I have been wondering about this as well. I should have my RO/DI unit within the next week, so I know that will only help things to improve.
And yes, adding an ATS is definitely a consideration. I like the idea of them even without my current nitrate issue. This morning I noticed on one of my LFS's main softie tanks, that they have a large dual chamber Whisper Bio-wheel type hang-on filter on the back. The Bio-wheels have been removed, and the chambers had macro-algae growing out of them spilling into the display. I hadn't noticed it before, but it's serving as an ATS and doing a good job of it!
Xxero
New member
Hi Spuds! The Chaeto doesn't tumble, but I do turn it every now and again. I haven't seen much growth in the Chaeto so far, but the Grape Caulerpa inside of it is growing really well. I'm wondering if it's out competing the Chaeto?
The light I'm using down there is just a screw-in 60w/900 lumens GE Daylight LED bulb, and I usually have it hanging about 7 inches from the water surface. I also run mine opposite the DT light schedule at about 15 hours a day. I've been wanting to give one of these bulbs a try:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAR38-E27-54W-18-3W-Red-Blue-LED-Grow-Light-Veg-Flower-Hydroponic-Lamp-85-265V-/291618222699?hash=item43e5ccf26b:g:8b0AAOSwFGNWTCLd
More pics because I like pics:
The Grapes have spread to the other rocks!
Emerald Crab playing peek-a-boo. :bigeyes:
I think you might get better growth with a more intense light-- While it is a small refugium, the light isn't very intense--- I'm thinking something more like this...
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/1602/FC40-FEIS40W50.html
I picked up a couple similar to that for mine at Menards for about $15 each if I remember correctly-- I think one would do fine over that fuge-- mine is appoximately 60 gallons and I run 2 over it.
If you go LED-- I would go with 2- 75 or 100W equivalent-- but this will consume nearly as much power as the above but can cost more to purchase.
https://www.1000bulbs.com/product/1602/FC40-FEIS40W50.html
I picked up a couple similar to that for mine at Menards for about $15 each if I remember correctly-- I think one would do fine over that fuge-- mine is appoximately 60 gallons and I run 2 over it.
If you go LED-- I would go with 2- 75 or 100W equivalent-- but this will consume nearly as much power as the above but can cost more to purchase.
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NedFlounders
New member
Another suggestion is to siphon the bottom of the overflow. I had high nitrates last year and nothing seemed to keep them low. Once I siphoned out the bottom of the overflow, they went away quickly. So much "gunk" got siphoned out and it really smelled too :| Apparently, all sorts of waste/food, etc had collected in the bottom and gotten out of control. Just my two cents, but it fixed my nitrate issues.
Shortly afterward, I also added a refugium to the sump.
As a sidenote, read up on the disadvantages of grape caulerpa as opposed to strictly chaeto. I had a mixture of both at first but soon after removed all the caulerpa.
Shortly afterward, I also added a refugium to the sump.
As a sidenote, read up on the disadvantages of grape caulerpa as opposed to strictly chaeto. I had a mixture of both at first but soon after removed all the caulerpa.
Xxero
New member
So do you think I should pass on this bulb:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PAR38-E27-54W-18-3W-Red-Blue-LED-Grow-Light-Veg-Flower-Hydroponic-Lamp-85-265V-/291618222699?hash=item43e5ccf26b:g:8b0AAOSwFGNWTCLd
I really was going to try one out. I've read good reviews, but if I could get just as good/if not better growth with that 60w Spiral then so be it.
Xxero
New member
I'll check out the bottom of the overflow box on my next water change, but I cleaned the whole contraption not too long ago. And you're right...a lot of funky junk does collect down there. The same stuff seems to build up over time under my skimmer too. Another benefit of reduced feedings is that I haven't had to rinse out the overflow filter sponge nearly as often. That's been nice.
And I wish you wouldn't have mentioned the disadvantages of Caulerpa because now I'm going to go read a lot of nightmarish tales. I already know that there's a risk of it spreading to the DT. And I've also heard that it can go sexual and possibly cause some issues. But the advantages that I like personally are that they tend to root, spread, and proliferate rapidly. I know that can be potentially a bad thing too, but I'm just going to keep a sharp eye on it. I have also read that they gobble up nitrates like mad (even more so than Chaetomorpha), so I'm hoping it will help with my situation. If things get crazy, I'll pluck it all out fer sure!
Thanks for the replies, fish people! Now I'm off to read about Caulerpa. :lmao:
potatocouch
Member
Xxero, I'm with you.. My nitrate is way higher than yours ... staggering 80 ppm or above.
Acro brown up and am currently doing NoPox dosing. We'll see how it goes.
Acro brown up and am currently doing NoPox dosing. We'll see how it goes.
Xxero
New member
How long have you been dosing the NoPox? Let me know how that goes.
I'm going to test my water tomorrow and have my LFS test again as well. If nothing has changed, then I'm going to begin vinegar dosing this weekend. I skipped my normal water change last week to see if that might help balance things out and let some of the new biological get settled in.
I'm veerrry curious as to what my test results are going to be. Hopefully it will show some positive signs. :bigeyes:
Xxero
New member
Nitrate Stalemate
Nitrate Stalemate
So, it's been a month since adding the deep sand bed, the Phosguard, and the De-Nitrate and my nitrates still read at 30-35 ppm. I've tested several times during the in-between, but they have never fluctuated even once.
I recently:
* have been performing 10 gallon weekly water changes (up from 5g).
* added 10 more pounds of cycled Live Rock to my display tank.
* added a stronger bulb to my fuge light fixture.
* purchased a different brand of test kit (hoping this was just a case of bad test kit.....it wasn't. :facepalm
.
Today I'm going to perform a 30% water change (15 gallons), and then begin a vinegar dosing schedule starting at 1.5 ml. On a side note, my refugium is getting pretty interesting:
Can you make wine from these grapes?
Pods & worms are all over the place and so funny to watch!
Good grape!
Nitrate Stalemate
So, it's been a month since adding the deep sand bed, the Phosguard, and the De-Nitrate and my nitrates still read at 30-35 ppm. I've tested several times during the in-between, but they have never fluctuated even once.
I recently:
* have been performing 10 gallon weekly water changes (up from 5g).
* added 10 more pounds of cycled Live Rock to my display tank.
* added a stronger bulb to my fuge light fixture.
* purchased a different brand of test kit (hoping this was just a case of bad test kit.....it wasn't. :facepalm
.Today I'm going to perform a 30% water change (15 gallons), and then begin a vinegar dosing schedule starting at 1.5 ml. On a side note, my refugium is getting pretty interesting:
Can you make wine from these grapes?
Pods & worms are all over the place and so funny to watch!
Good grape!
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