***How-To*** Automatic Water Change

what if as you was doing water change, the fresh water sensor was triggered and it dumped fresh water. how is this prevented using sensors. secondly could awc still be configured using profilux if a float valve is used in sump for autotop up via gravity from a fw resoirvoir. deciding weather to stay with float valve and 2 pumps or 3 pumps ( 1 for fw) and sensors. would rather float valve incase sensor failure on fw topup wich would result in flood
 
there is a a time out for redundancy built in, this is impossible to happen.

Yes this could be configured but you would need a solenoid valve to open and close the flow.
 
will the solenoid valve be used to control flow from sw resovoir?? if i have 2 bukets 1 fw 1 sw how would i set up ato using pump in bucket and solenoid. and swc using pump in buket and solenoid. and 1 pump(drain pump in tank)



firstly will i use 3 solenoids to stop flow for all 3 pumps. or will it jus be fw an sw.

or will level sensors in aquarium control sw and drain pump. if so how will i need to shut sump return pump off while this happens. how will i work out where the sensors go to drain out x amount of water. will the sump effect water change.

welcome to confused.com
 
You do not need any solenoid if your pumping your DI or Saltwater.
You can program Profilux to turn which type of water to pump by using your power bar.

If you were to connect to the DI filtering system to your tank and yes you would need a solenoid not a pump.
To be on the safe side, I always used 2 optical sensor to make sure i never put too much water in the tank.
First optical sensor is to program when water level is too low, and needs to turn on a pump or a solenoid depending on your setup. You need to set this up as a time based on.

When the pump or solenoid turns on, you program it to be on for a certain amount of time.
Profilux is very smart, you can also program, how long does sensor should alarm if the low sensor does not touch the water again.
This helps if you ran out of water in your bucket, or DI system is not working.

Second optical sensor is to program when water level is too high, you should program this to sound alarm and shut off all pumps or solenoid feeding water to your tank.

To program the Saltwater, you will need a Salinity probe.
To be honest, you shouldn't lose enough Salinity to matter, if you keep up with your water changes.
You could also automate the water change, and Profilux can do this, but it would take some thought on doing it, need bigger holding tanks and drains to remove and add that much water.


Get 2 buckets and a pump, play outside your tank, and test all your settings much easier this way.
 
has anyone got a method of doing water change using salt water resovoir in a room 12 feet away. will litre meter 3 be better. can it be used on profilux. or independant pumps using profilux. whats the best way of using profilux to do water change controlling drain pump and satwater in pump. and is it only optical sensors i need. can the low level sensor go under water??
 
has anyone got a method of doing water change using salt water resovoir in a room 12 feet away. will litre meter 3 be better. can it be used on profilux. or independant pumps using profilux. whats the best way of using profilux to do water change controlling drain pump and satwater in pump. and is it only optical sensors i need. can the low level sensor go under water??


i have now re evaluated my plans. my 2 water containers are in the room nextdoor to aquarium 1 r.o 1 saltwater. i am going to use a solenoid valve on the r.o di unit to fill up 1st container. i plan on controlling this solenoid using profilux on the power bar to filll container 1nce every week or two. is there a problem with this if the profilux box is next to the aquarium.

secondly i want to use optical sensors to controll ato and water change. no float switches. is this possible. what pumps would i need and how would i connect it all up and programme so ato is off during water change. i also want to monitor and control ph and ai lighting and wave pumps such as vortechs or tunze if possible. which profilux pack suits me?
 
go for the mega pack right now and save yourself $500 with the 40% off and then get the accessories with the 10% off you qualify for all order additions ;)
 
can u post a link for the mega pack. what does it contain. is that the profilux 3 ex? and what you mean get the accesories with 10percent off. u mean sensors and so on. what would i need for the setup i described. also is it the english module
 
you really need to talk to your UK rep. The deal I post here is for the USA market, I gave the email address in another thread of yours. ;)
 
ok im ordering today. would i need 2 optical sensors for ato and water change and where will they be mounted. and will 1 be under the water. what pumps are best to use for draining and refilling. lastly during water change will the return pump to aquarium be affected
 
I am not sure what pumps are on the market in the UK as we are in Canada.

return pump only affected depending on how much water you wan to take out.

