HOW TO SET UP A TANK, condensed verions (retitled)

So Sk8r, I just want to make sure I am doing this right.

I do not have a large container to do my saltwater mix... but since I am just setting the tank up, I'm not sure it is a big issue. Hopefully you can help me figure the best way to do this.

It seems like the messiest way to do it, but I think I'm going to have to fill the tank with the saltwater mix first, then add the live rock and live sand... correct? Or should I add the live rock and sand first, and then add the mix bucket by bucket intially? I'm just afraid to any live rock to get dry, if this process is too slow. Thanks in advance for your insight!

-Rich
 
base rock down first: I use lighting grid underneath to prevent point load on the glass and to keep the rock from rolling. Then WASHED sand. THen lay down a garbage sack flat out and pour your water in on that---it will float as the water rises, and prevent your sand from kicking up hugely. Last of all, place your finest live rock on top of the rock.

If you don't wash your sand, you'll have so much dust you won't see your rock for a week. The good news is the dust will acquire a bacterial coating and stick together and sink eventually, but it's just easier to wash it, few cups at a time, in a large bucket. Lowes has 5 gallon poly (white) paint buckets. You'll find them very helpful. Mixing water is only one use. Washing things, a rescue tank for a problem, etc. Very useful, and they stack. You can set your best live rock to wait in your first mixed bucket of water while you deal with your sand and first rock layer, but keep aeration going in that, or you may start to have dieoff. Just keep mixing water and adding. Then just put your rock in and keep adding water as you get it mixed. Stack your rock higher as the water gets deeper.
 
when your mixing your water do your need to be 100% acurate on salinity in each bucket? or close and make sure the salinity in filled tank is perrfect?
 
When topping off you should use your ro/di water without salt mix, when the water evaporates from the tank the salt is left behind. So you need to dilute your tank water to get back to your desired SG.
 
Wow, I just registered for this forum and I am uber impressed. The knowledge is perfect for people just starting salt like me.... great job
 
SK8r,

Thank you for posting this I cannot tell you how often I refer to it and I even have it bookmarked. I'm just starting down the path to reef keeping and saltwater fish. I've had freshwater tanks for quite a few years now and decided to take the plunge into saltwater and being able to find and reference information from seasoned saltwater hobbyists has been very valuable in the use of my time and the direction I want to take.
 
Re the question about water changes: this is where you, once a week, toss 10% of the water in your tank and replace it with new saltwater. This is different than topping-off, which just keeps your salinity even. A water change like this is replacing what your corals and fish have drunk---yes, drunk. They drink what they breathe. Think about it: the water goes through their gills AND fills their stomachs: their bodies extract useful minerals from the water, and that mineral dose helps their bodies build blood, move (calcium powers contractile tissue---as well as builds bone/stony skeleton), and helps the nerves function. Magnesium, incredibly tiny proportions of boron, selenium, iodine, all those minerals are in that salt mix: read the content label. When you do your water changes, they supply these things back into your tank.

If you have a BIG problem with water quality, a 30% water change will not harm anything.

If you are on the brink of disaster, you can run a 50% change, but do it 25% on one day and 25% on the next. You do count sump volume in figuring a water change.

Your buckets need not match precisely, but the average of what you're adding in should be between 1.024 and 1.026, and so should your tank. A refractometer is your friend in so many operations! Memorize that number and make it part of your life: countless reefers have gotten into BAD, bad, bad trouble by forgetting that little zero.
 
Thanks for providing this very valuable wealth of information Sk8r!

I am in the beginning stages of a 54 gallon corner tank as well. I plan on having mostly lps and a few softies but I would also love to have an sps or two sometime in the future (red monti cap?). So I just wanted to know if the 150 W MH and 2x 65 W actinic lights that will be on my 54 would be sufficient for sps?
 
They would do better with 250 MH 10000k, esp the monti cap. Your tank is the same size as mine. I do very well with the 250 with euphyllias (frog and hammer) and also with monti cap, set high up.
 
They would do better with 250 MH 10000k, esp the monti cap. Your tank is the same size as mine. I do very well with the 250 with euphyllias (frog and hammer) and also with monti cap, set high up.

oo ok thanks. how exactly should i go about upgrading the lighting? the system is a coralife aqualight pro 150 W HQI. Is there a retrofit kit for it? sorry i don't mean to change the direction of the thread.
 
