Ich in frozen food?

I never saw any spots on the fish but they ate in the morning and stopped and we're breathing heavy and hiding by evening. Male started flashing and rock scratching (same with the juv) so I treated with CP for ich. Two days later scribbled and juv were dead so I was convinced it was velvet,

ime, this does not sound like velvet? velvet kills by overwhelming the host, fish i've seen with velvet are covered, however, you never saw a spot?
 
I never saw any spots on the fish but they ate in the morning and stopped and we're breathing heavy and hiding by evening. Male started flashing and rock scratching (same with the juv) so I treated with CP for ich. Two days later scribbled and juv were dead so I was convinced it was velvet,

ime, this does not sound like velvet? velvet kills by overwhelming the host, fish i've seen with velvet are covered, however, you never saw a spot?

Nothing. Saw flashing, heavy breathing, erratic swimming, rock scratching. Fish were dead in 3 days even after administration of CP at the recommended ich concentration. I first thought it was ich until the scribbled died on the 3rd morning. If not velvet then what? This is why I'm so confused on what happened to these fish.
 
UV is really only affective for multiple tank systems to keep it from transferring to others. Like at Quality Marine, if memory serves me right. UV for parasitic control is not affective for a single tank. Spend the money for something else.
 
The million dollar question is how do I make sure my 625g isn't harboring whatever "it" is shy of tearing down the tank and starting over?
 
Nothing. Saw flashing, heavy breathing, erratic swimming, rock scratching. Fish were dead in 3 days even after administration of CP at the recommended ich concentration. I first thought it was ich until the scribbled died on the 3rd morning. If not velvet then what? This is why I'm so confused on what happened to these fish.

i would guess gill flukes, however, not sure??? ime, velvet is unmistakable; having seen it a couple of time, there's no doubt when a fish has velvet. i think people assume "fast deaths" are always velvet?
 
maybe its a cheap pump in the tank that does not always work right?

other wise I am also at a loss as to what happened, these fish looked great then within a few hours went downhill!
I say straight to the display next time, mine is always available :)
 
i would guess gill flukes, however, not sure??? ime, velvet is unmistakable; having seen it a couple of time, there's no doubt when a fish has velvet. i think people assume "fast deaths" are always velvet?

No way it was flukes, Brian had the male and scribbled for almost 2 months before I got them. The flukes would of dropped off when I formalin dipped.
 
maybe its a cheap pump in the tank that does not always work right?

other wise I am also at a loss as to what happened, these fish looked great then within a few hours went downhill!
I say straight to the display next time, mine is always available :)

The Jebaos are going in the trash... That's entire thread in itself on how crappy they are. I'm not a millionaire Eric, tough to buy vortechs or Tunze everytime. He also saw the fish and was around for the dip and transfer to the 75g that was sterile. What else kills in 3 days from onset of symptoms? My desjaradini had gill flukes 2 years ago for almost 2 weeks before treatment. Too boot the food I would feed to the 125g (the left overs) would go into the 100g Rubbermaid for the tang... Never the other way around. The tang is still alive, treated him just like the others minus the dip the male got. No spots on him either but he has to have whatever it is
 
So, it could have been anything in your tank, it may not have even been a parasite...could have been ammonia burn on the gills from shipping that was causing the flashing. It could have been aggression in the QT tank. Copper can also kill fish and is often hard to dose.
 
I read a article from ************ that sites hydrogen peroxide as a effective method of ridding fish of velvet? Anyone confirm or deny this? I'm really looking for a way to treat the 625 without breaking it down... If I was to treat with meds would it work without a fish present to make whatever it is go thru the life stages??
 
So, it could have been anything in your tank, it may not have even been a parasite...could have been ammonia burn on the gills from shipping that was causing the flashing. Copper can also kill fish and is often hard to dose.

I didn't use copper and they didn't come from a place that uses copper. I guess I'm just not going to figure this out. That doesn't bring me any piece of mind. More importantly would this show up out of no where after one weeks time?
 
I wouldn't do peroxide dip. Its now commonly believed in medical practice that it impairs wound healing, which you do not want to do in a velvet infested fish.

I think formalin dip is better since its been proven to work.

What made you believe it was velvet?


If the display has coral, I would put metro to kill off protozoans (brook, velvet, uronema) I'm not sure if it works on velvet though.

If it has no coral, I would bleach everything and start over rather than wait for fallow.


I read a article from ************ that sites hydrogen peroxide as a effective method of ridding fish of velvet? Anyone confirm or deny this? I'm really looking for a way to treat the 625 without breaking it down... If I was to treat with meds would it work without a fish present to make whatever it is go thru the life stages??
 
Based on your description, is it correct that you only treat in quarantine if you observe problems?

Like others have mentioned, its better to assume they might be carrying something and treat.
 
I personally dislike keeping live corals with fish because of the risk of disease and not being able to medicate.

For example, uronema doesn't need a host so fallow wouldn't work.
Metro and chloroquine might work but are light sensitive and corals need light.
 
Nothing but dry rock in the DT. Nothing else living. I meant peroxide at 150 ppm in the tank not as a dip. I do treat for things proactively but usually wait until fish are eating with gusto (which proved to be fatal and a bad idea)
 
Also anything not treatable like corals will be left in a tank for 72+ days by themselves to ensure no disease is being brought in be it corals or other inverts
 
I'm no expert but this is how I would quarantine.

This method should cover all basis:

Do tank transfer as snorvich recommends. Treat with prazi and metro during the transfer. Do either formalin or freshwater dips between transfers.

The transfer covers ich. The prazi covers flukes and tape worms. The formalin or freshwater dip causes brook, uronema, velvet to drop off. Of course once back in the tank, any remaining can continue to infect and that is where metro comes in.

The only thing not covered thus far is nematode, bacteria and lice.

I wouldn't treat for nematode unless the fish are angels or damsels, by feeding levamisole or fenbendazole.


Oh, and never freshwater dip starcki damsels, dwarf angels, and wrasses.
Use formalin instead for these.


The treatment for lice is dimilin or pesticides, which I prefer not to use. I wouldn't treat until I visually see them.

In terms of bacteria, I try to let my fish build immunity to bacterial strains in my local tapwater. In the beginning, some would get cloudy eyes or fins, but they generally heal on their own and develop immunity. I only treat if it gets out of hand.

I'm sorry you had so much trouble. Hopefully my advice would be helpful to you in the future.
 
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