I'm having big fun now...390 display +
- Thread starter mflamb
- Start date
samson78945
New member
wow..unbelievable!! ur tank in like 4 times the size of mine!! but parent's house so i cant go bigger yet..i mean i am only 19! when i move out thats when the real fun begins!! o and even ur sump is bigger haha! keep up the great work
I built a rack for 2 barrels. One is for fresh water for top off. The other is for mixing salt water. They are plumbed through one pump into two separate lines that run underground to the tank.
Here's a drawing of the system provided by ReefArtist:
Tomorrow I'll install the RO/DI unit above the water heater.
Here's a drawing of the system provided by ReefArtist:
Tomorrow I'll install the RO/DI unit above the water heater.
Ah64av8tor
Premium Member
Mike, Ill have salt water in my 150 tomorrow
When will you be ready for some live sand?
When will you be ready for some live sand?
Ah64av8tor
Premium Member
I think I will be fine for a while, with the stonework in place and a 6' DSB I will need 200lbs, and another 75 for the fuge. I think between the 65 and the 120 there is about 500lbs.
I installed the RO/DI unit today.
The valve underneath and to the right is the waste water line plumbed to the rose garden. The valve to the left will go to the swimming pool. I'll finish that this week. NO WASTED WATER !!!
I tapped into the water heater supply line.
I used a valve to turn the unit on/off.
The valve underneath and to the right is the waste water line plumbed to the rose garden. The valve to the left will go to the swimming pool. I'll finish that this week. NO WASTED WATER !!!
I tapped into the water heater supply line.
I used a valve to turn the unit on/off.
ReefArtist
In Memoriam
That's a great idea - about tapping into your water heater supply line. Do you happen to know what the connector is called that you used? This is a sweet setup, very nice job mflamb!
I used a saddle valve. It's made for tapping into copper pipe. You attach the valve and turn the tap into the pipe and then turn it back out and the water flows. I have cpvc pipe, so I turned the water into the heater off at that ball valve by the saddle valve. Then I drilled a hole in the cpvc and installed the saddle valve using the tap as a guide into the drilled hole. Then I opened the tap and BINGO!!!
Ah64av8tor
Premium Member
I know you have been working on the setup, so how about an up date?
Yo Greg, I've been finishing the plumbing on the drain from the RO/DI to the rose garden and swimming pool. I also have been finishing the sump drain through the wall to the local sewer system for my water change system. Nothing pretty to take pictures of.
I set up the 50 QT to keep the sand alive I got from you. That's some premium stuff!!! Tons of Cerith and Nesarrius Snails, and lots of little orange? and white/clear worms in the sand. I have a double biowheel setup on it and a Coralife 125 skimmer on it. I threw some fish food in there to "energize the life", and that's when I found all the small Nesarrius snails.
I set up the 50 QT to keep the sand alive I got from you. That's some premium stuff!!! Tons of Cerith and Nesarrius Snails, and lots of little orange? and white/clear worms in the sand. I have a double biowheel setup on it and a Coralife 125 skimmer on it. I threw some fish food in there to "energize the life", and that's when I found all the small Nesarrius snails.
Last edited:
Ah64av8tor
Premium Member
Mike,
The Nassarius Vibex snails are great sandbed cleaners and scavengers, they only eat dead meat, leftover food, detritus and wont harm anything. I have seen egg masses from the Nassarius snails but haven't found any babies. The Cerith snails are home grown babies born in my tank.
I think you will have to come down and get a few hundred more Nassarius snails when your sandbed in the 390 has aged for a few months.
I am getting tired of my current 1 gallon pitcher top off system on my 150, I have done some work on the auto topoff / RO/DI / water change system but, I will have to pick your brain on Saterday.
The Nassarius Vibex snails are great sandbed cleaners and scavengers, they only eat dead meat, leftover food, detritus and wont harm anything. I have seen egg masses from the Nassarius snails but haven't found any babies. The Cerith snails are home grown babies born in my tank.
