In desperate need of help!!! Video inside!!

[Palting]

You have to understand the idea behind the reverse durso.

So, the water rushes down the drain mixed with air trapped within the rush, like a waterfall effect. Beofre the water is released to the sump, you have to 1) slow the water down to allow the air and water to separate easier, and 2)allow the air to escape separate from the water.

There are several ways to do this. One way is that picture I showed you. The rushing water slows down in the big T, bubbles rise to the surface and air escapes thought the large funnel, and bubble free water comes out the other end that is under water.

In that picture you posted and the drawing that stingythingy45 posted, the horizontal poart of the 90 has to be at the water line or below. Otherwise, you will have a second waterfall effect. Also, the picture and drawing have an error: they show an end cap. That upper end of the vertical tube has to be open, to allow the air to escape, otherwise it will again just bubble up from the bottom end, again creating the noise you so want to get rid of. So, the end cap MUST have a hole in it. You can further improve the efficiency of this particular configuration if you make that vertical tube much larger. This larger tube will make the water even slower before release to the sump, giving a greater chance for the air to escape without bubbling the water output.

A much more efficient and quiet system than the reverse durso is the beanimal or the herbie drain system. Thats the drawing by lagatbezan. This system is dead quiet. It does require quite a bit more reconstruction, but you can research atht if you like.

 

[thereeftank]

learn something new everyday, this will help me out too. I have the dursos in the overflow, but never heard of a reverse durso in the sump.

 

[brewski4u1]

You have to understand the idea behind the reverse durso.

So, the water rushes down the drain mixed with air trapped within the rush, like a waterfall effect. Beofre the water is released to the sump, you have to 1) slow the water down to allow the air and water to separate easier, and 2)allow the air to escape separate from the water.

There are several ways to do this. One way is that picture I showed you. The rushing water slows down in the big T, bubbles rise to the surface and air escapes thought the large funnel, and bubble free water comes out the other end that is under water.

In that picture you posted and the drawing that stingythingy45 posted, the horizontal poart of the 90 has to be at the water line or below. Otherwise, you will have a second waterfall effect. Also, the picture and drawing have an error: they show an end cap. That upper end of the vertical tube has to be open, to allow the air to escape, otherwise it will again just bubble up from the bottom end, again creating the noise you so want to get rid of. So, the end cap MUST have a hole in it. You can further improve the efficiency of this particular configuration if you make that vertical tube much larger. This larger tube will make the water even slower before release to the sump, giving a greater chance for the air to escape without bubbling the water output.

A much more efficient and quiet system than the reverse durso is the beanimal or the herbie drain system. Thats the drawing by lagatbezan. This system is dead quiet. It does require quite a bit more reconstruction, but you can research atht if you like.

so when making this the 90 has to be under the water line then a 2in straight piece to the T fitting anda 4-5in vertical w/ a cap w/ ahole or no cap at all. correct?

also if i switch out my 1in pvc to 3/4 will it make a difference?

 

[brewski4u1]

reverse durso!! try!

reverse durso!! try!

Ok well i went and finally set up the reverse Durso w/ the 3/4in pvc, and its the same if not worse! I made the pipe going straight up up to 9in out of the water and water still blows out the top and gurgle/bubble like crazy ! i'm about to give up!! :angryfire::angryfire::uzi::uzi:

 

[lagatbezan]

Don't give up man. Every system needs some sort of fine tuning or redesigning. Give the herbie design a shot (I posted a pic of it here before). Easy to make and dead silent. Trust me.

 

[stingythingy45]

Any reason why you went to 3/4?
Why didn't you stay with 1 inch drain?Did you try the reverse durso with 1" drain?
The T section should be bigger then the drain line.It should be above the water line.
The top and bottom extensions should be of larger diam. than the drain line also.
Where the 1 in. drain line enters the T use a reducer.
I'm thinking you might need a 2" T.

 

[Palting]

Ok well i went and finally set up the reverse Durso w/ the 3/4in pvc, and its the same if not worse! I made the pipe going straight up up to 9in out of the water and water still blows out the top and gurgle/bubble like crazy ! i'm about to give up!! :angryfire::angryfire::uzi::uzi:

What that means is that the water flow is still too much for the size of that vertical tubing, that's why bubbly water still blows out the top. You want only air to come out of the top, and water only out the bottom. It realy isn't about length, but more about width of that tube.

