zenom
New member
Which Marco Rock did you get?
If you were to do it all over again, what would you do?
- Thread starter Brian DeGolier
- Start date
Which Marco Rock did you get?
biocube101
New member
Ive ordered Marco Rock and was going to use it to create a foam wall. I wish I would have took the time to do it now. I guess add that to the list of what I wish I would of done different...
Brian DeGolier
New member
Thanks mentioning this. What type of treatment do Marco rocks need to go thru before adding to the tank? Is it a fresh water soak?
MellowReefer
New member
Here's a post I just found about it, but I am sure there are longer ones with more detailed instructions you could find - you can just search "lanthanum chloride", I think that's the most popular method.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2352856&highlight=marco+rocks+phosphate
MellowReefer
New member
I'm pretty sure it was the Key Largo Dry Rock. 50 lbs package. There have been a lot of other people saying they had phosphate problems and they have Marco Rock. Also other people have said they have the same clear/white fuzzy algae problem on these rocks.
zenom
New member
The reason why I am asking is a lot of people complain more about their other rock then the key largo rock from what I have seen. Supposedly they cure their dry rock, which is why I was wondering. Supposedly after 2010 their rock is much cleaner, hype or not I don't know. I just ordered 100lbs, I plan on letting it soak and seeing where the phosphates go, then making the decision on acid bath or not.
MellowReefer
New member
Okay, I checked my receipt and it says Key Largo rock, ordered on 3/29/12. I swished them around in a bucket of tap water to get the sand off, that's it. I'm not blaming them though, maybe it's not a factor in my algae/phosphate problem, but I wish I had known to at least soak them and test the water for phosphate. Oh well.
mhucasey
Acros & wieners, oh my!
1) I would have made the mfg of my tank do a coast to coast external overflow. So much wasted space in the tank with an internal overflow.
2) I would have gone bigger.
3) I would have used coarser sand
4) Buy a spare for all critical equipment
One thing I did, that I highly recommend, is spend the money on a controller. They are worth their weight in gold. I not only control tons of things, but have alarms set that alert me when anything goes out of range or when I leave a pump in manual on for too long. It can save your reef...
2) I would have gone bigger.
3) I would have used coarser sand
4) Buy a spare for all critical equipment
One thing I did, that I highly recommend, is spend the money on a controller. They are worth their weight in gold. I not only control tons of things, but have alarms set that alert me when anything goes out of range or when I leave a pump in manual on for too long. It can save your reef...
Arkayology
Active member
What would I do if I could do it all over again? I would stop trying to chase ULNS with 0 phosphates and 0 nitrates. I would have saved myself a lot of time and money with this product or that method.
Brian Crook
New member
Interesting read - thanks for posting everyone.
I've been out of the hobby for years and am currently starting my 'dream' build of a 220g in-wall. Every now and again I worry about the 30" height of the tank and the real-estate that the dual megaflows take up, however I switched the dursos to herbies so that was a big improvement.
Anyways, we'll see how it goes!
I totally agree about the importance of easy water changes and ATO!! This was priority ONE for me in my new build.
I've been out of the hobby for years and am currently starting my 'dream' build of a 220g in-wall. Every now and again I worry about the 30" height of the tank and the real-estate that the dual megaflows take up, however I switched the dursos to herbies so that was a big improvement.
Anyways, we'll see how it goes!
I totally agree about the importance of easy water changes and ATO!! This was priority ONE for me in my new build.
wgood33
Member
6 years in the hobby, I should have:
Paid a bit more for a Eurobraced tank, the center brace on my 150gal restricts my lighting.
Researched a better overflow system, single pipe corner overflow here.
Maybe I should have avoided a deep sand bed in the main display, debateable. My sand is too fine and is prone to cynobacteria.
I have lots of flow but wish there were a way to draw water near the bottom of my display. There are dead spots in the flow down there and that makes things nasty.
Wait 10 months before adding a fish over $10.
Never would have bought a tang, not fair to any tang to imprison such a wanderer/grazer in an aquarium.
Paid a bit more for a Eurobraced tank, the center brace on my 150gal restricts my lighting.
Researched a better overflow system, single pipe corner overflow here.
Maybe I should have avoided a deep sand bed in the main display, debateable. My sand is too fine and is prone to cynobacteria.
I have lots of flow but wish there were a way to draw water near the bottom of my display. There are dead spots in the flow down there and that makes things nasty.
Wait 10 months before adding a fish over $10.
Never would have bought a tang, not fair to any tang to imprison such a wanderer/grazer in an aquarium.
RAJOD
Member
I would not have allowed lfs to copper my display and kill all the inverts.
Maybe 1 foot longer on length and 6 inches taller on stand. Current one only has 28" of clearance.
Current is 60" x 32 x 43 tall. Would go even taller if had ceiling room.
72" long would offer more sump options. Overall i came pretty close to what i wanted the first time.
Maybe 1 foot longer on length and 6 inches taller on stand. Current one only has 28" of clearance.
Current is 60" x 32 x 43 tall. Would go even taller if had ceiling room.
72" long would offer more sump options. Overall i came pretty close to what i wanted the first time.
crn005
New member
Three things:
1) I second the previous people that would like their tanks to be able to perform water changes without having to lift buckets and what not. I never forget to change my water but I sometimes convince myself that resting on a day off of work is just simply better.
2) I would get a bigger tank. I don't mind small, but the fact is, a 36 gallon bowfront with an accordingly sized stand doesn't leave much room in the stand. I would like a sump in a closet or something so I could have more accessibility, or at least a 6' tall skimmer. I live with my brother right now and he won't let me drill holes in his walls for some reason...
3) I would find a way to plumb in a frag tank into the main system. Keeping a quarantine tank up and running is enough of a PITA. A frag tank that uses the main filtration would be a blessing.
1) I second the previous people that would like their tanks to be able to perform water changes without having to lift buckets and what not. I never forget to change my water but I sometimes convince myself that resting on a day off of work is just simply better.
2) I would get a bigger tank. I don't mind small, but the fact is, a 36 gallon bowfront with an accordingly sized stand doesn't leave much room in the stand. I would like a sump in a closet or something so I could have more accessibility, or at least a 6' tall skimmer. I live with my brother right now and he won't let me drill holes in his walls for some reason...
3) I would find a way to plumb in a frag tank into the main system. Keeping a quarantine tank up and running is enough of a PITA. A frag tank that uses the main filtration would be a blessing.
+++1 as other have said I would have started with plumbing water, RO/DI, ATO, and water change system prior to even thinking about anything related to the tank.
These almost necessities enable you to be more diligent with water params, avoid making a mess when making salt water in a bucket or carrying pails. Having a proper utility sink, RO/DI, ATO and water change is a life changer and VASTLY improves the quality of the time you spend on your tank.
These almost necessities enable you to be more diligent with water params, avoid making a mess when making salt water in a bucket or carrying pails. Having a proper utility sink, RO/DI, ATO and water change is a life changer and VASTLY improves the quality of the time you spend on your tank.
Some things have already evolved like the remote sump in the basement, better skimmer, APEX controller. Shallower and longer would have been a better and more efficient than my deeper tank (though I am constrained, so it is moot...) for the SPS I like. Less sand than I originally started with, Saphire glass, skip the 'gyre' thinking (a box of rocks and water sets up its own preferences for water current). Insulated sump.
