How to dim a Meanwell ELN-60-48D...

[hllywd]

If you compare data sheets it looks like the D will dim further before going out, maybe close to full off, but I can'tverify that yet. The P version has a dimming cut off that looks like it would still be pretty bright.

From previous accounts, it looks like DWZM's shield I'm putting together will dim either, essentially the D can use the same digital dimming signal as the P. Between it and the Apex, I'd say toss up functionally unless you want all the custom stuff SWINGERRR refered to such as clouds, and storms. I'm not sure the Apex has those capabilities... yet, but I'd be surprised if that functionality isn't added in a firmware update at some point.

By all accounts the Apex will run Ds fine, it outputs an analog 0-10V signal which the D requires.

As for cost, my entire Arduino controller will be around $75, you're not going to toch an Apex for anything close to that. That's why I'll stick with my ACIII a while longer and control my light dimming via Arduino separately. I will probably still supply power to my entire lighting setup through the DC8 for some integration since the load won't add much to the DC8 power budget.

HTH, Tim

 

[bpiermat]

Wow, thanks for all the insight this really helped and confirmed my thoughts!!

 

[jtedesco]

I have been following this thread closely, but I have seen any updates lately. I am currently building an LED array and have decided to power it with the ELN D's. I would love to get more info on the Arduino ELN shield. Does anyone have it working to dim the D's? and if so, how do I get my hands on one?

If I understand the transistor switch method correctly, I will not dim, it will just turn the array on and off via the Arduino. Am I correct?

Or...if anyone has come up with another way to dim the D's, I would love to hear about it.

Thanks
-Joe

 

[Tang Salad]

Does anyone have it working to dim the D's? and if so, how do I get my hands on one?

I have the same questions.

Or...if anyone has come up with another way to dim the D's, I would love to hear about it.

Not sure if this is what you mean, but the method I used is explained by Stu here.It's for manual dimming, not automated. It works well, but I'm disappointed in the lack of smoothness to the range and also that it jumps from 0% to (what looks to me like) 30% brightness. This may be a function of the driver itself though, and not the dimming circuit. My DMM shows a smooth 0-10V off the POT leads.

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

I have the same questions.

The shield is released under an open source license - you are free to build it yourself. I put the Eagle project files for it up on a google code website, and I'm pretty sure the link is somewhere in this thread. I have no more of the prototype run left.

Another option is the "Typhon" controller I am designing. It's basically an Arduino clone, RTC, 10v level circuit, buttons, and LCD header all on the same board, so you can build one device rather than strapping a bunch of stuff on to an Arduino.

I'm disappointed in the lack of smoothness to the range and also that it jumps from 0% to (what looks to me like) 30% brightness. This may be a function of the driver itself though, and not the dimming circuit. My DMM shows a smooth 0-10V off the POT leads.

It's likely a function of the driver itself - look at the datasheet for the driver, there is a huge shoulder way down low in the response - below a certain point, the driver ignores the dimming signal.

 

[ecomdesign]

evilc66,

"While an LM317 isn't the best choice, it's a readily available one for anyone that walks down to the local Radioshack."

Agreed, and I have a LED light running on my QT with two CREE XR-E using just a LM317 as a driver.

However - you need to install at least two Caps and a variable resistor in the circuit.
This is a little beyond most DIYers ability to solder discrete parts together without a PWB. ( although DWZM could easily do a VERY nice LM317 driver PCB for us ).

Anyway, if the variability of wall warts bothers you, lets say:

Get TWO 5k Pots.
Hook high side of POT 1 to Wallwart ( unknown voltage < 24V )
Hook Wiper of POT 1 to High side of POT 2 ( insulate low side of Pot 1 )

Hook Low side of POT 2 to wall wart ground

Turn on wall wart & measure voltage across POT 2
Adjust POT 1 until max Voltage across POT 2 = 10.0 VDC

Hook wiper of POT 2 to Meanwell Dim+
Hook wall wart Ground(RTN) to Dim-

NOW you can get 0-10V by adjusting POT 2 regardless of voltage of wall wart. ( DO NOT adjust POT 1 ever again )

Sorry if that sounds complicated but it's not.

Stu

Can I get some help with the "measure voltage across pot2" part. I've never used a multimeter before...Scary isn't it? lol

Would I:
-set the dial on the multimeter to 20 DCV, with the leads in COM and VmA.

-Then put the positive lead on the wiper of pot 1 and the negitive lead on wallwart ground?

Then turn pot 1 till the meter reads 10V?


I'm a newbie and am only guessing here...just want to be sure before I attempt this. I am getting all of my leds today and some of my drivers.

