How to convert sump to a pvc setup

Check valves really have no place on your return system. They are prone to failure in saltwater systems and shouldn't be relied on to prevent a flood. Now if you already have on and are just using it to convert to vinyl then it would work. They also restrict flow so they need to be upsized from what your tubing size is.
 
Instead of a pvc to tubing could I just do a check valve connected to the pump then have a barb fitting from there?

As stated check valves are really not the best idea not to mention that one is unlikely to have the male end to fit to the pump without a stub of pipe between it.

Anti siphon holes are better than check valves...A couple on your return line just below the water line work great..
 
As I stated, I used hard PVC many times. But I repeat, Why?

I learned not to use standard PVC from professionals who warned me off it. And I've seen hard connections leak from vibration. I stand by my statement that standard PVC is NOT made for continuous flow.

I admit I do not know why "vinyl is also more of a restriction vs hard pipe." Not saying it's not true, I just never heard this.

There's a huge difference between setting up personal tanks at your home and plumbing customer's aquaria at a business.

One of the biggest downsides to hard PVC is how much flow you lose with bends, elbows, connectors etc.

There is no reason NOT to use high grade PVC. The damage from 125 gallons of salt water is a lot more expensive than the best quality PVC.
 
I learned not to use standard PVC from professionals who warned me off it. And I've seen hard connections leak from vibration. I stand by my statement that standard PVC is NOT made for continuous flow.

What is standard PVC to you? That might be why they warned you off of it.... Do they consider Schedule 40 to be standard, like most people in this thread do?

Or were they thinking the older and now discontinued schedule 20?

Any well glued and properly made PVC fitting won't vibrate out. It literally can not vibrate out. Its bonded, it functionally is one piece.

And if it isn't, then they didn't do it glue it properly, and that is the cause of their issue.
 
I use both PVC (sched 40) and vinyl with stainless hose clamps on the barbs. The old vinyl lines are 21 years with no problems. The PVC manifold's barbs, tees, gate valves and couplings get bulky. I have had to replace all the PVC as it clogs up over the years with calcium and feather worm tubes, so go up one pipe size if you can to avoid flow issues. The vinyl is easy to clean - just squeeze it and the stuff breaks off and heads downstream. I think the lack of elbows on the vinyl is a plus for flow compared to PVC, but the barbs are constrictors. Vinyl is easier to construct and you don't need unions so its probably cheaper too.
 
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