I think you will require more detailed UK support from here on as many questions we can not answer due to different product types, such as pump types which would be 220V instead of 110V . I suggest www.ultimatereef.com
 
im buying laptop to usd to control profilux. any 1 have any gud reccomendations . dont want to buy 1 and have problems connecting it. also is it complicated to install profilux 3
 
just buy any windows, no mac...installing p3 is not easy, but you do have great support. just read the set up guide "sticky" at the top of the forum...will give you tons of great info...and ask away
 
You do not need any solenoid if your pumping your DI or Saltwater.
You can program Profilux to turn which type of water to pump by using your power bar.

If you were to connect to the DI filtering system to your tank and yes you would need a solenoid not a pump.
To be on the safe side, I always used 2 optical sensor to make sure i never put too much water in the tank.
First optical sensor is to program when water level is too low, and needs to turn on a pump or a solenoid depending on your setup. You need to set this up as a time based on.

When the pump or solenoid turns on, you program it to be on for a certain amount of time.
Profilux is very smart, you can also program, how long does sensor should alarm if the low sensor does not touch the water again.
This helps if you ran out of water in your bucket, or DI system is not working.

Second optical sensor is to program when water level is too high, you should program this to sound alarm and shut off all pumps or solenoid feeding water to your tank.

To program the Saltwater, you will need a Salinity probe.
To be honest, you shouldn't lose enough Salinity to matter, if you keep up with your water changes.
You could also automate the water change, and Profilux can do this, but it would take some thought on doing it, need bigger holding tanks and drains to remove and add that much water.


Get 2 buckets and a pump, play outside your tank, and test all your settings much easier this way.

cheers mate
 
At the top of the GHL dedicated forum, you will see the SECOND thread...its named: Sticky: ProfiLux - THE Review and set up guide
If you look in there you will find all the "easy" info to set up the P3 at the beginning.
Any further questions....ask away...I am sure SOMEONE here will help you out.
 
Installing application is easy, connecting with USB is easy. Wireless is a bugger if you don't know tricks. Short version is turn off security on wireless, connect controller then after you are sure connection is good, enter security settings via http to controler wireless card first. I am assuming the PF3 has same WAN card as 2. Also look into what you need to recover config or reflash in event of problem. The PF2 has old style RS232 port (DB9 serial) I got a USB to DB9 device at Fry's. This controller is like any other computer in that you need to have plan to recover OS and data. That being said I've had PF for years and only had one failure and that was due to laptop battery crapping out. (Never flash PF firmware without a protected power source, laptop or PC with UPS.
 
Perhaps a stupid question, sorry...

How does the event timer trigger an AWC? I don't see a specific option that defines the triggered function?

And if you do not do an event timer, how is the AWC triggered? Is there a default time of day and frequency for this function?

DUH ... Saw the option now. It's in the level sensor page where you configure the level sensors ... Sorry got it now...
 
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When you are defining the "Maximal on-time" i understand the timing for the pumps that pertain to draining and refilling salt water. But in regards to the ATO, can this still be a minimal setting?

For example, I have 3 x 600mL/min peristaltic pumps. If I use these for ATO and AWC per this tutorial, I would need just over 18min to drain 3 gallons of water. So I set the max on time to 20 minutes for level 2.

For level 1, can I still use a max on time of 1 minute, which is what it was before I tried to enable AWC with this (most excellent!) tutorial. If I have to set it for 20 minutes as well, then the max on time is way more than I need for just ATO functions. I was just worried a bit about the added risk of potentially having ATO run for over 20x longer than it needs to typically if the ATO level 1 sensor fails.
 
Dipan,
You are right in that you have to set the max on time to match how long it takes to fill your tank to the normal level.
My system only takes 1:50 to fill with replacement water. I have now made sure that it can not fill my system with RO on top up, by ensuring that hose has a jet orifice and can only deliver a small amount of water to make sure I do not get my system full of RO water.

In your case, it is also an issue about how long your system is with out pumps for a total of 40 minutes.
I just bought some cheap 10mm output pumps which just run for the water dump and fill. They are only on for a very short while and don't really need to be ultra reliable.
 
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