Is is possible to reverse severe stress in quarantine?

DamienHanna

New member
Hi all,

I'm writing this note because I am so fed up with my hit and miss success rate in quarantine. I have been an active marine enthusiast for many years and consider myself pretty knowledebale and concientious. I suycessfully maintain 2 large systems (a 240G reef and a 300G FOWLR) and have good healthy specimens of both fish and inverts in both tanks.

My quarantine record however is very mixed and its come to the surface again since I decided to add a few more fish to my pretty lightly stocked 300. I maintain a good quarantine setup; a 40G tank with live rock (I don't medicate in the QT system and like to have rock in there), a good hang-on-tank skimmer, excellent circulation and mechanical filtration. I change 10% of the water every other day and do not have any lights on the system. I run hyposaline conditions in the QT tank and reduce salinity to 1.009 over the course of a week when start quarantining new specimens and then maintain it for 4 four weeks.

I purchased a couple of specimens at the weekend; a small yellow tang and a nice medium size golden butterfly. Sometimes I quantine individually and sometimes together; I know the risk of having more than one speciem in QT at the same time. They both looked healthy in the store, were eating fine and had been in the store's tanks for a few weeks (I visit regularly). I acclimated the specimens with a drip feed from the tank to their bag (the store is only 10 mins away so no issues with depressed Ph, lack of oxygen or toxin build up). I netted the new guys and released them into the new system and all looked great. The butterfly immediately started to explore the system, picking at the rocks and generally looking great. So it continued for the next 24 hours. He ate mysis and picked at some flake food and continued to cruise the system with obvious interest. Water params were fine; no ammonia, no nitrite, stable Ph and nitrate < 5ppm (I used 50% new water and 50% water from my reef system to seed the QT setup).

24 hours later he didn't look so good; his breathing was more rapid and he wasn't moving around as much. Yes, it's happened again I said. Every time I see a new fish get into this state the result is the same - progressive deterioration with increasing respiration rate and then death. Sure enough, 24 hours later he was dead and everything in the tank was perfect. The yellow tang was swimming around happy as a clam and eating fine.

I'd seen it many times before in my QT process and reminded myself why I buy so few fish; its such a crap shoot. The results are the same regardless of whether they are store bough specimens or mail order; I would say that 30% of my QT subjects end up this way. They start out great for a few days or even weeks and then take a sudden turn, start breathing rapidly and then die within 24 hours. Its so frustrating and I feel so helpless when it happens. This was an expensive speciem ($130) and I took a lot of care and prepared well for the QT process and still it suffered and died and it ****es me off.

What am I doing wrong here?
Are some fish just destined to get more stressed than others?
Is it possible to reverse this death spiral once it starts?

I have read everything I can about stress management (stable temp, Ph and water params, low lighting, plenty of hiding places, quiet location etc. etc.) and have done it all but still this happens. I am just not satisfied with my survival record and want to figure this out. I would love to hear from other folks who have great success with the quarantine process and get any advice or feedback on my process. I hate to see a healthy speciem go downhill so fast and be unable to do anything to help...

--Damien
 
Would you consider quarantine without the hyposalinity? We all have different, for lack of better word, styles. But I personally wouldn't put a fish through that process unless I had some reason to think he specifically needed it - like seeing white spots on his body.

I don't always quarantine but when I do, it's a lush macro/LR rich 30g full of pods, worms sponges etc.


I can't think of anything more stress reducing than to put a tang in an algae rich environment - making a fish "happy" can go a long way toward strengthening its natural defenses. I haven't had butterflyfish but i imagine a few weeks in my algae tank would be pretty cool for one- lots of cool worms or whatever to munch. if I was wanting to make an expensive butterfly happy, I might even treat it to the least expensive coral polyps I could find for it.

Anyway that's my approach - last time I posted something off the wall like buying corals for a fish to eat, somebody flamed me so bad they wound up getting banned -- so I understand if my suggestion is not appreciated :D
 
small tangs need to graze and eat consistantly throughout the day... would you consider adding directly to the system?? I know its "risky" but if they are doing great at the store, then why not?

i agree that doing hypo right off the bat is not needed. Keep the salinity at like 1.017ish.. that is perfect for a QT until you see some obvious signs of ich or something....

hope you have better luck!
 
would you consider adding directly to the system?? I know its "risky" but if they are doing great at the store, then why not?

I had a male flame wrasse that was healthy for over 7 weeks in quarantine and just when I was getting ready to add him (decided to wait a few more days just in case) to the tank he broke out with a case of trematodes that took his life. If I would have added that seemingly healthy fish to my tank then all the other fish would be dead as well.

