introducing my 870gal tank (pics ahead)
- Thread starter RalfP
- Start date
Well ;-)
I found some Cyanobacteria growing on the sand and some stones the past months. I guess that the high growth of the coral may be the reason for that.
Growing into the water and slowing the watermovement down.
I added 2 new Tunze pumps and one from vortech.
Half of the tankwater was changed during two weeks.
The two frag tanks, that ran on the same sump-pump, than the maintank were moved in another tankroom/filtersystem in the cellar. More Maintank water is flowing through the sump now.
I also rearranged the coral near the center of the tank.
I wanted the water and my view to be able to flow through the reef again.
I paused the recontruction work for about a week now to observe the system
for some time, not doing too much at a time.
The Cyano thing seems to get better and better, I think I will continue
reconstruction next week.
Thanks for asking,
this is what it looks like in it's current "at work" state.
Anthony neto
New member
Awesome RalfP very nice tank :smokin:
Hi Elliott,
The only kind of Tissue Necrosis I see from time to time is that one coming from the bottom
of the coral as a result of changed light and/or watermovement with a slow development.
As I understand, RTN is the one starting at the top of the colonie, having a rapid deveopment?
If so, I have no RTN at all.
Regarding the parameters, I think salinity is the most important one, because I see the other paramaters in relation to it.
Having a higher salinity means having more alkalinity, ca, mg etc..
I first measure sal. ( 35 promille) and correct it with my weekly waterchange, than other measurement is done.
Keeping alk., Ca, Mg up with adding chemicals (as I do) means also interacting with the sal..
Ca/Mg (420/1340) is done with a combined (Tropic Marine) testkit and KH (10) also with a Tropic Marine kit.
I think PO4 in a low PO4 environment (< 0.025ppm) can be seen in the brown colour of the coral tissue. So I take this bio-indicator and change PO4-absorbing media if tissue gets brown.
In the moment, I also take NO3 figures, because I add NaNO3 to the system, because my NO3 is < 1ppm and I want to hold it at about 2-4 ppm against the Cyanobacteria.
Best,
Ralf
Thanks to all of you.
Mark,
it's still here, not growing in length anymore, but still gaining volume
.
When no food is added, it most of the time stands under a large SPS, being less active than in younger times. Still nice and healthy, but starts to nibble on Xenia and other soft coral (no problems with that, less softs to cut back.
Did you finally find yours?
Thanks,
Ralf
Mark,
it's still here, not growing in length anymore, but still gaining volume
.When no food is added, it most of the time stands under a large SPS, being less active than in younger times. Still nice and healthy, but starts to nibble on Xenia and other soft coral (no problems with that, less softs to cut back
.Did you finally find yours?
Thanks,
Ralf
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14138090#post14138090 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RalfP
Did you finally find yours?
That thing is a beast
Yep, I pick up mine back in April for my 180. I am afraid I will either need to upgrade of donate this fish to a bigger system
Thanks again...
Mark,
hopefully you manage to keep yours, it's such a great fish. Poisonous but nice.
porthios,
maybe I wrote something wrong, i'am not that good in writing english language.
I started the tank doing high amounts of waterchanges with my previous system,
so there was a lot aged, biologically active water.
I use the dosage pumps for alkalinity, ca, mg, etc. support. With my method of adding those, I have to add some salt, which raises the salinity. To keep the salinity constant, I automatically (hose pumps) remove some reefwater.
So there is a automatic waterchange (low volume) but not intended as such.
The normal 5-10% waterchange a week is also done with pumps (but others/high volume),
1 or 2 rainbarrels (200 or 400 liters) of newly made up seawater (at least 2 days aged).
Untamed12,
there are a lot of little dead spots were they hit each other.
Different coral are "nettling"? different. The big Hydnopora, I removed from the center-pillar in the reef did it a lot. All surrounding Acropora/Seriatopora had bigger dead spots.
Now it's standing near a Pavona cactus and a Mycedium, which have no problems with it.
Acropora standing near another Acropora, Seriatopora, Poccilopora, Montipora normally results in only very little spots.
Hmm, somehow I feel it's different if you put coral close together, or they grow naturally into each other. Have a look at the big brain in the center. At it's right side, it won the fight for living-room as you can see by it's shape and the shape of the next coral.
There is about 1/2 " dead tissue between them.
