Info Please on Hillbilly Hottub?

CleveYank

20 Years and Over
Bought 100 gallon rubbermaid livestock tank at tractor supply.
Saw insert in the thread. ID of insert is 1 inch thread.

Anyone know is the insert glued in and sealed or does that have to be removed some how and sealed? It didn't want to move when I tried unscrewing it by hand.

Anyone know? TY
 
All of the Rubbermaid 100g tubs I have seen are 1 1/4" drain plugs. The one I have here has a square molded on the plug that you can grip and loosen. If it is too tight just grab it with some channel locks or an adjustable wrench.

It is sealed from the factory as far as I know.
 
probably took me longer to post it.

Thanks Kevin.

Figured I'd save some time from fill/pump out leak test if someone knows. Guess no monday night football for me. GTG play with sumps and sand.
 
make sure it is tight mine leaked a few drops every 30 min or so and it was a pain in the a$$ to seal after I had sand in it
 
Rubbermaid stock tank bulkhead

Rubbermaid stock tank bulkhead

Just my opinion,remove and throw away original bulkhead,replace with quality one! A couple of dollars well spent.
 
I bought a one a few weeks ago, got it about half full of water and had a strong leak. Pulled the plug out of the bulkhead, put on teflon tape and screwed it back in, leak was just as bad. Struggled like crazy to get the rubbermaid installed bulkhead off, discovered that they put a gasket on both the inside and outside of the bulkhead, with the result that when they tightened the nut down on the outside it pushed the outer gasket into the hole in the tub, breaking the seal of the inner gasket, removed the outer gasket and got a good seal and no further leakage.
 
hmmm

I don't get it now.

The thread reducer was the question I was wondering about.
It looks like it's glued in place. I have adapted to little giant for everything to fit their reducer. Didn't think I'd have to play fiddle about again.
Well, I guess freshwater fill and drain is the thing now. Thought I could cheat. Guess not.

I'm using it as a sump. Going to be finally hooking up my 7 foot skimmer. My Ca reactor. And this sump will allow for automated water changing. Surges for nitrate filter. Refugium/growout. And whatever little reef tank games I decide to put it through it's paces. All of this is to get things plug and play for "the biggie".

Anyway, thanks for all who chimed in about possible woes.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11186303#post11186303 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by CleveYank
hmmm

I don't get it now.

The thread reducer was the question I was wondering about.
It looks like it's glued in place. I have adapted to little giant for everything to fit their reducer. Didn't think I'd have to play fiddle about again.
Well, I guess freshwater fill and drain is the thing now. Thought I could cheat. Guess not.

I'm using it as a sump. Going to be finally hooking up my 7 foot skimmer. My Ca reactor. And this sump will allow for automated water changing. Surges for nitrate filter. Refugium/growout. And whatever little reef tank games I decide to put it through it's paces. All of this is to get things plug and play for "the biggie".

Anyway, thanks for all who chimed in about possible woes.

Wow! Good stuff. This is something I may do down the road. I will be interested in hearing how it works.
 
I have one of those 100's and had the same problem of it leaking slightly. At the time I had a great deal of faith that a factory part was going to work the way it should.
I lucked out because after a day or so it stoped its very slight drip and has not leaked since but the first chance I have I will be swapping out parts.

Other than that the tub is great as a sump/ refu/ and general fun to keep stuff in tank. I am also running my skimmer out of it
 
After finally looking at it in detail. (I thought it was all molded and that there was threaded insert. Seen them before thought that was what this was too...DOH!)



You're Right!!!! Boy that Bulkhead is JUNK!!!!!!!!!!

Made a silicone gasket to suppliment the ones it came with and tightened it down. Don't have time to track down/order bulkhead. After it skins I'm going to fill it with warm water to see what it does. It's got basically a continuous gasket from the inside through the hole and on the outside. Since I put a very thin wrap of teflon tape on the threads and some vaseline on the nut where it moves against outer rubber gasket, it will come back off should the need arise.

I may consider Briney's direction and get a good bulkhead, but I am about 4 out of 5 odds it will hold. Yeah, yeah, I know bank 200plus milli and acro frags on $12 to $30 part. However, since I no longer jump out of planes or other or drive a motorcycle at 130plus anymore(god I loved the Suzuki GS1100)...consider this one of my futile attempts at living on the edge baby.


Yeah I guess I'll sing out about progess.
 
I am not sure if its edgy or not but a floor full of salt water really isn't that much fun.
Normally, I am not too much of a chance taker, but rolled the dice that the stop would stay stopped for now.
With the open house and starting a dozen other projects with my students, I have limited myself to just the stuff leaking right now.

not that I would give that as advice to someone else though
 
The problem is its a stock tub, if its sitting out in some farmers field full of water for his cows a 2gal/hr leak is inconvenient, in my fish room a 2gal/hr saltwater leak is a disaster.
 
well leak test is good...BAFFLE ADDITION THOUGHTS?

well leak test is good...BAFFLE ADDITION THOUGHTS?

Guess the silicone gasket addition was good. Leak test was good and tie in for pump and shut-off and bypass are also good. I'm a go for the rest of the project. Should have 2 tanks added to the mix after next parasite nuke. Especially since made 400watt onboard ballast MH into remote setup.

I noticed that these livestock tanks are difficult to add baffles to. Conventional adhesives don't like to stick to them and the bonds are rumored to eventually fail.

Other than drilling and adding large plastic bolts and gasketing them in place to seal. Anyone come up with a better method than that or than getting welder designed for bonding the materials to the tub material? Welder option appeared fiscally unsound.

Any thoughts?
 
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