In search of a disease and parasite free tank.

[jmm]

I had a tank that I just couldn't "cure" of something. It may have been flukes, ich or velvet. I tried CP and it kind of worked, but the problem would return in a few weeks.

I took out everything alive (fish only tank with hermits). Then I put bleach in the system. I could smell it that night two floors away. Everything turned white. I then changed the salt water to fresh water and added powdered peroxide, very strong. Then I changed to more fresh water, removed the sand and rocks and ran carbon on the tank. While the rocks were out I acid washed them and then fresh water. The sand was fresh water washed until it ran clear and had no smell. The marine pure blocks were soaked in bleach again and then fresh water. Each of these steps took one or two days.

I returned the rocks and sand, changed to new RODI water and carbon filtration. After a week I changed the RODI water again and added salt. Then I started the system with Dr. Tim's and pure ammonia. After a week with ammonia and nitrite dissipating in 12 hours or less I put in hermit crabs that had been kept in a tank that has never had fish.

NOW THE QUESTION: It is my plan to add a CUC. How long do I need to wait after that to be sure the CUC didn't bring something into the tank? I also want to add pods. When?

 

[ThRoewer]

You should see at least some algae before adding pods or CUC.

If it was me, I would add at least some fresh live rock to get some biodiversity in. The idea that you can control what goes into the tank is foolish at best. The first living thing you add will come with a Zoo of microbes, good and bad.
Also, a sterile tank is much more prone to outbreaks of bad things because the bad guys find all the ecological niches unoccupied and can therefore multiply uninhibited.

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[Sk8r]

Fish are the main reason diseases get in, and most of the parasites. Develop a coral reef, dip and examine your corals, and add fish only of resistent species, after ample qt procedures. It's not that hard to create a problem-free tank if you just view fish with a jaundiced and suspicious eye.

 

[jmm]

You should see at least some algae before adding pods or CUC.

If it was me, I would add at least some fresh live rock to get some biodiversity in. The idea that you can control what goes into the tank is foolish at best. The first living thing you add will come with a Zoo of microbes, good and bad.
Also, a sterile tank is much more prone to outbreaks of bad things because the bad guys find all the ecological niches unoccupied and can therefore multiply uninhibited.

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I have algae. I've already added 3 small hermits. I have a small piece of live rock in the "waiting tank" that is disease-free. I'll add that. That tank was started to house 2 small butterflies and a juvenile regal angel for 5 weeks after TTM with formalin and Prazipro. They've now been in there for nearly 6 months waiting for the other tank to be cleaned. They are fat, healthy and growing in their bare-bottom PVC decorated tank with one shrimp and one live rock. I have other tanks with corals. This 120 is for the butterflies. Thanks for responding.

 

[jmm]

Fish are the main reason diseases get in, and most of the parasites. Develop a coral reef, dip and examine your corals, and add fish only of resistent species, after ample qt procedures. It's not that hard to create a problem-free tank if you just view fish with a jaundiced and suspicious eye.

I will most definitely quarantine the fish that will go in there. But, in this tank, the only invertebrates I'm interested in are shrimp, snails and hermits. Maybe an urchin if the snails and hermits can't keep up with the algae growth. I have a 210 mixed reef with fish that is trouble free. That's enough coral for me. Thanks for responding. I always learn a lot from you.

 

[Naraku]

I would have let the tank dry first. You can be surprised what can survive bleach.

I had a tank that I just couldn't "cure" of something. It may have been flukes, ich or velvet. I tried CP and it kind of worked, but the problem would return in a few weeks.

I took out everything alive (fish only tank with hermits). Then I put bleach in the system. I could smell it that night two floors away. Everything turned white. I then changed the salt water to fresh water and added powdered peroxide, very strong. Then I changed to more fresh water, removed the sand and rocks and ran carbon on the tank. While the rocks were out I acid washed them and then fresh water. The sand was fresh water washed until it ran clear and had no smell. The marine pure blocks were soaked in bleach again and then fresh water. Each of these steps took one or two days.

I returned the rocks and sand, changed to new RODI water and carbon filtration. After a week I changed the RODI water again and added salt. Then I started the system with Dr. Tim's and pure ammonia. After a week with ammonia and nitrite dissipating in 12 hours or less I put in hermit crabs that had been kept in a tank that has never had fish.

NOW THE QUESTION: It is my plan to add a CUC. How long do I need to wait after that to be sure the CUC didn't bring something into the tank? I also want to add pods. When?

 

[jmm]

I would have let the tank dry first. You can be surprised what can survive bleach.

Bleach was strong for 24 hours. Peroxide was strong for 24 hours. Fresh water was changed every 24 hours for 3 days. Then RODI water for 2 days, changed and then salt added.

Rock were removed and acid washed, then dried for several days. I hope nothing survived.

 

[ThRoewer]

I would be more concerned of toxic residue than survivors. I would add some pods as test specimen to see if they survive before adding anything else. If those survive wotk your way up from cheap hardy CUC members to the more sensitive ones.

 

[jmm]

I would be more concerned of toxic residue than survivors. I would add some pods as test specimen to see if they survive before adding anything else. If those survive wotk your way up from cheap hardy CUC members to the more sensitive ones.

Toxic residue was a concern for me, too. That's why so many water changes with fresh, then RODI water and 3 cups of carbon changed twice. Then salt and more carbon.

The toxic residue of concern to me was "old" CP, bleach, peroxide powder and byproducts from using them.

So you would add pods now?

I took your advice and put two small rocks, one from bare bottom tank and one from zoa tank. The zoa tank rock had a bristle worm and a couple of pods on it. The bare bottom tank rock had algae on it. I'm adding two more hermits (total of five).

 

[ThRoewer]

Yes, just get a bottle of Tigger Pods and dump it into the tank. You can feed them with flake food. That way you do the cycling and create a pod bloom for your fish to feed on when you add them.

 

[Naraku]

keep in mind the clean up crew can bring parasites.

 

[jmm]

keep in mind the clean up crew can bring parasites.

See, that was my original question, not a discussion of what I've done because it's already done. I want to know how long before I can consider the CUC won't contribute to what I have sought to eliminate.

 

[jmm]

Yes, just get a bottle of Tigger Pods and dump it into the tank. You can feed them with flake food. That way you do the cycling and create a pod bloom for your fish to feed on when you add them.

I like this idea a lot.

 

[Mishri]

90 days after adding a cuc you should be able to add fish. (that's for ich, most other parasites hatch/die in a fallow tank before that)

 

[Naraku]

I think ich and brook, you can wait out.
I think uronema and mycobacteria will be there to stay if the CUC brought them in.

I've heard that some CUC can tolerate CP so maybe you can try that to be safe.

 

[Mishri]

yeah.. I've read snails would die with CP but I've had snails survive CP, shrimp died, crabs lived. probably hit or miss on whether it will tolerate it or not.

I dunno if it's worth dosing CP for uronema and mycobacteria.. most say just keep your fish healthy and it shouldn't be a problem.

 

[jmm]

Yes, just get a bottle of Tigger Pods and dump it into the tank. You can feed them with flake food. That way you do the cycling and create a pod bloom for your fish to feed on when you add them.

Where would I find these?