Higher Calcium Level for SPS Growth? (vs Health)

[moatdaddy]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C61DTnWKGjc

check out the 7 minute mark. these guys did some testing on the T5 alone with no LED. Six inches down 570 PAR in middle. So i think even I underestimated the power of the newer ATI fixtures.

 

[Wally.B]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C61DTnWKGjc

check out the 7 minute mark. these guys did some testing on the T5 alone with no LED. Six inches down 570 PAR in middle. So i think even I underestimated the power of the newer ATI fixtures.

Yes Brandon,

T5 is in my opinion the best lighting for intensity and light distribution across a tank.

My other tank is actually mostly T5. One Pair of non dimmable T5's and One pair of dimmable T5's. With a single LED Kessil for the shimmer. And a couple of LED strips for Blue and moon lighting.

I really detailed my lighting setup in this thread if you are interested:

★Ultimate DIY Lighting Canopy★ (T5,Kessil, T5 Dimmable, LED, LED) Combo: THE JOURNEY

After that thread I did rent a Apogee PAR meter and get specs, but with Kessil the PARs are not truly measurable with the UV leds.

That tank is doing pretty good since that Lighting Overhaul I also have a thread for that tank as I'm just embarking on raising Zoa's and Acans. (new area). It is mostly LPS with Frogspawn, Hammers, and Torches, etc.

The only downside which I really hate about T5's is the need to replace the bulbs every 6-8 Months. I can go probably go a year, since I don't use them for a full day with the combination I have. (My bulbs will be coming up for replacement shortly...A time I really hate, but for that tank it's fine since I love the lighting controls and variations.)

 

[Wally.B]

Acro Just Bleached overnight?? (Caught on Time lapse Camera)

I don't know what to say. An Acro that I got about 2 weeks ago was doing perfectly fine, and then overnight it just bleached.

I haven't been doing any thing in particular. Not even a water change this last week.

First picture Day Before, 2nd Next Day

I had the TimeLapse Camera running so the bleach was caught. Each Frame is about 3 minutes, so it happened within a few hours.

I've never seen a Acro Bleach quickly in real time, so here it is on YouTube.

https://youtu.be/OAWZB41_F1c

I wonder what could have caused this. Chemistry is fine. No Alk spike. (I have been vinegar dosing, but into overflow to mix in sump). All other corals look fine.

 

[Wally.B]

On a positive note. I got a algae "lawnmover" blenny fish for my other tank. Wow!!


So I picked up an algae blenny for my other tank. Just because some algae is creeping up due to increased lighting and my more frequent feeding of new zoas. Not hair algae just light patches of soft green turf like algae.

He got to work right away. You have to watch time lapse movies to see a cuc with snails make a difference. But seeing the blenny chomp on patches of algae really made my heart soar with joy.

I might get a small one for this tank, but worry he might not have enough algae with all the things in place to stop algae growth.

 

[moatdaddy]

Like that ATS. When mine was running effectively it left nothing for CUC. I had to feed my snails nori.

On the bleach sorry to hear, I hate when it happens because we always need a reason, at least I do. With SPS and at our current level of the hobby we don't always get one. If you dig into and find nothing just report what you looked at and move on. Documentation helps build justification on future actions and past reviewing.

Keep up the good work sir.

 

[Scorpius]

I've found that a frag of sps will either do well or it won't. I have one acro that was loosing tissue, but it's currently stopped. I give it 50/50 chance of surviving.

 

[Wally.B]

TANK CHEMISTRY IS DOING Perfect for a FEW WEEKS (I Trust PO4 readings, Finally!!)

So things are appearing very stable. First time in a long Long Time.

ALK 8.6
CALC 460
MAG 1300
NO3 2.5
PO4 0.04

I like the P04 readings (detectable but low). And this reading is actually accurate since GHA isn't growing in any Rampage mode.

Also this is with P04 Reactor running continuously for a few weeks. So there is PO4 possibly in rocks that is leaching out slowly.

Also I credit the good readings to the Drop 0.6 Algae Scrubber, which is also doing wonders for my Green Hair Algae stability. Results for ATS are measurable since I am harvesting a nice clump of Algae weekly. Might consider building a DIY larger WaterFall version (Ordered LED's from China, and got a 3D printer screen from Santa Monica).

No sure what effect changing to ESV Calc/Alk daily dosing has had, but I feel better than my home made Randy's receipe (since I could never get it truly mixed clear, and hoping ESV more balanced trace elements).

I am dosing Vinegar according to Randy's ramp up table (Currently at 11 ml per day, which is a bit behind schedule, but slower is fine.)