Now you're into DIY technicals, and I'd advise you get your model, size, ballast specs, and go to the DIY forum. They can help you. My 250 has a two-ended insert into the fixture, and I'm pretty sure you're going to have to change ballasts. You can't buy or sell on RC (except buy from sponsors) until you've been a member for 90 days and have 50 good posts, but if you have equipment in good condition that you want to resell, just pack it away nicely and when you qualify for the sales forums you'll be able to sell it to someone who needs less light. Meanwhile the DIY people can talk about retrofitting the fixture. I'd make one other stop by the lps coral forum and check out that 150 and see if anyone is keeping lps of certain species under that light---without going to all that trouble. The depth of your tank matters: mine's literally an arm's length: my fingertips can just touch the sand. And certain LPS like bubble coral actually like low light. It would be cheaper to just start specializing in lower-light lps like bubble, which if you can grow it, is always tradable. I provide hammer to my lfs for credit, and it's a good thing, because mine grows like crazy. You'll want to get tests and supplements for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium, and once your coral really starts growing and eating calcium by the teaspoon, putting kalk into your topoff reservoir will supply all the calcium a 50 gallon tank can use. Ask me about dripping kalk when you really get ready for that stage: easy, cheap, automatic, and the best way to have healthy corals in a medium tank.
 
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I noticed one of your first steps was about using dry sand and rock to start because it turns live. Can you emphasize on this a little more. I know it's slot cheaper but is it going to make your cycle take a lot longer?

I'm currently setting up a 90 gallon tank, should I use 50lbs of dry sand and maybe 2-3 bags of live sand?
 
I've never used live sand: it's ok to use, she says reluctantly, if it really is alive. If it smells like rotten eggs when you open the bag, don't use it. Personally, I use medium grade aragonite. A new sandbed, if connected to an old tank with a mature dsb, will set up in a couple of weeks or less...but rock, which is harder to permeate, won't. THat's why I consider live sand kind of a waste: you're going to have to take the extra time to let the rock 'set up', so why pay extra for live sand? By the time your rock has set up, dry sand has become 'live sand,' anyway.
To start with all live rock, 1-2 lbs per gallon, takes about 4 weeks to set up. And live sand just cannot shove bacteria deeper into that rock any faster, no matter what. Bacteria have to work their own way inward, and the 'right kind' of bacteria have to multiply.
Now if you're dealing with live rock that's been live and submerged in a working tank as late as yesterday, and kept submerged in a bucket (as in, say, a house move) you might see a small cycle in as little as 5 days. If you do it tank to tank inside your house, you might see hardly any cycle at all, if you start with your old sand well-washed, and I emphasize---very well washed in salt water, until the water runs clear. This would get out all the crud and leave only the bacteria.
If, however, you are starting from scratch, I recommend dry sand, and live rock, and if all live rock, it takes about 4 weeks. For a 30 gallon tank, that's between 100-200.00 worth of rock; for a 90 gallon, well, that's 300-600.00 worth of rock. BUT if you get base rock, ie, dry holey limestone or old dry dead coral, you're going to spend far less, if you're lucky, a couple of dollars a pound. That means your 30 gallon tank is going to use 60.00 worth of rock, and your 90 gallon tank is 150 worth of rock instead of 600.00. Use 10% really good rock, with a lot of creepy crawlies, and give it 8 to 12 weeks to cycle, then a month of letting hermits and snails working it over before adding your first (quarantined) fish, and you've gotten the equivalent of the priciest rock going, if you just treat it gently and way understock for the first 3 months of its career. Most of the creepy crawlies will survive a cycle, and help it along a little besides, with their poo, though with the 10% live setup, I would suggest that you feed the tank about 5 flakes of fish food per 50 gallons during the cycling process. This will give the creepy crawlies a better chance of survival.
It's a tradeoff. But live rock sources are getting fewer, the collection may damage reefs, and personally, I prefer to minimize getting live rock out of the wild.
 
That's makes a lot of sense, thanks for the reply.

How do you feel about using two 50 lbs bags of sakrete sand? Are there better options for cheap? And it says it's washed but would you recommend washing it again and how would you wash sand?

Also, at what point should the protein skimmer and lights be turned on in the process?
 
Not regular sand: that's silicon, as I understand it. Aragonite is calcium carbonate, and plays at least some small part in your tank's operation. Caribsea is a good brand. Do wash it.
LIghts and skimmer are covered above.
 
Great info, thanks.

For the sand bed, you said 1 lb/gallon. What would be the desired depth of the sand bed we're aiming for?

My setup (bought used) came with two heaters, but both have cracked plastic so I'll probably be buying new ones. What brand would you recommend?
 
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