introducing my 870gal tank (pics ahead)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14144037#post14144037 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by RalfP

yes, I keep NO3 that (in my system) normally is undetectable (<1ppm) at 2-4 ppm.
IMHO there are two major environments were Cyanos appear.
Polluted water with lots of sediments or very clean (too clean?) water.
I consider Cyanos being a primary colonialist, growing were others can not grow,
because of wrong or low nutrients etc.
Of course there are other parameter, which help growing (wrong light/watermovement etc.).
Correcting the watermovement/quality together with raising the NO3 to a state were it is at least detectable should give other livings a fair chance (coraline algae etc.), so there is no place for a primary colonialist any more.
Additionally there is a growth and color benefit of the coral if they have some nutrients.
Having many fish, less coral this is no issue, but here its the other way round.

The coral coloration depends imho highly on the frequent 5-10% waterchange a week.
PO4 as I said seems to make the coral brown (more symb. algae?), so you can't see through it anymore (being not able to see the color). Too many traceelements will also make the tissue brown.
Frequent waterchanges (maybe different salt brands) will supply enough traceelements; additional should only be used in very low (about 10% of recommended) volume.
Giving coral at least a litte to eat (NO3/Aminoacids/right fishfood-coral weight etc.) if you have a low nutrient environment also helps. Iodine also seems to help, but that produces to many unwanted algae, so I do not add it anymore.


interesting observations, thanks again for your comments
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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14144033#post14144033 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hurley675
Any FTS?
Click to expand...
Ahh, finally I figured out what FTS means. First I thought about a disease ;-).
Unfortunately there is no actual one. The last one is somewere further up in this thread.
I will post a new, when the reconstruction work is done. It's some more work; setting lights/flashlights, closing all curtains etc. to be able to see the cladding and the tank.


@FUA
I just read in the April 2008 TOTM article about Joseph Weatherson's Air Injection System and discovered, that this is a "revisited" TOTM. So yes, it's possible to nominate twice :-).
Interesting to compare the two articles and see what changed and developed over the time.

Best,
Ralf
 
I use the dosage pumps for alkalinity, ca, mg, etc. support. With my method of adding those, I have to add some salt, which raises the salinity. To keep the salinity constant, I automatically (hose pumps) remove some reefwater.
So there is a automatic waterchange (low volume) but not intended as such.

perfect, thank you very much.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14181131#post14181131 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jjk_reef00
You have quite the collection of anthias in there. What is the ratio of male to female?
Click to expand...
Hi,
reefski's right, totally I dropped-in 14 females. Now there are 2 male, 10 female, 2 somewhere in the middle of that (longer fins, slightly other color that other females).
Best,
Ralf
 
Ralf-your tank is looking awesome, TOTM x2- are you still burning the same geismann marine MH bulbs and how many times have you had to change them? Thank you in advance-Joe
 
Hi Joe,

yes, still the same 4*400watts giesemann type ("megachrome coral") http://www.giesemann.de/74,2,,.html,
changing them after 12 months, because there is less blue light after that time.
About the same wattage in T5 Bulbs (Aquascience blue:Aquascience special 1:1) makes the light even more blue.

Thanks a lot,
Ralf
 
Back when you won TOTM I recall thinking it was one of my favorite tanks ever. Ranked up there with Steve Weast's.

Looking at these pictures NOW (and I don't mean this to sound disrespectful)...the TOTM full tank shot doesn't even look good next to what it looks like now.

Hands down my favorite tank ever. It's rare that a person gets TOTM and then climbs higher. A lot higher!

Thanks for sharing.
 
Thank you very much again for your kind words.
Well, regulary work is not as much as one would think...
But recontruction and clipping works are a pain ;-)

Best, Ralf
 
Hi Ralf,

Sorry to bother you.
One of my friend did have same size of tank just like yours.
He is reluctant to use Zeovit for his system.
Your comment is much appreciated.
Thanks.

Ching
 
Hi Ching,

no problem, thanks for asking.
But I am sorry, I am in no way a Zeovit pro or even a Zeovit user at all.
Having bright colored coral, mainly SPS in a tank IMHO means having very low nutrients, in the system.
I think that its a fine line between too many nutrients, having brown SPS-tissue and lots of algae and too low nutrients, coral tissue dying, Cyanobacteria taking over etc.
Personally I'll stay a little on the high nutrient side, slightly brown tissue and not taking the risk of getting too low.
The Zeovit system (as I understand it) creates a very, very low nutrient environment, artificial feeding coral to keep them alive etc., that's not the way I personally trust in.

As I understand, Iwan Laesser from http://www.hausriff.ch/ (wasn't there a thread somewhere around?) recently changed to Zeovit, maybe he is a better source of information.
There is also a forum http://zeovit.com that might help.

Best,
Ralf
 
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