high nitrates in QT

ecomdesign

New member
I setup a 30 gallon QT up 2 1/2 weeks ago. I have a HOB aquaclear 50 filter with a filter sponge and carbon, a air bubbler with foam filter sponges and 1 powerhead for movement. I put 1 very small hippo tang and 1 coral beauty in there. My nitrates are over 50ppm. The tang has gotten ICH. I think its probably due to the high nitrates. My LFS has recommended use copper to treat the ich, but I want to get nitrates under control first.

Water changes havent helped to bring them down. I did 1 60% change a 2 20% changes. Should I keep doing the water changes, or is there anything else I could try?
 
How old is the filter media in the hob and the foam filter? both could be sources for your nitrate problem if they are from an old system. If they are new its hard to imagine they could be producing that many nitrates already.
 
they are both new. I did use SeaChems "Stability" to help eliminate a cycle. I wonder if that could be the cause. I just did a 10 gal water change. I think the best bet is to discontinue using the stability and see what happens?
 
50 ppm will not bother the fish. I would be very careful in monitoring the ammonia level however.

I would add a couple of pieces of live rock to the qt from the display tank.

Some tangs do not do well with copper treatments--IMO you are better to hyposalinate.

If you hyposalinate the live rock can stay in the qt--if you use copper it must be removed.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14829073#post14829073 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ecomdesign
my ammonia has never gotten to toxic levels. I hardly have ever gotten a reading.

the nitrates had to come from somewhere;)
 
I agree 100% with the good Capn. Nitrate in a saltwater tank is really not an issue for vertebrates. In a QT that size, especially with a sick fish, you'll want to do a lot of water changes, though. Water quality can deteriorate very quickly, and any ammonia reading on a hobby grade test kit can be harmful, so you'll want to stay ahead of that.

I don't know much about Stability or its effectiveness, but a new filter will take time to become an effective biological filter. The carbon will help remove some of the ammonia and dissolved organics in the mean time, but very regular water changes are key. I'll generally do 10% every couple of days when I have fish in QT.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14829384#post14829384 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by IslandCrow
I agree 100% with the good Capn. Nitrate in a saltwater tank is really not an issue for vertebrates. In a QT that size, especially with a sick fish, you'll want to do a lot of water changes, though. Water quality can deteriorate very quickly, and any ammonia reading on a hobby grade test kit can be harmful, so you'll want to stay ahead of that.

I don't know much about Stability or its effectiveness, but a new filter will take time to become an effective biological filter. The carbon will help remove some of the ammonia and dissolved organics in the mean time, but very regular water changes are key. I'll generally do 10% every couple of days when I have fish in QT.

thanks Mike--right back at you for good advice too:cool:

I find this little indicator great for a qt for monitoring water changes

ammonia.jpg
 
The fact that your nitrate is high and your ammonia is low would seem to suggest an active and healthy bio-filter. I don't suspect that is the problem.

What are you using for water purification?
 
It is not at all unusual for a QT with fish to have high nitrates. A mechanical filter is converting ammonia to nitrate and that is its job. It won't reduce nitrate as it is not designed to do so. For the fish the nitrates are no problem and they are not responsible for the ich outbreak. If you use copper or hypo in the QT then the biofilter will also die and then you want to be really concerned about watching ammonia levels. Ammonia does kill fish. If ammonia starts to show up do large, 50% or more, water changes to keep it under control. Don't add LR to a treated tank as it will also die and make ammonia problems worse.
 
thanks for all the great info! I use a similar monitor as above on my QT. I dont trust it 100%, so I still test amonia 1-2 times a week. I guess I have to decide...copper or hypo???
 
Copper can be absorbed by the tank silicone and then unintentionally re-released when using it for a QT later. If treating with copper, it is better to have a dedicated hospital tank for this purpose.
 
I treated my fish with CopperSafe and had nothing but a BIG problem with my NH3 and NO2 constantly being very high even with daily 50% w/c. In addition she ended up with fin rot because of ammonia being so high all the time. I know I wont treat ICH if I ever have the problem again with a copper treatment. My fish is finally ready to go back to display tank...hopefully she will make the change and stay health.
 
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