Keep in mind that 2 pumps will only produce twice the flow if the returns are plumbed completely separately (which is probably your intent). If you were to plumb two identical pumps into the same discharge header, you would have an increase in flow, but it wouldn't be 2x.
Im getting ready to set up a 200 g and i have many questions
- Thread starter jsedita74
- Start date
Keep in mind that 2 pumps will only produce twice the flow if the returns are plumbed completely separately (which is probably your intent). If you were to plumb two identical pumps into the same discharge header, you would have an increase in flow, but it wouldn't be 2x.
jsedita74
New member
also i just about ordered all the equipment i need.. before i move on to the plumbing stage i was thinking of adding something like this http://www.nextreef.com/reactors.html. do i need this and is it hooked into the plumbing or do i just make room in the sump. i dont know but i feel like a nitrate and phosphate reactor would only help right? im starting to get pumped!
jsedita74
New member
i picked up one of these today brand new in the box never opened just a lil dusty for 50 bucks !!!!!!!! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...ff99bfd&itemid=350308450552&ff4=263602_263622
jsedita74
New member
how is this wavemaker for my 4 koralias? is it worth it? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=350257175131&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT
Using a pump curve I was able to find for the PCX-40 (wasn't as easy to find as it should have been), it looks like you would get ~ 1000 gph (per pump) if you just do a simple plumbing job w/ 3/4" PVC (assuming the pump is the stand, below the tank, with 5' elevation difference to the water level in the tank).
If your bulkheads are 1" and you run 1" PVC, you can probably gain ~ 100 gph. If the bulkheads are 3/4" and you run 1", that reduction for the bulkhead eats up most of the gain from the lower line loss in the larger pipe.
Again... these values are based on simple assumtions, and minimum distance of pump to tank. If, for example, you had the pump in the basement, with a 25' pipe run w/ 6 elbows and an elevation rise of 17', the flow would be ~ 484 gph.
If your bulkheads are 1" and you run 1" PVC, you can probably gain ~ 100 gph. If the bulkheads are 3/4" and you run 1", that reduction for the bulkhead eats up most of the gain from the lower line loss in the larger pipe.
Again... these values are based on simple assumtions, and minimum distance of pump to tank. If, for example, you had the pump in the basement, with a 25' pipe run w/ 6 elbows and an elevation rise of 17', the flow would be ~ 484 gph.
kvosstra
New member
Ok - It's been mentioned already, but let me clarify...is this your first saltwater tank?
If so...please step back for a few days, read some posts here and take the time to enjoy the hobby. A lot of the questions you are asking can be answered simply by reading posts from other reefers.
Lights - the lights you purchased will work fine - you will want to replace the stock bulbs at some point - but most folks use them for 6-8 months first, and then replace them. There are many posts about what color bulbs to get, how long to run them, etc. So I wont answer that here.
Pumps - the genX pumps are a quality pump - you probably DO NOT need both running at the same time. Many folks only run a few hundred GPH through their sumps, since the bottleneck is the overflow capacity. As well, more flow through the sump makes for microbubbles in the main tank display - which takes away from the water clarity.
Various NextReef media chambers - the media chambers are valuable - I have never used NextReef, so I wont comment on them, I will only say that I use 2 chambers, each run off a manifold from the main pump, one for GFO (granular ferric oxide) to remove phosphate, and one for carbon. The carbon is changed every 2-3 weeks, the GFO changed every 4-6 weeks.
Koralia magnum pumps- these are in-tank pumps, to create flow. More pumps with higher GPH, reduces the need to use higher GPH return pumps...this saves you electricity in the long run. These pumps are NOT controllable! So, they are basically on or off. These are AC pumps - controllable pumps are DC and are more expensive, but are controllable.