I am keeping to my coral feeding/dosing promise. "No coral foods, or Heavy Aminos". Just 3 drops of ZeoBak Bacteria and 2 drops of Zeovit Coral Vitalizer daily.

Since I lost that one Acro, I am cautious, so I picked up a couple of $10 Acro frags to see if these cheap ones do ok. If they do ok for a month or so, I may get more daring with a higher end Acro.

I am nearly out of Tropic Marine Pro salt, so decided to try a bucket of AquarForest ProBiotic Salt, to satisfy my Tinkering habit. Suppose to be good quality Salt and a bit cheaper than PRO. Should start using it in about a month or so.

 

[reefwiser]

Two weeks to me is the make or break time for SPS in a tank. It did not like the tank water or lighting.

 

[reefmutt]

That is a classic rtn episode, Wally..
You could blame it on the vinegar, or the gfo reactor or a combination of both, or you could blame it on noting and just move forward, like you are...
Sometimes corals just die..
If everything else is looking good and growing, it's tough to find a cause..
Keep an eye on nutrients, though.. With the algea scrubber, gfo and vinegar, proceed with caution... As I know you will!

And by the way, I'm very happy to see you winning the algea war!

 

[moatdaddy]

when that 3d screen gets in be sure to share details with us, please and thank you.

 

[Wally.B]

1 Month After Cleanup (Photo Compare)

So a quick comparison of Tank just after cleanup and now. (roughly a month)

I can Really notice Coralline doing well on rocks, and Alage not so well

Corals are all fine. Getting coloring intensity. Bit on the brown pinky side but I see slow Color improvements (which is good for a few weeks). Hey, any color is better than Bleached White

That Bird of Paradise

, keeps growing like a rocket as always.

Since Alage is under control, I just turned up MH light Photo Period a bit +15 min Left, +15 min Right.

TOTAL PhotoPeriod JUST SET NOW will be at 6 Hours.

(But This is not 100% overlap R+L) (ie [R=4.5 Hrs] [R+L = 3.0 Hrs ] [L=4.5 Hrs ] ).
( Thus both R & L are on alone for 1.5 Hrs, for my SunRise and SunSet Lighting Scenario )

This is still quite low (Lighting wise), expecially since Ballasts are set to 175W for the 250W bulbs.
But I rather move up Photo Period slowly to 8 hours, rather than increase intensity at this point.

Not sure if I really need the full 250W. Extends bulb life too.​

 

[Wally.B]

Keep an eye on nutrients, though.. With the algea scrubber, gfo and vinegar, proceed with caution... As I know you will!

Yes I am taking things as slow as I can possibly limit myself.

-> For Vinegar I am just Syringe Dosing once a day (and have the dosing pump to make this spread out over several small doses). Coming soon.

-> Algae Scrubber is going to stay (I think it's my best Nutrient Export improvement)
---> Hard to see what the Bio Filter Wall is doing (invisible, other than NO2 is fine under heavier than normal Fish Feeding).

-> I am temped to turn off GFO once PO4 get's down to 0.01-0.02ppm, but am quite terrified at this point since don't want any GHA coming back (strong).
---> GHA is still spotty at the un-scrubbed places.
--->Hoping Overall Lower Stagnant Nutrients and CUC keep Algae under control. Not Zero, since CUC need to eat (or they will die and kick in a decay cycle).

-> And as far as Nutrients, I'm actually feeding fish LIKE NEVER Before (I have no fear of feeding anymore). Still need to get another fish or two.
---> (I think ATS is the nutrient exporter I need for this tank).
---> Also my skimmer is set highest tune ever, and it's not skimming as much. Skimming consistently (bit wet). I figure ATS is sharing the workload.

I do feel strongly that I am on the right track, and I "should not/cannot" stray into any dangerous tinkering (like in the past).

 

[Wally.B]

** IMPORTANT ** Ground Probe in Sump/Tanks can SAVE YOUR LIFE (GFI is not enough)

I thought I'd pass this important tip on.

Yesterday I could have been electrocuted, but was lucky.

What happened is this. I was about to service my skimmer in my sump, and as my finger tip touch the water I got a strong Electrical shock.

My tanks and sump equipment is all GFI, so thought things were protected.

I then remembered I borrowed my Titanium Ground prove for my Experimetal tank. As soon as I placed it in my sump the GFI's kicked in.

I then unplugged all equipment and one by one plugged back in.
It was the brand new Reactor Pump I got a few weeks ago.

When I removed it, I noticed what it was.

My Sump Urchin who's been there for a year, decided to snack on my power cord. I've heard before that they can do this.

So when he bit through the insolation and EXPOSED 1 copper wire, my tank was Live with Electricity.

Had he bitten both leads, the circuit breaker would have popped.

