HOW TO SET UP A TANK, condensed verions (retitled)

How high should the sump level be?
I have 18g sump. I guess I should get the measurements, lol. Currently, the water level with the sump running is about 4-5inches from the top. The water runs over the highest baffle by half an inch or less. I don't get any bubbles or anything because I run a filter sock.
 
This is great information thank you sk8r for writing such a well informed thread. I'm sure I will be returning to this topic as I get started. :D
 
Its been about 10 years since my last s/w tank

Its been about 10 years since my last s/w tank

sk8tr you are a wealth of knowledge, i am starting a 30 gallon fish only tank, i have an emperor 400 filter im hoping to use it has dual filter chambers with 2 spray bar driven bio wheels, could i use one of the chambers as a refugium (not sure if spelled right) tank? could you help recommend the setup for this tank...or if im even going in the right direction with filter system. Thanks in advance...Scuba Tim
 
Scuba Tim said:
oh and what is ro/di is that distilled water?
Click to expand...

Tim:

RO/DI water is simply water that has undergone Reverse Osmosis, De-Ionizing filtration.

It is VERY DIFFERENT than, and not interchangeable with, distilled water.

You can purchase either fresh or salt RO/DI water from an LFS, but most people in this hobby eventually purchase their own RO/DI filtration system, as buying water is a pain in the butt and a RO/DI system will generally pay for itself fairly quickly (inside a year).

If you're interested, BRS has bunches of RO/DI systems at good prices:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...systems/reverses-osmosis-deionization-systems

Before you buy one, however, you should call your local water department and ask if your tap water is treated with chloramines - a disinfectant commonly added to municipal water supplies that can kill aquarium fish. Standard RO/DI systems do not effectively remove chloramines - and what little chloramines they do remove are done at the expense of VERY expensive DI resin. There are add-on filters that will remove chloramines, but you want to know whether or not you need one before you purchase your RO/DI system.

Anyway. Hope this helps.
 
Tyvm, Sk8r, for your patience and for sharing your knowledge. I plan on purchasing my 1st set up in a couple months and found this whole web site, specifically this thread, extremely helpful. Thank you.
 
Last edited:
DUPioneers said:
Tim:

RO/DI water is simply water that has undergone Reverse Osmosis, De-Ionizing filtration.

It is VERY DIFFERENT than, and not interchangeable with, distilled water.

You can purchase either fresh or salt RO/DI water from an LFS, but most people in this hobby eventually purchase their own RO/DI filtration system, as buying water is a pain in the butt and a RO/DI system will generally pay for itself fairly quickly (inside a year).

If you're interested, BRS has bunches of RO/DI systems at good prices:

http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/store...systems/reverses-osmosis-deionization-systems

Before you buy one, however, you should call your local water department and ask if your tap water is treated with chloramines - a disinfectant commonly added to municipal water supplies that can kill aquarium fish. Standard RO/DI systems do not effectively remove chloramines - and what little chloramines they do remove are done at the expense of VERY expensive DI resin. There are add-on filters that will remove chloramines, but you want to know whether or not you need one before you purchase your RO/DI system.

Anyway. Hope this helps.
Click to expand...

DUPioneers...Thanks for the response, i will look into ro/di system. Im really digging this site, what a find...Thanks again Tim
 
Sk8r............i have read this entire thread..........every post....and first of all i want to say thank you for the commen sense advice pouring out of it.

I have a long back ground with FW but none with SW :/ and this thread is where all most all the advice i have gotten that makes sense at all has come from.

Its FO or FOWLR (mayyyyybe) for me ;).....i gave up on tank decorations years ago w FW and realy have no interest in the inverts or corals.....although i would like a nem for my clowns someday.

LR.....the stuff the local LFS sales is pretty much long time dead boat rock.....and though i tried to get a piece today out of one of there tanks...
 
the stuff had only been in the water a few days (in there sump :/)..........and they told me they just replace it as they sale it...like every day or few days.......3 different stores same story......I wanted it to cycle some limestone i want to use at some point and figured i would just get a head start.....but with it being in there only a cpl days i didnt figure it would be much use for that....guess what i am saying is i wanted to get some of there bac and "good" algea to spread to the limestone..so do you think just sticking it in SW without any sort of starter culture will do it any good..........i assume of course anything i have in my FW tanks would just die in SW
 
sump question

sump question

Sk8tr thank you so much for this thread. You so patiently answer all our questions! I've gotten more out of this one thread than all of my previous research combined. I have a 20 gal long for my sump and want to glue in some flat pieces of pvc as baffles. Should the first baffle be off the bottom then the second baffle be on the bottom or vice versa? I am assuming the baffles are used to keep bubbles from going into the main tank. Thats why I want them anyway... I saw a scetch of one on here somewhere and now I cant locate it again. Thanks again for all your help.
 
The sequence is ENTRY then[bottom-connected baffle, top spill to...] MAIN SUMP AREA [bottom-connected baffle] HEATER chamber [top-connected baffle] PUMP CHAMBER ---The basic idea is having that very narrow low-high baffle arrangement right before the pump chamber helps minimize snails, algae strands and other problems getting out of the main area/fuge and into the pump where they can stop a pump. Your skimmer and ATO float usually go in the middle chamber. I put my skimmer above the middle chamber to give me room for a fuge.
 
Live Rock

Live Rock

Thank you! I have a live rock question. What is the best type to go with. I am setting up a 65gal tank with a 20gal sump. I am willing to spend up to $1,000.00 on the rock so please let me know what the best would be. Thank you thank you
 
thanks this post is great im glad this is the first thing i looked at. makes it ALOT easier.
so far i got a tank lol its 4x2x2 and now i need everything else.
 
Great post! I want to start up a 40g tank, but I know I will have to move it in 3-4 months. Can I get started cycling and then move it to a new house. I know moving the "cycled" water will be a pain, but... I just can't wait.

Any advice would be appreciated
 
Hello all. I had a freshwater tank as a child but I have decided to try my hand at a small marine tank. It is only 15 gallons, and I am familiarizing myself with the limitations and challenges a "nano" tank provides. My question is; I have a small "Ocean" brand sub-merged hydrometer. I have been cycling the salt through for a week and a half. At first the hydrometer was reading the recommended 1.024 level. Then I noticed that the needle was bobbing quite wildly. I assumed it was too close to the filter and being disturbed by water flow. I moved the hydrometer and now the needle is reading 1.028. Should salinity increase this drastically 6 days into the cycle? Is my hydrometer no good?
-Thanks.
 
Salinity increase comes from evaporation. Water turns to water vapor and evaporates. Minerals like salt don't. So the longer salt water stands, the saltier it gets. That's why we have 'auto topoff' with fresh ro/di (no minerals) water. An autotopoff for a nano is tricky to rig, often involving a plain drip line with a knot in it, carefully calibrated.
 
Back in the game

Back in the game

Hello all, my name is Ray...I am a college student and this is not my first tank but I would like this one to be my first successful tank. I first had the idea to get a saltwater tank as a high school student. Got a free 40 gallon from a friend and am eheim canister filter (not the greatest idea I know haha) anyways, after a lot of money and time it wasnt the most efficient way to go about creating a successful tank and instead of wasting the money on a lack of intelligence I would like to get some insight form the experts. Can someone please inform me of the best possible way to start a reef tank (something smaller than 30 gallons)...the specifics on different types of tanks the most financially efficient way to go about this.

Thanks,

Ray
 
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