 

[ecomdesign]

nevermind, I figured it out.

On another note though:
If I use 1 pot to dial back my signal to 10V like above, but then wire 2 pots off of it (1 for blues, 1 for whites) instead of one, would I still get 10V to each pot or would I only get 5V to each?

I'm guessing only 5V right?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

If you wire the two secondary pots in parallel, they'll both get 10v.

Though, you might want to read the posts around the one you quoted above. Using a pot as a resistor divider to control voltage isn't precise (the voltage depends somewhat on the load), especially when you build a "network" of multiple pots in series/parallel. IMHO you are better off using a 10v voltage regulator or a regulated power supply as your 10v source, then use pot(s in parallel) to control the signal to each ELN.

 

[jtedesco]

Pot question

Pot question

I have my array all wired up and everything is working, however, I have a question about my dimming pot(s). I have 4 10k ohm pots wired in parallel from a 10v power supply. The problem is, when I turn a pot all the way down (all 4 are behaving the same) there is still ~4 volts coming out of the wiper terminal, causing me not to be able to dim meanwells all the way down. Do I have the wrong size pots?

 

[jtedesco]

...The odd shaped heat-sink is a custom cut to fit my 54 gal corner tank

 

[ecomdesign]

If you wire the two secondary pots in parallel, they'll both get 10v.

Though, you might want to read the posts around the one you quoted above. Using a pot as a resistor divider to control voltage isn't precise (the voltage depends somewhat on the load), especially when you build a "network" of multiple pots in series/parallel. IMHO you are better off using a 10v voltage regulator or a regulated power supply as your 10v source, then use pot(s in parallel) to control the signal to each ELN.

ok then, to be safe I will spend the $20 and get a 10v regulator instead of using the pot. Thought I could save a few bucks!

thanks

 

[TheFishMan65]

jtedesco can you draw a diagram of how you have it wired?

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

ok then, to be safe I will spend the $20 and get a 10v regulator instead of using the pot. Thought I could save a few bucks!

thanks

It shouldn't have to cost $20 - if you can solder to perfboard, you can make one for about $2. Or, just use a (regulated!) 9v wall wart and "live" with the slightly reduced dimming range (you'll still be able to simulate a full-on condition by adjusting the current trimpot).

jtedesco can you draw a diagram of how you have it wired?

Plus, let us know the make/model of the pot? And exactly how you're testing it?

If wiring is OK, I'd probably take the pot out of circuit and measure resistance from each end leg to the wiper as you turn it from end to end, to verify that the pot is good.

 

[jtedesco]

I found the issue...I did not have the low side of the pot connected to neutral of the power supply. Once I did that now I am able to vary the entire range of the 10v power supply.

I am surprised at how bright the led's are at the minimum dimming voltage of about 1 volt.

Another thing I noticed is that when the pot is all the way down, (or the 10v supply is unplugged) there is a slight glow on all the led's. When I unplug the meanwells they obviously go out. Is that normal, or do I have a AA battery burried in the birds nest of wires? :fun4:

 

[der_wille_zur_macht]

That's normal according to others using that driver.

 

[joelatx]

I have been looking on these boards for 2 days and can't find how to purchase kits or just boards.

Only place I find it at is BOOSTLED.

Please point me in the right direction.

DWZM can you PM me?

 

[joelatx]

Where to get your cool stuff

Where to get your cool stuff

I have been looking on these boards for 2 days and can't find how to purchase kits or just boards.

Only place I find it at is BOOSTLED.

Please point me in the right direction.

DWZM can you PM me?

 

[TheFishMan65]

Joe,

What 'parts' are you trying to find? I like RapidLED for LED related item, but there is also Cutter, and ReefLEDLgihts.

If you are looking for components I like Future Electronics (I think they are cheaper), but there is also Digikey, and Mouser.

 

[WestChesterReef]

tag

 

[oreo57]

Resurrecting thread to see if there is any new info re: dimming of Meanwell D's by converting PWM to analog out..

Also I have just acquired a StevesLED board w/ 10 or 5v PWM "out" and I am trying to figure out the best way to dim using this and some Meanwell "d" drivers..
currently, though the controller will turn them on the PWM will not ramp them up nor down (except at end of cycle by capacitor discharge???)

I have tried some hit and miss R/C circuits but the output isn't ramped, just goes to "on" eventually.. showing 9.8V out w/ VOM..

this thread is very informative but unfortunately "messy" for beginners..
And though the circuits presented her are probably "elegant" it is not in a user friendly format for beginners..
Also any real world differences between "powered" conversion and simple R/C low pass filters would be appreciated..

anyone care to "condense" this a bit??? Thanks.