But because the Sump wasn't grounded, the GFI didn't kick in. (My Ground plug wasn't there to ground it, so GFI didn't pick up the voltage).

So I removed the urchin and after this experience, I just got a few more ground probes to ground all my tanks, all my sumps to be extra safe.


** GET A GROUND PROBE FOR YOUR SAFETY **

In my case the Urchin could have bitten through during a major maintenance with my arms in the tank, and me not possibly balanced.

 

[Wally.B]

NEW Practice Frags (From First Frag Show) MAST Meeting

So I went to a Aquarium Club meeting event, and couldn't resist getting some SPS frags. Wanted only 2, but the buy 4 get one free got me .

All 5 for $100 cash isn't too bad. (Love the nice sized Red Dragon, which I lost recently. And that one on far right looks promising)

All kind of new to me, so for now at back of tank on a frag tray, 1/2 way down.

Exciting to have something new to look at.

 

[Wally.B]

The names of the Frags: (For my Records, I will quickly forget )

From Left to right: ( [Red Dragon] , [Branching Cyphastrea] , [Bi-Colored Stylo] , [Red Digi-Pink Tip] , [ORA Ponape] )

 

[Wally.B]

Algae Blenny (Lawnmover) Fish (Opposite of Algae Problem) in my other Tank.

So with all my paranoia about Algae, I got an Alage Blenny Fish for my other tank.

There was algae starting due to extra feeding of Zoa's, Acan.

That medium Blenny has only been around for a week or so and has really polished the Algae clean.

So much that I'm worried that he'll run of food.

Now I can feed more, and might have to start special feeding him.

 

[moatdaddy]

did you ever get that 3d printed screen for your ats? how is that ats doing?

 

[Wally.B]

did you ever get that 3d printed screen for your ats? how is that ats doing?

Yes, it arrive a couple of days ago.

It's not for the current ATS (drop box 0.6) that I have. That has enough catch material (Epoxied Rough WHITE Gravel material). Plan is to improve this ATS by adding 1 or more LED's (since Algae kind of pack grows around the single LED), but not across the whole possible surface of the ATS (as light is blocked by first growth). But even as it is, the DropBox 0.6 is doing VERY GOOD with a nice weekly harvest (that would possibly be growing on my rocks)

The 3D screen is a 7x7" for the ATS I plan to DIY build. I ordered Red/BLUE led's from China and still waiting for those. The box I'll build out of scrap Acrylic I already have, and I plan to run it off my Return (from tank), or Return Pump (T-off to Tank).

So I don't have any honest, truly tested opinion of the 3D printed screen. I never made one myself, so this is the first screen I've ever touched.

I will say this. I got the single sided one (other side is smooth). The two side one is two singles glued back to back, but got one just to see if worth getting a 2nd one.

First impression is the rough side isn't what I expected. I'm no expert, and as I said I haven't tested. But it's not as rough or prickly as I expected. Kind of bumpy where the 3D (X and Y grid lines overlap).

Maybe it will be effective, but without testing I can't say. (If I run it across my cotton shirt it does catch (a bit) so maybe it will catch algae and also be easy to clean). But there are loops within each X and Y run, so those holes might be tough to clean, but maybe not needed to be clean (since good to leave some starter algae behind). Might be the reason this is a good screen.

The custom printed screen does have 3 enforced holes at top (like re-enforcements for 3 ring paper for binders). Made for rings to hang on water flow bar.

The screen does appear durable, flexible.

That's all I can honestly say at this point.

 

[Wally.B]

New Salt Trial (Aquaforest Probiotic)

So I ran out of my most trusted Salt. Tropic Marine Pro.

For one bucket I'm trying Aquaforest Probiotic.

Was impressed with the little leaflet on batch quality testing (I tested and it was accurate).

Nice graduated measuring cup also included, that got my water mixed almost perfect on first try.

But what's weird about their recommendation for their system is that Alk be kept between 6.5-7.5 dkH. Max 8.0 dKH. "Or else degradation to Corals....Is what it says"

How are you suppose to achieve that when their Salt mixed 8.0. That sounds challenging to get Alk to Drop after every water change. To me that's a dosing challenge I don't know how to address.

Can anyone explain how you get Alk below 8, when salt mixes 8.0. I see guys running their tanks at 7.5, but how is that done? High Coral Load on Alk, so it drops within a day? Doesn't sound like Alk stability to me.

 

[Pife]

Can anyone explain how you get Alk below 8, when salt mixes 8.0. I see guys running their tanks at 7.5, but how is that done? High Coral Load on Alk, so it drops within a day? Doesn't sound like Alk stability to me.

You can lower it in your water change water with muriatic acid. Plenty of threads on here on how to do it.