How to recharge DI resin

[tgunn]

:lol: So I went to Home depot to pick up the Muriatic Acid. I asked the guy in the paint department where the Muriatic Acid was and he says, "Huh? Mury-wha? You want acid?"

Gotta love skilled labour!

 

[dngspot]

The acid is at HD in the garden department. You can not depend on anyone at HD to find anything. When they are looking I do not think that their eyes move from the sky.

 

[lukinrats]

I am not very familiar with the cartridges/ media in these filters, as I have just recently purchased on for the first time... I have only hooked it up,and really have no idea what exactly is inside those acrylic tubes... My question is, Is this method for all DI parts of the filter, or do you have to have some sort of special (resin)?

I.e. I do not know if I have those beads, or if it is just some sort of filter

Thanks,

 

[dngspot]

We could probably answer your question better with a unit manufacture and model

 

[dngspot]

Bump

 

[Rainer Feyer]

Great thread you have here!!!!!

I do have separate containers for my Cations/ Anions. This said, I could forgo the lime treatmnet, correct? So, I could stay with doing the Muriatic Acid only, correct?

Thanks in advance,

 

[dngspot]

The lye is needed to recharge the anion. If you add the acid to both containers you will exhaust the anion and recharge the cation.

 

[Rainer Feyer]

Thank you kindly

 

[dngspot]

I had a timer fail on my auto top off and before I realized what was going on, my first batch of recharged resin was exhausted.
I had some resin I had purchased from someone here in town for an old canister. I mixed it in with the exhausted resin and recharged. During the process I noticed that I had more cation than anion. When the process was finished the mixed resin did not look the same color as my first recharge I separated them and mixed the anion and cation 50% to 50% and the color was right.
I also tried to run the two different resins in separate canisters and they just did not perform as well as when they are mixed. I ran the cation first then the anion first with no change, it was like I did not have a di at all. Any one got any ideas why this is.?

 

[dngspot]

I have found that the resin must be packed tightly. Over a period of time the resin shrinks and then separates in the canister. As mentioned earlier the resin would stop working.
After I took the resin out of the canisters and mixed them, the TDS runs at 0.
This is the same batch that was regenerated 9/07/07 and it still is working fine, as long as I keep it mixed.

I will keep posting my results.

 

[Shadowramy]

I think the problem with running two seperate containers is packing them in tightly and getting all the chemicals out, especially the lye.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

When you are using a MIXED BED resin (that is - the anion beads and cation beads mixed in the same cartridge), it is important to pack the resin tightly to keep the bed from fluidizing - which leads to separation of the anion and cation beads. The beads themselves don't shrink - its just the resin column settling once you get lubrication (water) between the beads.

In SEPARATE BED applications, packing the resin tightly isn't as much of an issue, other than more resin is always better than less resin.

And lastly - yes - you will see better performance from a mixed bed cartridge than you will a separate bed set up.

Russ

 

[Biffer]

Russ - When you say you will see better performance in a mixed bed resin, do you mean the mixed bed actually works better or just lasts longer than separate beds?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Mixed bed resin actually works better.

 

[Biffer]

Hey Buckeye FS - I tried sending you a PM but it said you're full - Do you have an email I can send you specific quesiton?

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Sure - it's in our signature line: Sales@BuckeyeFieldSupply.com

Russ

 

[RandyStacyE]

Hey dngspot,

You could probably make a 'separator' out of an empty 2-liter bottle to simplify the separation of the resin. That could work great in comparison to turkey basting it off of the bottom.

I've never tried recharging di and I've never handled the materials much at all, but it's just a thought I had.

Kinda like one of these:

 

[Biffer]

Doh:eek1: Now I feel stoopider

 

[dngspot]

I have finally had to recharge since 9/14/07. I did not see a change in color. I guess the die in the resin has been bleached out. None the less after the recharge the TDS is reading 0. My TDS meter was climbing this is how I could tell that the resin was exhausted.
It takes me about an hour to recharge 2-10 inch canisters.

 

[Buckeye Hydro]

Was it simple for you to do?