Maybe it's also a matter of size... Coral are quite big, so spots appear quite small.
Best regards,
Ralf
Mark,
hopefully you manage to keep yours, it's such a great fish. Poisonous but nice
.porthios,
maybe I wrote something wrong, i'am not that good in writing english language.
I started the tank doing high amounts of waterchanges with my previous system,
so there was a lot aged, biologically active water.
I use the dosage pumps for alkalinity, ca, mg, etc. support. With my method of adding those, I have to add some salt, which raises the salinity. To keep the salinity constant, I automatically (hose pumps) remove some reefwater.
So there is a automatic waterchange (low volume) but not intended as such.
The normal 5-10% waterchange a week is also done with pumps (but others/high volume),
1 or 2 rainbarrels (200 or 400 liters) of newly made up seawater (at least 2 days aged).
Untamed12,
there are a lot of little dead spots were they hit each other.
Different coral are "nettling"? different. The big Hydnopora, I removed from the center-pillar in the reef did it a lot. All surrounding Acropora/Seriatopora had bigger dead spots.
Now it's standing near a Pavona cactus and a Mycedium, which have no problems with it.
Acropora standing near another Acropora, Seriatopora, Poccilopora, Montipora normally results in only very little spots.
Hmm, somehow I feel it's different if you put coral close together, or they grow naturally into each other. Have a look at the big brain in the center. At it's right side, it won the fight for living-room as you can see by it's shape and the shape of the next coral.
There is about 1/2 " dead tissue between them.
Maybe it's also a matter of size... Coral are quite big, so spots appear quite small
.Best regards,
Ralf
Hi again,
Elliott,
yes, I keep NO3 that (in my system) normally is undetectable (<1ppm) at 2-4 ppm.
IMHO there are two major environments were Cyanos appear.
Polluted water with lots of sediments or very clean (too clean?) water.
I consider Cyanos being a primary colonialist, growing were others can not grow,
because of wrong or low nutrients etc.
Of course there are other parameter, which help growing (wrong light/watermovement etc.).
Correcting the watermovement/quality together with raising the NO3 to a state were it is at least detectable should give other livings a fair chance (coraline algae etc.), so there is no place for a primary colonialist any more.
Additionally there is a growth and color benefit of the coral if they have some nutrients.
Having many fish, less coral this is no issue, but here its the other way round.
The coral coloration depends imho highly on the frequent 5-10% waterchange a week.
PO4 as I said seems to make the coral brown (more symb. algae?), so you can't see through it anymore (being not able to see the color). Too many traceelements will also make the tissue brown.
Frequent waterchanges (maybe different salt brands) will supply enough traceelements; additional should only be used in very low (about 10% of recommended) volume.
Giving coral at least a litte to eat (NO3/Aminoacids/right fishfood-coral weight etc.) if you have a low nutrient environment also helps. Iodine also seems to help, but that produces to many unwanted algae, so I do not add it anymore.
Thanks for asking,
Ralf
Elliott,
yes, I keep NO3 that (in my system) normally is undetectable (<1ppm) at 2-4 ppm.
IMHO there are two major environments were Cyanos appear.
Polluted water with lots of sediments or very clean (too clean?) water.
I consider Cyanos being a primary colonialist, growing were others can not grow,
because of wrong or low nutrients etc.
Of course there are other parameter, which help growing (wrong light/watermovement etc.).
Correcting the watermovement/quality together with raising the NO3 to a state were it is at least detectable should give other livings a fair chance (coraline algae etc.), so there is no place for a primary colonialist any more.
Additionally there is a growth and color benefit of the coral if they have some nutrients.
Having many fish, less coral this is no issue, but here its the other way round.
The coral coloration depends imho highly on the frequent 5-10% waterchange a week.
PO4 as I said seems to make the coral brown (more symb. algae?), so you can't see through it anymore (being not able to see the color). Too many traceelements will also make the tissue brown.
Frequent waterchanges (maybe different salt brands) will supply enough traceelements; additional should only be used in very low (about 10% of recommended) volume.
Giving coral at least a litte to eat (NO3/Aminoacids/right fishfood-coral weight etc.) if you have a low nutrient environment also helps. Iodine also seems to help, but that produces to many unwanted algae, so I do not add it anymore.
Thanks for asking,
Ralf
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