Hyposalinity works great for Ick treatment

K

kimha

New member
My new blue powder tang got picked on by existing tangs all day long that it developed lots of ick everywhere from stress. I put him into a 10g tank last night and dropped the salinity to 1.009 based on instruction from this forum. Now 99% of the icks are gone and he is eating well.

A big thank to Who ever discover this simple hyposalinity method to cure ick. Even a newbie like me can follow the procedure to make it work the first time. Now I am not too concern about Ick :o
 
It is supposed to be the best treatment out there. Do you plan on putting it back in the display?
 
I am not sure if I should put him back to the display tank concerning that he may get ick again and infect others. I learned that blue power tang can get ick very easily from stress. What I plan to do is to remove all existing fish. re-arrange all the liverock to create new territories. Then put in the blue power tang in first so he get his territory establish first. Then introduce back other fish.
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but it will keep coming back. You need to Q-tine all your fish. I learned the hard way. I now have 10 fish in my display, and 2 tangs that had ich. Not bad, and they are free of it now, but it will pop up if I mess with the tank and **** em off. Even if your fish show no signs of ich, they can be carriers. Good luck....
 
kimha- pk1 is right, crypt will resurface when immune system is low. I have battled crypt MANY times w/ copper, formalin, natural voodoo b.s. cures, and hyposalinity. The best way that I've found to prevent it from resurfacing is excellent nutrition and preventing water parameter "swings" (mainly referring to temp. swings). If your fish are all getting along, eating well, and temp. fluctuations are approx. +-1 or 2 degrees, then all you need is Rod's Food or some other well balanced food that is comparable (I don't mean to constantly give a plug for Rod's Food, but I don't know of any other foods that are comparable :) ). This is all just my experience so take it FWIW.
 
You dropped it to 1.009 in one day?! :eek2:

Hypo treatment is recommended for a month, your PB tang will not fair well in a 10 gallon tank for a month...

Make sure you bring the SG back up gradually...

Good luck...
 
How big is the tang? If under 4" he'll be fine in there. Put a piece of pvc tube or something in there for him to hide in. He's got to stay in there at least 21 consecutive days with no sign of ick. If you see a spot, back to day 1.

Do you have a small UV to put on the fuge? There remains a good chance you'll see it again. Keep that SG down there. Just a bit of evaporation puts the SG up higher, and then you'll see the parasites survive. And even so...

I agree and disagree about the other fish. As long as they are eating, they should be fine.

I highly recommend feeding the tang the Seachem recipe I have described in a few threads (do an RC search on my name and the words seachem and focus to find the threads). When you reintroduce him, if there are any signs of ick on any of the fish, feed the display with the recipe for 3 weeks. BTW I mixed the medicine into Rod's food.

Hope it works out.

As for rearranging the tank ... know in advance that doing so will cause, not relieve stress, and may well provoke a tank-wide outbreak. I would not advise doing that.
 
Yes I dropped the salinity to 1.009 in one day, but not by changing 20% of water as mentioned in the procedure. I do it very slowly using 2 airline tubes. One tube go from the 10g tank to the empty 5g bucket. The other tube go from the fresh water 5g bucket into the 10g tank. The the water change rate is quite slow. Around 3 tiny drops per second. After 6 hours or so, the salinity level dropped from 1.025 to 1.012. Then I started adding 1 cup of fresh water at a time until it reached 1.009.

Today, the PB Tang is white spot free and eating well. The only problem I have now is how to introduce him back into the main tank without him getting Ick again. He is only 4 inches and other tangs in the main tank are 6 inches. So still need to come up with a safe and creative way to solve this problem.
 
In the past, I have separated a section of my tank with a piece of egg grate from home depot to quell the fighting. After 2 weeks I was able to take it out, and the fish have acted normal since. You can cut out a couple of sections to allow smaller fish, etc. to get through. IMO it will get ich again...hopefully after the transfer, a stress free home, with lot's of food, will help it keep the infection at bay. ;)

Patrick
 
Good idea. I will give that a try. Since I have some plexi glass around the house, I will use that to divide a small section for the PB tang.
 
If you use plexi/acrylic, make sure you put some holes in it in order to allow the water to flow freely. It would be much easier to use eggcrate ($9 for a 4'x4' piece at Home Depot).
 
I'm telling you, only because it sounds like you are about to do this, don't put that fish in there until it is spot free for at least 21 days, and look closely. ANY spots means ick is still there. You put it in there in the next few days, there is a 100% chance it will be reinfected.
 
The ick will still be there, regardless of how long he waits. The fish in the display have it..none have been quarantined.

Patrick
 
I definitely don't want to take any chances. It would be a BIG headache to have the entire tank infected with ICK. I just purchased a 90g Clarity plus RR tank, so he will go in there instead. Thanks for the advice.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7825837#post7825837 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pk1
The ick will still be there, regardless of how long he waits. The fish in the display have it..none have been quarantined.

Patrick
Click to expand...

This is not entirely right. A strong, healthy fish can develop natural immunity. The other fish may well have no signs or infection at all. A stressed, wounded or otherwise unhealthy fish is vulnerable. Get this guy fat and strong and spot-free for a few weeks, making sure it gets regular Selcon doses, and it should be fine on reintroduction, particularly with the clever idea mentioned with the divider.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7825939#post7825939 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by pk1
http://petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/hyposalinity.html

This conflicts with what I heard at IMAC though..I forget the presenter but they said to lower SG quickly, closer to Kimha's procedure. Who was that, Steven Pro maybe??

PK
Click to expand...
It might have been me. I have advocated a quick drop in salinity, but that is not based upon my opinion or experience. It is because Dr. Angelo Colorni, one of the first people to publish on using hyposalinity, recommends a quick drop.
 
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