How does one eliminate microbubbles?

Sorry if you already tried/though of/did this:
Can you add any anti siphon holes on your loc lines or raise one so its closer to the water surface to beak your siphon quicker when your pump is off? This helped me run a higher water level in my sump.
 
Ahhhhh. That last pic was worth a thousand words. I've always placed baffles so the water must travel under-->over-->under them to move from chamber to chamber. Yours travels over-->under-->over, and crashes down into the return chamber.

If you can take your sump offline a bit, you could just add one more baffle on the return side so the water travels under it to get to the last chamber.
 
Johnsy85 said:
I am guessing that some of those small bubbles get sucked into your pump, smashed into smaller bubbles and then pumped into your tank.


If the root cause is bubbles from the weir being pulverized by the pump, perhaps a long piece of open cell foam as a landing for the waterfalliing over the glass would work. I'm thinking the same type of foam used on a skimmer exit pipe- like the one laying between your sump and the middle door.
You may want to keep an eye on something else too, Mike. It's inevitable that at some point in the not too distant future, the clear flex you used will collapse at the bends.
Click to expand...
 
To expand on a previous comment, get a 1 1/4 nozzle for the lock line and angle at about 60 degrees with the top 1/4" over the water line you want in the display with the pump off. When you start you will get some bubbles, but shortly the return will be under water. When the pump turns off it will suck air and keep the level in the display higher . That's how I manage the water level in my 40 gallon breeder sump with a 120 and 50 gallon stock.
 
Conesus_Kid said:
Ahhhhh. That last pic was worth a thousand words. I've always placed baffles so the water must travel under-->over-->under them to move from chamber to chamber. Yours travels over-->under-->over, and crashes down into the return chamber.

If you can take your sump offline a bit, you could just add one more baffle on the return side so the water travels under it to get to the last chamber.
Click to expand...

I experienced this in one of my sump configurations as well. Adding a baffle to force water under helped. Giving a few inches of distance before the new baffle might also help. As could switching a glass "over" a baffle with an acrylic one that has teeth.
 
Im going to agree with the above about the baffle configuration, I though the point of the baffles was to act as a bubble trap. I had thought of this earlier and not mentioned it, sorry for assuming it was the other way.
 
Lot's a great advice. I have an extra baffle that I removed from the right hand side of the sump, this would certainly come in handy now. FWIW- I bought this sump with baffles already in.

I'm going to fix it right now :)
 
If you use silicone make sure to use aquarium safe stuff. There are mold inhibitors in some silicone which will wipe out the tank.
 
Ok, The fourth baffle is in place with the water (from right to left) going over, under, over, under....return. I put a ring of silicone around the pump housing aswell and........

I STILL HAVE MICROBUBBLES!!!

Is it possible that I just need to let it all run for a while and let the slime in the pipes build up a bit?
 
Put your hand over one of the outlets so the pressure is increased in the other two. This will force any air out of the pipes. If you get bubbles after that, you've still got microbubbles. :(
 
Mike-

Have you ever disassembled your return pump and checked the impeller?

I have had a microbubble problem, only to find several small collinista snails jammed in the impeller. I wouldn't have know they were there if I didn't take the pump apart. The snails were the culprit.
 
Conesus_Kid said:
Mike-

Have you ever disassembled your return pump and checked the impeller?

I have had a microbubble problem, only to find several small collinista snails jammed in the impeller. I wouldn't have know they were there if I didn't take the pump apart. The snails were the culprit.
Click to expand...

also check the impeller for any damage like pitting....if thats the case it is cavitation......if there are no visible signs on the impeller it's not cavitation.
 
I have taken the pump apart a couple of times. No snails, no pits, no GI Joes. Nothing in there.

Does anyone think that I need to just leave it be for a couple weeks and let the slimy stuff build up in the plumbing? Maybe it just needs to work itself in a bit.
 
How bad of a problem is it? Does it make the water look cloudy, or is just a bubble here and there? If it's the latter, I'd live with it.

I'm running out of ideas...
 
I'll attempt a video.... we'll see what happens.

Edit: Looks like the upload to Photobucket is going to take a while. But I'll get on here.
 
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i also agree that you may be sucking air into your return line between your sump and you pump . turn the return pump off and wait for a few minutes then use toilet tissue and dab it on the underside of the line running from your sump to your return pump and see if you pick up any signs of water . if you do then you have found your leak and need to fix it accordingly . i have seen this a few times and its hard to find so be patient and give it a few minutes to seep . if you find no leak there then try to turn your return pump ballvalve down thus slowing down the return pump volume .this will allow micro bubbles to raise if its moving slower . do you see any microbubbles in the sump near the intake area of the return pump ?
 
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