ICH: how to cure it, id it, understand it.

My lack of punctuation may have made it hard to read.
Considering I had just finished a 39 hour shift of work its lucky the whole thing wasn’t a jumbled mass of words.
 
My lack of punctuation may have made it hard to read.
Considering I had just finished a 39 hour shift of work its lucky the whole thing wasn't a jumbled mass of words.

I had no problem reading it, I just stayed up for 39 hours watching re runs of Seinfield before I read it. Seemed fine to me. :wavehand:
 
Because i'm obessive compulsive, anal retentive, an editor, and a nerd...
The good old ich/white spot debate.
I'm by no stretch of the imagination an expert on this but have run in to (into) the ich problem a few times, and have spent many hours researching how to get rid of it. If your tank is like mine, catching fish is no easy task and you only get to catch a fish when it's very unwell.
From what i've found through research, and talking to many people, is that you can never get rid of it (ich) completely. Some fish are more prone then others, and yes the old debate that only stressed or unwell fish will get ich or white spot...
I have noted myself, in my tank that it seems only if the power has gone out for some time or some other mechanical failure has occured, and the fish are already stressed out, i do expect ich.
I now have a backup generator, if the power goes out.
Additonally, whenever i get any new fish i ask the shop to dose with 'stress guard'. Also, i no longer float fish in their bag in the tank but instead put them in a bucket and use an air line to siphon tank water to the bucket, then i add stress guard into the bucket.
The bucket seems to not stress out a new fish as much as floating the bag in your tank.
Fish
don’t normally swim at the top of the water as this is where something might eat it. In a bag your new fish can see the tank and other fish, yet can’t get to (hide) the tank. i
I have used 'medic' by polyp lab because it seems to be the only treatment that is 100% reef safe, but it does require dosing every 12 hours. Also UV and ozone will help to control it (ich) before it attaches to your fish. If anyone out there has more experience or success in treating or getting rid of the ich/white spot please let me know
 
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Top work Iridescentlily.
Being someone who spent more time and effort trying it on with girls ( including a brief forced stint of drama class with Rose Byrne during high school, whom I'm sure you all know is quite hot), instead of paying attention in english classes, I can completeley understand where Madasmick is coming from. Many of us actually had to get jobs to pay the rent and put food on the table around the same time we figured out we needed further education. You can guess which one wins out of the two.
It doesn't make you stupid, just ignorant. Ignorance is easily fixed.
The fact that he's a bannana bender is irreperable.:hmm4:
(Purely mucking around madasmick. please don't take offence as it's not intended).

Getting back to the ich!
Most of the time when people think they've beaten ich with good diet, impecable water and less stress in the tank, it's usually down to built up immunity, or a lack of visible symptoms. There are many studies and subsequent papers written on these different aspects of the parasite.
The studies go something like this. Good conditions ( for the fish), promote a natural immunity. Adding a new fish with ich( even if it's just one on the gills) will begin the whole immunity battle again.
Most fish do not show visible symptoms of infection. Not unless you take a gill cutting and observe it under the microscope.
Nurse. Get me a scalpel, STAT.
Ever notice how the fish with smooth skin are ich magnets? That's to do with the available area for the parasite to burrow in. Scales are much better at stopping ich for obvious reasons.
If you keep ich out of your tank in the first place it will be impossible for it to spontaneously appear.
My problem with this is that the QT proccess does not always guarantee success.
IMO dipping ( or continuous medication) is entirely necessary to for the QT method to be 99.99%. There is plenty of info out there on what will kill ich for certain but, unfortunately, many of these treatments seriously hurt the fish.
I have experimented with the hydrogen peroxide dips and found them to be extremely effective at removing even deeply embedded cysts. No gill cuttings here but the obvious guess is if the deep craters are sorted, the gills are pristine. That and the fact that the fish showed immediate improvement and minor discomfort throughout the treatment.
Copper is out in my books.
At the end of the day I choose not to quarantine because I dont' like the current treatments available and my tank is working towards four years and two incarnations. Ich is in there and it aint coming out unless I start again or find a suitable dipping proceedure.

PS.Please feel free to edit my puntuation or spelling. Proper english of course.
Also feel free to dissagree with my opinion and let me know why. It is a disscussion board after all.:beer:
 
Tank info for new guy

Tank info for new guy

Hey all new to the coral tank world for myself. Brother has been doing it for years and has it down but I have a question for anyone able to answer. I have only had my tank up and going for about a month or so, and have extremely well cured live rock that was intrduced to my tank but have what seems to me green coralline algea growth but its very rapidly growing along with the purple. I just want to know if there is a possible bad green item that this could be. I have been useing B-Ionic chem. daily and have heard that this stuff may make the coralline algea growth be this rapid. Any input is good input. Thanks
 
G'day Mate.
This is a thread on Ich. Probably not the best place to ask the question but I'll try anyway to save you some time. I hope no one else minds the sidetrack.
The green covering is cyano bacteria or" blue green algae" of the matting variety and is quite ok. Do a search for more detailed info.
It's a sign of the cycle taking place in your tank.
The cyano will out compete almost anything when it comes to nutrients in the water or rock, although over time (with low nutrient levels) the coralline will become the pest.
Welcome to the hobby.
 
How could a fish like a manderin that eats little living things be fed during QT? I would guess that the bare bottom rule would need to be broken for fish like jawfish, twin spot goby, fish that bury themselves to sleep, etc.

I would never trust the absence of visible symptoms of ich. Once a fish is eating well, I will always treat for ich before releasing fish to DT.
 
I have had luck with ich x. It works really well, plus water changes every day until it's gone.
 
Ginger might cure cancer but I'd stick with the chemo.
My tank recently proved my issue with most quarantine procedures. No new additions for well over a year and BAM. Marine velvet.
That means my heavily stocked tank was contaminated all along with no symptoms. No amount of time in a QT tank watching for so called signs will help you.
Using a QT, looking for parasites that require a gill cutting to be observed under a microscope, is like playing Russian roulet. Best to be the Booky.
Treatment of everything you put in your tank is needed if you want to rid yourself of these types of parasite.

Ginger= BS.
Garlic= BS.
Medic = BS. The boss could not answer my simple questions. He did say that the product would not work to rid the tank of parasites.
Hyposalinity= Yes if applied properly for 99% of the time.
Peroxide dips= Unknown quantity.
Copper= Bad for everything.

I don't believe in total quarantine as there is always something that people have missed that ends up biting them in the backside. 99.9% would be nice to see.
 
I think I'm more confused than when I started reading this thread.

Does not seem to be a definitive correct answer?

Get cleaner shrimp/ Cleaner shrimp don't work
Use Hyposalinity / Hyposalinity don't work
QT/ I don't QT
Use garlic / Garlic don't work
Punctuation/ Only when not tired

No one has mentiond this yet but is anyone willing to admit they ever said or at least thought about saying Fu*~ it!!
Ether these fish are going to beat it with there immune system, or they are going to die and the tank will stay fish less for 10 weeks and I'll start over from there.:spin2:

Sure glad ick don't efect coral :strange:
 
great job

great job

I have had a few problems with ick. It seems like at the beginning of my experiences every time a fish swam in an odd way I freaked out, then I would go to my fish store and buy something. Since then i have noticed our fish are a lot stronger than we give them credit for. I have one fish that gets ick almost every time i get something new. I have continued to do the same thing, provide the best I can and three days later he's perfect. Long story longer I am very happy to see everyone post nice, helpful ideas and experiences. It really helps when every other post isn't done by a know it all.
 
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