Is 86-87 degrees reef safe (Ich Treatment)

Reefs die in the wild from a 2 degree temperature rise. If you raise the temp 6+ degrees or more to achieve the 87-88 mark you can be assured that corals will die and so will the fish. Set up a QT tank and get the fish into it, leave your DT ruining for the 8 wk fallow period and you should have no issues
 
Reefs die in the wild from a 2 degree temperature rise. If you raise the temp 6+ degrees or more to achieve the 87-88 mark you can be assured that corals will die and so will the fish. Set up a QT tank and get the fish into it, leave your DT ruining for the 8 wk fallow period and you should have no issues

This is incorrect info. Reefs don't die at 2 degree fluctuations.

The annual range on an average, stereotypical reef is about 9 degrees (77-86). The daily range is roughly half that but can be as less than 1 degree or more than 12 degrees.
 
This is incorrect info. Reefs don't die at 2 degree fluctuations.

The annual range on an average, stereotypical reef is about 9 degrees (77-86). The daily range is roughly half that but can be as less than 1 degree or more than 12 degrees.

I think you guys are talking about two different things. Reefs die in wild when suddenly the yearly average for the entire body of water changes by x degrees. This is completely difference from daily ranges or even yearly ranges with in a particular area.

This equivalent of when the world average temperature rises two degrees which is somewhat astronomical, but Kansas fluctuates by 10 degrees in one day or 50 degrees in a year. People don't die when Kansas fluctuates, but the same cannot be said of a 2 degree world average change.
 
This is incorrect info. Reefs don't die at 2 degree fluctuations.

The annual range on an average, stereotypical reef is about 9 degrees (77-86). The daily range is roughly half that but can be as less than 1 degree or more than 12 degrees.

Not sure you offered a solution while trying to prove me wrong in some fashion. The corals in his tank that is full of ich is what I'm trying to help him from loosing along with all fish in the system. Not sure you contributed in this in anyway.
 
Not sure you offered a solution while trying to prove me wrong in some fashion. The corals in his tank that is full of ich is what I'm trying to help him from loosing along with all fish in the system. Not sure you contributed in this in anyway.

Not trying to prove anything wrong. Just pointing out that tid bit was a little off. No harm meant.

OP got the best advise already for his current situation.

He stated no other tanks could be used. Hypo was your suggestion.

:bounce3:
 
On the return policy most of the stores that I used to deal with didn't have a return policy either it is nice to see them coming around.
 
I do not believe raising temp will do anything to the ich. On the other hand you may throw your chemistry out of whack harming your livestock.

Raising the temp will make the paracites nice and warm and toasty, but they will not leave your fish.
If I had one fish with ich I would treat it with copper, thats it.

This week I bought a copperband that was covered in ich. I got him for less than ten bucks and ich is very easy to kill so Ibought the fish and put him in a small tank for a week with copper. She is now healed and I will put her in my tank. Copper kills ich quaranteed, every time no problem but you have to keep it at the correct strength continousely.
If the fish is in your tank with corals and other fish, that is a different story and I don't want to get into that, as was said, I did post a thread about that but it takes some time to get a tank in that type of shape.
 
20 pennies to the gallon. And even then in the very early 70s. my fish were spawning so don't knock pennies. :beer:
 
Not trying to prove anything wrong. Just pointing out that tid bit was a little off. No harm meant.

OP got the best advise already for his current situation.

He stated no other tanks could be used. Hypo was your suggestion.

:bounce3:

Sounds like he is SOL
 
Surely lowering the salinity to where it would need to be for hypo would cause just as many problems as raising the temperature for them would.
I do agree that rasing the temperature is a bad idea as it would just speed up the metabolism and kill your fish faster.
If you can keep them feeding, stress free and the water stable then you have a chance. I've also made use of cleaner shrimps which won't help with the ich and can't catch it, as fish infected seem to like the therapeutic cleaning these have which reduces stress further.
 
Hey not sure if any one has mentioned this but dr g's anti-parasitic fish food works. It reef safe and iv used it in my reef tank. Now my tang would not touch it much but my two clowns ate it up. I added a drop of garlic for taste and for immune system booster. Now I must mention it kinda messy just like brine shrimp so keep your flow low and try not to blow it every where. I don't have a QT tank at my house and copper was way out of the question. Hope this helps you! Good luck
 
I have had luck with putting chloroquine phosphate into the food. Clowns will eat it and it will kill the cryptocaryon. I have seen no adverse effects on corals or anemones and it does help them fight off the ich. Feed for at least 4-6 weeks.
 
I have had luck with putting chloroquine phosphate into the food. Clowns will eat it and it will kill the cryptocaryon. I have seen no adverse effects on corals or anemones and it does help them fight off the ich. Feed for at least 4-6 weeks.

It is much more likely that if you are seeing positive results from chloroquine phosphate, that your ich is Marine Velvet. But since I have seen no scientific evidence that it helps anything (only anecdotal), but malaria...maybe they had malaria. :) jk

I would go with the Cupramine, if it really is cryptocaryon there is a really awesome chance they might not live through the week, let alone 4-6 weeks.
 
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