The "wavemaker:" That is simply a device that powers the switches on/off. I would not use it with the Koralia as they will burn out quickly being cycled on/off at that rate. If you want to use them on a "wave maker." I'd heed the suggestion of another person above and get a controller (Neptune, profilux, reefkeeper, etc. all make reputable controllers). With the controller, you can program when particular outlets are on or off. For your koralia's for example, to create some random flow, you might turn on pumps a and b for 6 hours, then off, and switch with pumps c/d on/off for 6 hours. This would create a "tidal" change in the tank, and would allow the pumps to go on/off only a few times a day.
Plumbing - plan this out! Seriously..take some time, look at other tanks in this forum. Before each pump, please, please, please make sure that you include a union and a ball valve, so that you can service the pumps, without having to drain some of the tank water. Take a look at some of the sponsors (bulkreefsupply comes to mind) and look at their plumbing selection - for true union ball valves.
plumbing size - use as large of plumbing as possible- larger diameter plumbing reduces head pressure thereby allowing more water to travel - make sure that the overflow and drains can handle all the water from the pumps! I would use 2X sized drain as compared to return - so 1.5" drain to .75" return from the pump. also, calculate the head pressure, as suggested above, to get an idea of the amount you will be facing.
Skimmer: I have not used this skimmer, but it seems sufficient for your tank.
Sump: I'm glad that you got a larger sump - is this a plain 75g tank? If so, you will want to add some compartments in there so that the water level in the skimmer section stays constant, then a return section (water drops in this section - so you can add an auto-top-off to add fresh water to the tank to keep salinity stable), baffles - to reduce bubbles, etc... (check out melevsreef.com for some examples of how to build a sump - also a sponsor of this forum).
Wow...there are still lots of things to consider, so take a look at what I said, and take some time to read about the issues.
If so...please step back for a few days, read some posts here and take the time to enjoy the hobby. A lot of the questions you are asking can be answered simply by reading posts from other reefers.
Lights - the lights you purchased will work fine - you will want to replace the stock bulbs at some point - but most folks use them for 6-8 months first, and then replace them. There are many posts about what color bulbs to get, how long to run them, etc. So I wont answer that here.
Pumps - the genX pumps are a quality pump - you probably DO NOT need both running at the same time. Many folks only run a few hundred GPH through their sumps, since the bottleneck is the overflow capacity. As well, more flow through the sump makes for microbubbles in the main tank display - which takes away from the water clarity.
Various NextReef media chambers - the media chambers are valuable - I have never used NextReef, so I wont comment on them, I will only say that I use 2 chambers, each run off a manifold from the main pump, one for GFO (granular ferric oxide) to remove phosphate, and one for carbon. The carbon is changed every 2-3 weeks, the GFO changed every 4-6 weeks.
Koralia magnum pumps- these are in-tank pumps, to create flow. More pumps with higher GPH, reduces the need to use higher GPH return pumps...this saves you electricity in the long run. These pumps are NOT controllable! So, they are basically on or off. These are AC pumps - controllable pumps are DC and are more expensive, but are controllable.
The "wavemaker:" That is simply a device that powers the switches on/off. I would not use it with the Koralia as they will burn out quickly being cycled on/off at that rate. If you want to use them on a "wave maker." I'd heed the suggestion of another person above and get a controller (Neptune, profilux, reefkeeper, etc. all make reputable controllers). With the controller, you can program when particular outlets are on or off. For your koralia's for example, to create some random flow, you might turn on pumps a and b for 6 hours, then off, and switch with pumps c/d on/off for 6 hours. This would create a "tidal" change in the tank, and would allow the pumps to go on/off only a few times a day.
Plumbing - plan this out! Seriously..take some time, look at other tanks in this forum. Before each pump, please, please, please make sure that you include a union and a ball valve, so that you can service the pumps, without having to drain some of the tank water. Take a look at some of the sponsors (bulkreefsupply comes to mind) and look at their plumbing selection - for true union ball valves.
plumbing size - use as large of plumbing as possible- larger diameter plumbing reduces head pressure thereby allowing more water to travel - make sure that the overflow and drains can handle all the water from the pumps! I would use 2X sized drain as compared to return - so 1.5" drain to .75" return from the pump. also, calculate the head pressure, as suggested above, to get an idea of the amount you will be facing.
