Installed Glass-Holes 700GPH kit, overflow box is quiet, but my PVC pipe isn't..Help?

[sjm817]

:thumbsup: :dance: :bounce3: :celeb1:

 

[uncleof6]

So what I did was cut out the 90 degree elbows and installed SpaFlex. I figured what the hell 45 degree elbows won't be as good as SpaFlex. I also angled the bulkhead elbow slightly to the left so that my water flows at an angel fluidly to the sump, NOISE IS GONE!!!!!!!!!!!!

SpaFlex is great! I bought 1.5" SpaFlex @ HomeDepot.... used the blue Rain n Shine PVC Cement for the SpaFlex and regular clear cement for the PVC side of my coupler.

Here is a picture of how it came out for people who have been following for ideas:

And Thank you everyone for your suggestions and opinions, and a special thanks to uncleof6 (Jim) who has replied with ideas and suggestions in each of my threads these last weeks on my first build, your knowledge has helped out alot, must be a great uncle to have, want a nephew?


Thanks everyone!

Got 6 of them already, I think............might be 8--9? Can't keep track of them. 4 niece/nephews and the rest are their children, so yes I am a great uncle.

Jim

 

[Maivortex]

The only way to make the overflow silent is to have 2 holes drilled. You should have gotten the 1500 gph kit that has room for 2 holes. One hole is drilled slightly lower then the other. You can also add another overflow. The lower hole operates at a full siphon and is completly submerged. This is accomplished by putting a valve in the return line of the lower hole. The other hole sits a little higher and its main function is accomodate any water that can not fit thru the full syphon. The bottom line: 2 drain lines, one at full siphon the other with just a trickle.

 

[austin93]

My 700 kit was loud until I turned down the flow for a few months. After that I turned it back up and there was enough slime in the pipes that I didn't have the water noise anymore. Be patient, nothing happens fast.

 

[KromiX]

the box isn't dead silent but im going to put some enkmat on it to stop the noise falling into the box, once thats done I'll know how silent it is, but it sounds silent in the pipe and sump compared to before... so lets see...

 

[KromiX]

Lots of bubbles are coming into the sump from the drain and bubbling to the surface causing noise and bubbles, what are some ways to stop that air from doing that in a situation like this where air is in the drain?

 

[KromiX]

So Morning Update:


After putting in some Filter Floss, The overflow is now officially dead silent.

The only noise I have now which I want to try to atleast dampen a bit, is the noise from the sump, the water draining out from the pipe with lots of bubbles, and those bubbles make the noise it seems... The pipe is underwater by about 2 inches. I read some people use a sock there, how does that help the bubbles and the noise I'm not understanding?

Any other suggestions?

 

[kimber45]

i would try a "t" as ezhoops suggested in the second post.

 

[KromiX]

I don't think I have the option of doing that, not enough room, i'm using spaflex now, and I'd have to add too much to get that too work and I don't have the room in there :|

 

[jacksonpt]

I have a 45 on the end of my spa-flex which helped. Also, keeping the end of the drain line submerged in the sump will help.

 

[d0ughb0y]

I went throught this as well (noise in sump due to bubbles), and the T will fix it. It is called a reverse durso (you need to use a much larger sized bottom pipe). If you just simply follow the instructions you see for setting up a reverse durso, you will think you do not have enough space, but if you get creative, I am sure you can modify the design to fit any available space. I had no space also but figured a way to add the reverse durso and its now quiet

BTW, if you do not make the lower pipe (below the T or 45) larger diameter, then the bubbles will overflow the top part of the T, sort of like a skimmer, well come to think of it, it is a skimmer and make a lot of mess with lots of spilled stinky water. That happened to me. So make sure you use the larger diameter pipe on the lower part.

 

[KromiX]

right now I have 1 1/2" SpaFlex

Your saying use the 1 1/2" T, and make the bottom (water) side of the T have a 2" pipe with a pvc coupler and the top part of the T 1 1/2" pipe?

 

[d0ughb0y]

yes, that is the correct idea.
you can start with 1 1/2 at the bottom. if your flow is not much, that will probably work already. my drain pipe is 1" and if I slowed down the return pump enough, I can get it to work with 1" bottom pipe. But at the flow I need, I went for a 3" bottom pipe.
You need to add a cap with a hole on the top of the T so it works like a muffler, otherwise you will still hear all the gurgling bubbles.

 

[KromiX]

Does the T need to be positioned in a certain way or as long as one end is above water one is below its ok?

 

[d0ughb0y]

That is right. The bottom pipe just needs to be below the water line, the upper pipe where air goes out, the longer the better. I did not have clearance, so mine was really short.

 

[KromiX]

Duplicate post.

 

[KromiX]

That is right. The bottom pipe just needs to be below the water line, the upper pipe where air goes out, the longer the better. I did not have clearance, so mine was really short.

I am connecting the T directly to the spaflex right? or do I need an elbow as well?

And, the longer the better on both sides or just the air side?

 

[d0ughb0y]

the drain (your spaflex) goes to the horizontal (middle) part of the T. the lower side is limited by your sump depth, but say 4" to 6" under water is fine. the upper side just needs to be long enough because sometimes bubbles may take longer to pop, and you do not want the bubble to go all the way to the top. if that happens, then this contraption sort of becomes a skimmer. Its sort of the same principle with some skimmers where you can adjust the neck length.

you can control the bubble to not reach the top by either making the top pipe longer, or making the bottom pipe larger or a combination.

 

[KromiX]

the drain (your spaflex) goes to the horizontal (middle) part of the T. the lower side is limited by your sump depth, but say 4" to 6" under water is fine. the upper side just needs to be long enough because sometimes bubbles may take longer to pop, and you do not want the bubble to go all the way to the top. if that happens, then this contraption sort of becomes a skimmer. Its sort of the same principle with some skimmers where you can adjust the neck length.

you can control the bubble to not reach the top by either making the top pipe longer, or making the bottom pipe larger or a combination.

Added a Y adapter instead of a T, based on the angle the drain is coming into the water, both sides 1 1/2" pipes, really long on the top, biggest I can fit for the air, and a pipe all the way down to the bottom of the sump, noise gone, 95% of bubbles gone. THANKS GUYS!