how important is 420nm?

Zacktosterone

Active member
I have an sps dominated tank. Some corals look amazing but some are drab. my water quality is good. and my params are stable

i'm running

PH 7.9 - 8.05
alk 9.4-10 dkh
Calcium 420-450 ppm
Magnesium 1450 ppm

nitrate undetectable
Phosphate .003

My lighting is a CEBU SUN running over a 65"x30"x24" reef
3x250watt 20k radiums run by m80 ballasts
4x80watt 460nm blue hamilton t5s

I'm thinking i'm really lacking 420nm and it may help slightly

opinions?
 
Radiums alone are quite capable of giving you spectacular color and aren't really lacking on a spectral or intensity basis unless you're using really low quality reflectors or lower wattage ballasts. If you colors are drab I would look elsewhere for the cause.

Nutrients being a little too low would be the first thing I would investigate, and upping feedings and fish load a bit might be all you need to get that last bit of color.

Lastly, if your photo period is much longer than 9 hours I'd consider dialing that back as well.

Good luck!
 
For the corals, more wont be necessary as your Radiums have that covered in their spectrum. If you want more to add more pop for your viewing pleasure, you could try changing your blue t5's to actinic. I ran actinic vho with my Radiums for years.
 
420 is the peak absorption of chlorophyll a. Going to actinics would not make your tank more blue. Because the actinic range is harder for your eyes to see, it doesn't appear as bright. The tank will more than likely appear more white than it does now.
 
420 is the peak absorption of chlorophyll a. Going to actinics would not make your tank more blue. Because the actinic range is harder for your eyes to see, it doesn't appear as bright. The tank will more than likely appear more white than it does now.

I don't think it would make it bluer. But it sounds important
 
I have an sps dominated tank. Some corals look amazing but some are drab. my water quality is good. and my params are stable

i'm running

PH 7.9 - 8.05
alk 9.4-10 dkh
Calcium 420-450 ppm
Magnesium 1450 ppm

nitrate undetectable
Phosphate .003

My lighting is a CEBU SUN running over a 65"x30"x24" reef
3x250watt 20k radiums run by m80 ballasts
4x80watt 460nm blue hamilton t5s

I'm thinking i'm really lacking 420nm and it may help slightly

opinions?

I dont think you are going to help the situation by adding Actinic tubes. Whilst those tubes may enhance the pop effect from green fluorescent pigments; untimately, it is your water chemistry/nutrition level that is at issue IMO.

The Radiim 250w has decent (not a great deal...but decent level of output in the 420nm area): http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/8/review

I'd look at the areas Peter has outlined. A combined effort in increasing water changes+feeding more+reducing amount of GFO usage is likely to yield better results.

1. Which salt are you using?
2. How much weekly W/C are you doing?
3. Are you dosing two part? Or Ca Reactor?
4. If two part, which brand?
5. If two part, are you dosing any trace elements alongside?
6. How much GAC and GFO are you running?
7. Are you feeding the fish at least a couple of times a day with a variety?
8. What other additives, if any, are you currently dosing?

The reason I ask all the above, is because you have had sort of similar threads in the past, and with different lighting systems in place.
 
I dont think you are going to help the situation by adding Actinic tubes. Whilst those tubes may enhance the pop effect from green fluorescent pigments; untimately, it is your water chemistry/nutrition level that is at issue IMO.

The Radiim 250w has decent (not a great deal...but decent level of output in the 420nm area): http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2004/8/review

I'd look at the areas Peter has outlined. A combined effort in increasing water changes+feeding more+reducing amount of GFO usage is likely to yield better results.

1. Which salt are you using?
2. How much weekly W/C are you doing?
3. Are you dosing two part? Or Ca Reactor?
4. If two part, which brand?
5. If two part, are you dosing any trace elements alongside?
6. How much GAC and GFO are you running?
7. Are you feeding the fish at least a couple of times a day with a variety?
8. What other additives, if any, are you currently dosing?

The reason I ask all the above, is because you have had sort of similar threads in the past, and with different lighting systems in place.

1. Which salt are you using?
Reef cryatals
2. How much weekly W/C are you doing?
20% bi-weekly
3. Are you dosing two part? Or Ca Reactor?
Yes, no CA reactor
4. If two part, which brand?
BRS
5. If two part, are you dosing any trace elements alongside?
No
6. How much GAC and GFO are you running?
1 cup of each
7. Are you feeding the fish at least a couple of times a day with a variety?
Brine at night, pellet in the morning
8. What other additives, if any, are you currently dosing?
Right now kalk
 
When you say they look drab, what do you mean?

Do you mean that they're not well colored under the lights (function of the lights)?

Or do you mean that they're not coloring up (changing to a prettier color) that would be present even under a flashlight?

I guess it's like this: you can shine a pink light on a white flower and that makes it look pink (but it's really still white) - or - you can shine a white light on a pink flower (that's intrinsically pink).
 
When you say they look drab, what do you mean?

Do you mean that they're not well colored under the lights (function of the lights)?

Or do you mean that they're not coloring up (changing to a prettier color) that would be present even under a flashlight?

I guess it's like this: you can shine a pink light on a white flower and that makes it look pink (but it's really still white) - or - you can shine a white light on a pink flower (that's intrinsically pink).

White light vs natural color. My greens and purples are good. My pinks are brown or light brown. And I have 1 green coral coral that is brown. Really my pink mili is giving me the most trouble. Can't seem to color it up
 
I use a low dose of 415nm LED for a long photoperiod (16hrs) and that usually gets them to color up.

I also have MHs but I only use them in short photoperiod bursts (4hrs) to get growth.
 
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