ich!!!!!!! what should i do
- Thread starter adrian52492
- Start date
lpsluver
New member
This IS fun...
Here's mine
Cryptocaryon irritans has a direct four-phase life cycle (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). It does not have an intermediate host (i.e. snail, etc.) unlike some other fish parasites. The quadriphasic life cycle consists of both parasitic and off-host stages. These include the theront, protomont, tomont and trophont stages. The life cycle is usually 1 to 2 weeks at 24-27C (Colorni, 1992). The time frame of the life cycle can vary slightly between different isolates or variants of Cryptocaryon irritans (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). No dormant stage has been found in any study of its life cycle to date. However, Cryptocaryon irritans tomonts have an asynchronous excystment (hatching) time of 3 to 28 days (Colorni, 1985). The longest recorded period of time for tomonts to hatch is 72 days (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). The life cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans is temperature dependent so it is highly unlikely for such an extended period to occur in a tropical aquarium. From AQUARIUM FISH by TERRY BARTELME in Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine 2003
Alright maybe 3 months
Feed well to keep them as stress free as possible and treat in a hospital tank.
Come on only 10 more posts and I make my own avatar.
gasman059
The OG mad scientist
okok i give up-internet based genius u are LOL<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9968340#post9968340 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lpsluver
This IS fun...
Here's mine
Cryptocaryon irritans has a direct four-phase life cycle (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). It does not have an intermediate host (i.e. snail, etc.) unlike some other fish parasites. The quadriphasic life cycle consists of both parasitic and off-host stages. These include the theront, protomont, tomont and trophont stages. The life cycle is usually 1 to 2 weeks at 24-27C (Colorni, 1992). The time frame of the life cycle can vary slightly between different isolates or variants of Cryptocaryon irritans (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). No dormant stage has been found in any study of its life cycle to date. However, Cryptocaryon irritans tomonts have an asynchronous excystment (hatching) time of 3 to 28 days (Colorni, 1985). The longest recorded period of time for tomonts to hatch is 72 days (Colorni & Burgess, 1997). The life cycle of Cryptocaryon irritans is temperature dependent so it is highly unlikely for such an extended period to occur in a tropical aquarium. From AQUARIUM FISH by TERRY BARTELME in Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine 2003
Alright maybe 3 months
Feed well to keep them as stress free as possible and treat in a hospital tank.
lpsluver
New member
Hardly. Just goes to show you can find just about anything you want to support your position on the internet.
Me thinks you and I have similar philisophies when it come to the fishes. Yours is based on more practical years than mine though.Unless we have identical tanks with identical parameters, ect. what works for me or has worked may not now or ever work for you.
Have a good day Manny!
gasman059
The OG mad scientist
true-Bob just kidding LMAO<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9968392#post9968392 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by lpsluver
Hardly. Just goes to show you can find just about anything you want to support your position on the internet.
Unless we have identical tanks with identical parameters, ect. what works for me or has worked may not now or ever work for you.
Have a good day Manny!
I agree thats the beauty of this hobbyplanty of ways to kill livestock!
sirjohn
Feeding Frenzied
I am a firm believer that UV filters help prevent ich after using one for many years and seeing the difference vs. the time I did not use one. I personally would not run a tank without one. That being said, they are an aid not a replacement for good tank maintenance.
However, you should know a few things:
1) UV filters, if used correctly, really are meant to help prevent an ich outbreak by killing free-floating bacteria. Unfortunately though, they will probably not be very helpful in the face of a tank full of fish already infected with ich. It can only help though, so try it.
2) Get a UV filter that matches your tank (based on the wattage of the bulb), but don't go overboard. There is a tendency on the part of reefers (especially here on RC) to subscribe to the BIGGER IS BETTER camp on every piece of equipment they add to their tank. Here's a novel idea, let's follow the tank size the manufacturer recommends! It all depends on the particular unit, but I think you can't go wrong with an 18-25 watt unit (I do not subscribe to the "ALL UV FILTERS LESS THAN 40 WATTS ARE CRAP" crowd.
3) More important than the wattage really, is water contact time. Unless you get a UV filter that is specially designed for high flow (like the Aqua UV Classic for example), you need to make sure that the water is flowing slow enough through the UV filter to kill free-floating bacteria. Read the instructions to see what flow rates the manufacturer recommends to kill bacteria, then attach a ball valve before the input into UV filter so you can control the flow. One easy way without having to buy a flow meter is to time how long the water coming out of the line takes to fill a 1 gallon milk jug, and then do the math to get GPH. In my experience, it's normally around a flowrate of 250-300gph to kill bacteria.
Hope this helps.
However, you should know a few things:
1) UV filters, if used correctly, really are meant to help prevent an ich outbreak by killing free-floating bacteria. Unfortunately though, they will probably not be very helpful in the face of a tank full of fish already infected with ich. It can only help though, so try it.
2) Get a UV filter that matches your tank (based on the wattage of the bulb), but don't go overboard. There is a tendency on the part of reefers (especially here on RC) to subscribe to the BIGGER IS BETTER camp on every piece of equipment they add to their tank. Here's a novel idea, let's follow the tank size the manufacturer recommends! It all depends on the particular unit, but I think you can't go wrong with an 18-25 watt unit (I do not subscribe to the "ALL UV FILTERS LESS THAN 40 WATTS ARE CRAP" crowd.
3) More important than the wattage really, is water contact time. Unless you get a UV filter that is specially designed for high flow (like the Aqua UV Classic for example), you need to make sure that the water is flowing slow enough through the UV filter to kill free-floating bacteria. Read the instructions to see what flow rates the manufacturer recommends to kill bacteria, then attach a ball valve before the input into UV filter so you can control the flow. One easy way without having to buy a flow meter is to time how long the water coming out of the line takes to fill a 1 gallon milk jug, and then do the math to get GPH. In my experience, it's normally around a flowrate of 250-300gph to kill bacteria.
Hope this helps.
chinoxl3
Premium Member
