Is 86-87 degrees reef safe (Ich Treatment)

[R_Mc]

I have it, I have the ich... It came on two clowns, and now it's in my system. I have a mixed reef and live in an apartment. A hospital tank is out, and so is copper.


I've read a lot regarding Ich and it seems as though a popular approach is to increase the water temperature to ~87 degrees. Supposedly, this increases the life-cycle of the ich to point where it can not effectively thrive in an aquarium. I have also read that this applies more to fresh-water ich and that marine ich's metabolism is less dependent on temperature. I know that it may not eliminate the parasite indefinitely, but if I can get the fish healthy and keep it from reinfesting I'll be happy.


I've also read a lot regarding the maximum temperatures that are safe for coral (this will vary wildly based on species) and other fauna... It's a raging debate.

On one side, there are anecdotal reports of dissolved O2 dropping off dramatically after 82 degrees. (I'm not so sure that this is true. The difference in d02 for 80 and 87 degrees is less than 10%.) coral bleaching out and dying, and inverts going belly up.

On the other side, there are people writing that "most" of the coral we keep often sees temperatures exceeding 88 degrees in the wild and that it's nothing to worry about. Others report that their fish and coral have been absolutely fine at 86-87 for as long as a week.

I don't want to hear any more speculation. I don't want to hear "that's a terrible ich treatment; get a hospital tank". I just want to know.

I keep 2 clowns / 1 Tail spot blenny

Soft Coral:
Zoanthids (blue + pink)
Brown Button Polyps
Green Alien Eye Palythoa
Finger Leather
Tree
Mushrooms
Ricordea
Xenea (pulsing pom pom)

LPS:
Frogspawn
Hammer

SPS:
Montipora
Birdsnest

Will slowly raising my water temperature to 87 degrees over the course of 4 days nuke my tank? Or, will it simply operate slightly above the optimal range with relatively few detrimental side effects?

 

[sharkks]

My understanding from reading countless threads is that it will not kill the ich. If you are going to leave them in the tank and manage it I would try to keep things as stress-free as possible (stable parameters) and make sure they get a crazy amount of nutrition so that they have a fighting chance to pull through. Changing any parameter such as temperature is only going to reduce their odds of survival.

 

[george915]

I've read a lot regarding Ich and it seems as though a popular approach is to increase the water temperature to ~87 degrees.

That information is probably for fresh water ich. What you are having is marine ich (Cryptocaryon irritans). Different beasts (or parasites).Raising temp doesn't work for marine ich.

 

[dunc101]

That information is probably for fresh water ich. What you are having is marine ich (Cryptocaryon irritans). Different beasts (or parasites).Raising temp doesn't work for marine ich.

Yep. IMO, the only sure way to get rid of ich is to QT every fish and properly treat it. With that said, PaulB (I believe?) has posted a very long post on this forum about why his tank doesn't have ich (he's been keeping SW fish over 40 years now). It's at least worth a read if you have decided not to QT and treat that way.

Edit: Here is his thread I was talking about.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2265978
I am by no means promoting not to QT, but I thought you should decide for yourself what you wish to do.

 

[gone fishin]

I do not believe raising temp will do anything to the ich. On the other hand you may throw your chemistry out of whack harming your livestock.

 

[billsreef]

That raising the temp trick is indeed only for FW ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis). SW ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) finds those temperature ideal, so it's only helping the parasite reproduce and reinfect the fish.

 

[R_Mc]

Well, that's very unfortunate. I called the store, where they claimed that "all fish have ich" no return policy. Even petco has a return policy if you bring a water sample.

What do you think the odds are for two young clowns? Given stable parameters, and proper feeding?

 

[billsreef]

Without using a known effective treatment, 50/50, assuming it's a light infection.

 

[gone fishin]

The LFS is full of well you know. IMO they may survive for awhile but eventually the ich will run rampant and they will most likely die. I would also find a new LFS

 

[richiero]

Qt the sick fish

 

[Pastey]

For fish that are eating well and seemingly unstressed, I believe the fish can beat ich. I don't believe my system is ich free (I didn't set up a lengthy QT or treat before introduction 2 years ago). I lost one clownfish early that was sick upon arrival in the DT. The obvious and best choice is to remove all fish, QT and treat, then leave the tank fallow of fish for 12 weeks. This isn't always possible so the only choice for some is to ride it out. Create the best conditions possible for the whole tank and keep them well fed. Don't buy into snake oils.

 

[keithhays]

ICH can live in temperatures into the 90's and your fish can't, so this will not work. I would keep your temperature stable between 77 and 79.5 degrees. Anything above 80 degrees and O2 starts to drop off quickly. Put the fish in a hospital tank and treat them with cupramine.

 

[Breadman03]

Those clowns would be perfectly happy in a 5 gallon tank for 9-12 weeks while your tank is fallow. Craigslist usually has complete setups for less than $50. You could use tank transfer or copper treatment, then resell the equipment when you are done.

 

[SantaMonica]

I tried the opposite once; reducing temps to slow the breeding cycle of the ick, which would give more time for the UV to kill enough of it to make it go away from a new fish. It worked, but it's a 57w UV (strong), and I only tried it once.

 

[keithhays]

I tried the opposite once; reducing temps to slow the breeding cycle of the ick, which would give more time for the UV to kill enough of it to make it go away from a new fish. It worked, but it's a 57w UV (strong), and I only tried it once.

Generally, this will not affect it either way, lowering temperatures will however thin the slime coat on the fish making it easier to see parasites. Strong UV can slow down the reinfection rate (not much), but will not rid the tank of it meaning eventually you will see it again.

 

[Jorgens]

My first reef had ich for years. If your fish stay healthy it is not a problem. I did however, feed a home-made mash with garlic and baby viatamines in it. Hippo tang and all live a long happy life. It can be lived with if you have proper husbandry. stress will cause an outbreak, stable paramaters and you won't even know it's there....

 

[bjm1287]

Last time my tank was above 85 (before apex) bad things happened. Lost several sps

 

[Dmorty217]

Your better off going the hypo route

 

[jerpa]

I wouldn't raise the temperature. My tank has hit those temperatures before but it has also been acclimated to rather large swings. A tank that has had a stable temp for the last four years will likely not fair well. You will also be stressing fish that are already fighting a parasite. Additionally, it will do absolutely nothing for your ich problem, except maybe eliminate the hosts.

 

[Andyf30]

+1 on the hyposalinity route