I think you will have to come down and get a few hundred more Nassarius snails when your sandbed in the 390 has aged for a few months.
I am getting tired of my current 1 gallon pitcher top off system on my 150, I have done some work on the auto topoff / RO/DI / water change system but, I will have to pick your brain on Saterday.
WarDaddy
New member
Very nice...
I wan to build me a double float switch system that in turn powers one of these:
http://www.autotopoff.com/products/solenoid/index.htm
My 10 gallon top-off tank sits behind my display so that I do not need a pump to power the top off. I believe the solenoid is normally closed, so in the event of power loss I will not dump my top off solution.
I wan to build me a double float switch system that in turn powers one of these:
http://www.autotopoff.com/products/solenoid/index.htm
My 10 gallon top-off tank sits behind my display so that I do not need a pump to power the top off. I believe the solenoid is normally closed, so in the event of power loss I will not dump my top off solution.
WarDaddy
New member
oh yea... ditch that 9v battery and go with a 9 volt DC adapter... the battery runs dead faster than you would expect. Of course you do not notice it until you hear your pumps sucking air and see the million bubble in the display. Not that I have had that happen or anything.
EDIT.. you said RELAY not Battery... of course you thought of that, you were not going the battery route, were you
EDIT.. you said RELAY not Battery... of course you thought of that, you were not going the battery route, were you
Ah64av8tor
Premium Member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=9691258#post9691258 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by WarDaddy
Very nice...
I wan to build me a double float switch system that in turn powers one of these:
http://www.autotopoff.com/products/solenoid/index.htm
My 10 gallon top-off tank sits behind my display so that I do not need a pump to power the top off. I believe the solenoid is normally closed, so in the event of power loss I will not dump my top off solution.
Bryan,
I was there last night looking at the same one. I like this float switch
I want to have the double switch control the auto top off and drip kalk from my stirrer 24/7 running them both through the same mechanical float mounted higher in the sump for extra flood control. Im thinking that when ever the auto top off kicks in it will wash away any kalk build up on the valve to insure it will work properly when needed.
WarDaddy
New member
That sounds reasonable...
This is how I will do mine...
Basically... top off water is above everything.
1/4" tubing comes out of the bottom of the tank (john guest Bulkhead fitting) and then t's. One leg going to the sump for top off... it is triggered when ever the water level is low.
leg 2 goes to the kalk reactor and then the sump.
It is always on, flow reduced to a drip by a valve. if the water level raises to high, the second float valve will shut both solenoids.
----
Using what you are saying... you could do it a little different...
2 bulkhead fittings. 3 solenoids. 1 t fitting. 2 valves
2 feeds from the top off, valve at each to shut off the system, then solenoid for auto control.
1 feed to the kalk reactor, one to the sump. Have the kalk t back to the main top off line, so that when the top off kicks in it will clean the kalk out put, one final solenoid as a fail safe that would close off when the high water water switch is tripped....
hummm...
This is how I will do mine...
Basically... top off water is above everything.
1/4" tubing comes out of the bottom of the tank (john guest Bulkhead fitting) and then t's. One leg going to the sump for top off... it is triggered when ever the water level is low.
leg 2 goes to the kalk reactor and then the sump.
It is always on, flow reduced to a drip by a valve. if the water level raises to high, the second float valve will shut both solenoids.
----
Using what you are saying... you could do it a little different...
2 bulkhead fittings. 3 solenoids. 1 t fitting. 2 valves
2 feeds from the top off, valve at each to shut off the system, then solenoid for auto control.
1 feed to the kalk reactor, one to the sump. Have the kalk t back to the main top off line, so that when the top off kicks in it will clean the kalk out put, one final solenoid as a fail safe that would close off when the high water water switch is tripped....
hummm...
poknsnok
New member
ive gotten stuff from them. lasts forever and effective. Ive always wanted to automate my RO/DI as an auto top off but have been wary due to some things Ive heard about the initial small amount of water coming from the unit being full of impurities and dumping into the tank.. So I never did it.... But I would love the automation
Last edited:
Similar threads