Don't give up. There are other options, if you can't get this to work. The Herbie/beanimal design is another one, dead quiet.

 

[brewski4u1]

so i guess i'll give it a try w/ 1in Pvc instead. and see how that works.

or maybe i'm just building it incorrectly.

where should the 90degree be in relation to the water line also where should the t be full under water or half ??

 

[stingythingy45]

Here's a picture of my reverse durso in my 70 gallon basement sump.
I only use it now to devert the water from my recirc. skimmer so I can empty the cup without spilling foam into the sump.
Notice how the T and the upper and lower pipe are larger than the overflow pipe?
Don't glue anything together till it works perfectly.
The T is above the water.

 

[brewski4u1]

a home depot run is in my future before work today! lol give it another try maybe go from a 1in to a 1 1/2in??

 

[Palting]

I'd go bigger, like 1" to a 2". I have some PVC pieces at home, and I can take a picture of what I am suggesting later today if you want.

 

[brewski4u1]

Ok so since i'm going to home depot in the next 30 min. I guess i'll try and get 2in if they have everything there.

 

[stingythingy45]

It will just take a while to locate the reducer for it.
Good luck.

 

[brewski4u1]

for what 2in to 1in ?? maybe i would be better to go to 1 1/2 then?

 

[alexrex20]

or maybe you could just go to Home Depot and see what they have.

 

[brewski4u1]

Well went to Home Depo, Lowes, and a PVC supply warehouse and no one has a reducer from 2in to 1in. So i got a 1in to 1 1/2 that is going to go on the straight down section to a 1 1/2 90 to a 1 1/2 t fitting but its the t fitting that has the sloped entrance not the sharp drop off like a regular t fitting. hopefully this works.

when it comes to fine tuning it what would i do make the straight peice to the T fitting longer?? or make the piece coming up w/ the cap longer?

 

[Palting]

You guys have no imagination . Get a 2"-1.5" reducer, a 1.5" connector, then a 1.5"-1" reducer. Or, one of the elbows can be a 1.5"-1" reducer. I't will look like Frankenstein, but who cares if it works, right? I used to spend a good amount of time at Lowes just dry fitting tubes. Some of the guys there took it as a challenge and came up with all sorts of even crazier ideas. LOL! Anway, you already bought it, so see if it works.

There are connectors you can purchase to make any end of the T-piece longer if your t-piece ends are threaded. If it's not threaded but a slip end, you can get PVC that fits, in this case 1.5", and cut to length.

 

[Palting]

OK. Just so y'all don't say I'm just blowing smoke up anyone's you know what, here are some pics. I had these from my old tank that made a heck of a lot on noise before I put this contraption. Don't need these anymore, and I keep them as hiding places when I do a QT.

That is a 2" T fiiting. To the right are two 2"-1" reducers, one seen sideways, one seen head on. To the right of those is a short piece of 1" PVC, and to the right of that is a 1" -3/4" reducer elbow. Up top is a 2" diameter black plastic stove pipe for sewers and what not. All the fittings are slip fittings.

Here is what it would look like put together:

Now, that doesn't look like a Frankenstein, does it ? I had a cap with a hole in it that I placed on top of the black stovepipe, but I cannot find it now. It insulated the bubbling sound even further, and this was quiet. All you could hear was a low pitched gurgle if you stuck your head inside the cabinet. Close te cabinet and move 1 foot, all you hear was the electric hum of the fans in the light fixture.

 

[brewski4u1]

Ok so problem solved! yess! thrilled dead quiet ! so stoked....... and then new problem.


It seams that the water level in my display has risen.:headwally::headwally::headwally: Could the cause of this be that i'm running 1in to 1 1/2 below and 3/4 in the over flow and not enough water is making down?? Should i be running 1in up top as well? any ideas?? I'm running a durso in the over flow as well.

Also i'll post a few pics of my Frankenstein tomorrow so you all can see my mess it took to shut this tank up! All i hear is my return pump and that's a easy fix!

 

[brewski4u1]

well here is the pic just have to glue in a few of the pieces.
<a href="http://s37.photobucket.com/albums/e64/Brewski4u1/?action=view&current=IMG_20110726_111317.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e64/Brewski4u1/IMG_20110726_111317.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>


now does anyone have any ideas on how to fix the new problem?