Skimmer: I have not used this skimmer, but it seems sufficient for your tank.
Sump: I'm glad that you got a larger sump - is this a plain 75g tank? If so, you will want to add some compartments in there so that the water level in the skimmer section stays constant, then a return section (water drops in this section - so you can add an auto-top-off to add fresh water to the tank to keep salinity stable), baffles - to reduce bubbles, etc... (check out melevsreef.com for some examples of how to build a sump - also a sponsor of this forum).
Wow...there are still lots of things to consider, so take a look at what I said, and take some time to read about the issues.
kvosstra
New member
without more details, its hard to know exactly. However, I would say that the 1 would be sufficient. You might want to consider something like a "oceans motions" with 2 ports, so that your return would vary, but that would only be needed if you were going to make this a reef tank.
have you decided on whether this is a FOWLR or a reef tank?
have you decided on whether this is a FOWLR or a reef tank?
kvosstra
New member
please answer the questions we have presented before I offer any more advice.
1. Is this your first saltwater tank?
2. Reef or FOWLR?
3. Planned plumbing, (calculate the head for us)
4. More plumbing - what is the tank rated for (overflow GPH), how many holes and what size are they?
5. Are you using a manifold to plumb the chiller, skimmer, calcium reactor, media chambers...or are you going to use individual submersible pumps for each of these?
1. Is this your first saltwater tank?
2. Reef or FOWLR?
3. Planned plumbing, (calculate the head for us)
4. More plumbing - what is the tank rated for (overflow GPH), how many holes and what size are they?
5. Are you using a manifold to plumb the chiller, skimmer, calcium reactor, media chambers...or are you going to use individual submersible pumps for each of these?
jsedita74
New member
It's not my first saltwater tank I been in the hobby over 20 yrs but I've only been playing w baby stuff . 55g was the biggest tank I had. I was in the minors. Never did I imagine what the hobby entailed and how much it had evolved. I am taking in tons of info from you guys. Best 24$ I ever spent ! Lol . I'm going to start fowler but eventually would like to slowly venture into reef. I think I have the equipment to handle it. I'm purchasing everything according to this forums advice and of course my budget which might I add has swelled enormously !!! As far as the planned plumbing I'm not quite sure what you mean but everything will be under the tank. My holes are drilled in the bottom of the tank. The stank is 36 inches so with the pumps sitting on the bottom of the tank so the distance would be 36 inches straight up to one skimmer box and then add 84 inches to that to run plumbing across to the other box unless done how I can put a pump on each side of the sump/fuge then it would just be 36 inches straight up. As far as the reactors go I was thinking of going with individual pumps for easier servicing. As far as what the overflows are rated at I'm not quite sure. All I know is it's an oceanic tank I think 215g I have posted a pic on here somewhere maybe you see an make an educated guess? No chiller as of now and the skimmer has it's own pump and sits in the sump. Im going strictly on your guys advice. The stand is coming together and I'm picking up the 75g Tom . I'm just about ready to get thevplumbing started but I need to know if I need another pump . And also if it's possible to design the sump/fuge in a way where I can put the pumps ob both ends so they sit directly under the return holes. Thank you so much. I'm waiting for a concrete answer to make my next move... Thanks
AJT
Member
Maybe this will help. Its pretty dirty down there but hopefully it will help explain one way you can do this.
If you have a protein skimmer with built in pump you would only need 2 pumps in my opinion.
Redundancy! One pump will fail eventually. I use 2 Mak IVs.
There are many ways to accomplish what you want this is just one way. However my tank has been set up for 20 yrs this way & it works.
I use 4 tunzes inside for water movement. Vortecs are on my office tank.
.02
If you have a protein skimmer with built in pump you would only need 2 pumps in my opinion.
Redundancy! One pump will fail eventually. I use 2 Mak IVs.
There are many ways to accomplish what you want this is just one way. However my tank has been set up for 20 yrs this way & it works.
I use 4 tunzes inside for water movement. Vortecs are on my office tank.
.02