That is the reason we quarantine. I don't add a single fish until I KNOW that they are healthy. That being said I also don't dose them up with medication unless I have to either. Innocent until proven guilty :)
 
I've always had this dilemma when it comes to QT.
I think it is wise to QT a fish and see if it is carrying any disease, however I believe most QT tanks cause excess stress and cause disease.
A QT tank is just not set-up as nice as our main tanks are. The filter systems aren't as good. The control systems aren't as good.

I think a lot of the time QT tanks cause problems. On the other hand, if a new fish can make it through QT, it is doing great and should be a healthy addition to the main tank!
 
I've had the complete opposite. My success rate has increased many fold by using QT and proactively treating for parasites, especially those from the LFS. Keep in mind how many fish and parasites a fish can be exposed to by first being held at the exporter, then the wholesaler, then the LFS. Even if they use UV or copper doesn't mean that you are assured you are not going to get disease.

I proactively now treat with Cupramine, for parasites such as ich and velvet (Hypo does NOT kill velvet and velvet is a much more virualent parasite than ich) and then treat with Prazipro for external flukes (they are not killed by copper.) Cupramine is a very affective and the least toxic to fish, even hyper copper sensitive fish such as multicolor angels. This has also kept me from contaminating the main tanks.

My QT's contain a biological filter, all sides covered, PVC tubes, elbows, etc. to give lots of hiding places, heater and power heads for circulation. I also always keep the top covered. Test for ammonia frequently. Water kept at 80 degrees and 1.023. The front cover is removed after one week.
 
My own 'style" is to understock and take all my chances early in the tank's development. I do not plan to lose fish. I stock what I will always have, and generally the tank stays as-is. I'm also very careful about the inverts I bring in: I buy from clean suppliers.
An lfs that uses the same water-system for its fish and its invert tanks brings a certain risk of bringing something in: washing inverts in a final bath of your own tank water [which you throw out] before putting them into your tank is a good idea, imho, after acclimation.
 
I'm with Largeangels. My setup is almost exactly the same. The issues I had with QT early on had to do with a bad NH3 test kit. Bad thing was it took me a while to figure out what I was doing wrong.

I didn't QT once. Only once. It was a male female mandarin pair. I didn't notice they were so stressed at the LFS their slime coat was deficient and they brought home ich. Killed everything in the tank but my 2 clowns; and that was a close thing. So now I also treat proactively with low toxicity Cu for 2-3 weeks and then dilute through WC. I need to start using Prazi and de worm. Just heard too many horror stories.

I do clean out the tank after every QT but keep my cycled filters in water running. Its in a low traffic area that I can keep dark.
 
cupramine will kill most wrasses and 95% of butterflies, and many tangs. I have used it on all fish, and the only ones that were strong enough to take a heavy dose (big enough to kill parasites) were eels (most notably dragon and dwarf) and triggers (bluethroat, crosshatch, goldenback)

Fairy wrasses cannot withstand copper treatment (i used 1/4 dose and it killed a few fairies - healthy ones) Keep in mind no fairy had any signs of ich or parasites.

coppersafe is a much better choice for the delicate fish.
Just my opinion and experience.
I will never treat a wrasse or butterfly especially with copper!
 
My quarantine tank for new fish is a 30G breeder with a DSB,softies,and zoos.It's a regular home that makes the new fish feel comfortable,but gives them a chance to get used to my routine and the house noises.It gives me a chance to watch them eat,and to be able to easily remove them if they need a hospital tank.
I don't think there is anything more stressful for a new fish than a bare tank,and a change in water conditions.
 
Some things worth mentioning when talking about Cupramine is that if it is used in conjunction with Formalin,Paragaurd, any other product with a aldehyde base , the system is overdosed with a dechlorinator , or a UV unit is on when used the Cupramine will be broken down from its bound state into a much more toxic state (about 10 times) and this can prove to be very lethal.

Don't ask me why I know.

:(
 
I agree Zemuron. I should have said I used Copperpower for my wrasses and butterflies. Labouti, lineatus and carpenters all did fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7886690#post7886690 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Philwd
I agree Zemuron. I should have said I used Copperpower for my wrasses and butterflies. Labouti, lineatus and carpenters all did fine.


I've used CP for years and have not found any fish that reacted to it adversely. As to it and other chelated coppers being less effective as opposed to the non-chelated types as stated by many experts, I'm sure they are right but I've never run into any thing in which copper is the desired course of treatment and have CP not do the trick.
 
i've used copper as well. I've used cuppramine and coppersafe. Coppersafe is the only one that didnt kill anything. I lost almost half my stock when i used cuppramine (no other treatments or UV running - follows the dosage to the T) killed every butterfly and many wrasses (including 4-line, ornates, pencil etc) and a few tangs (yellows, koles, lavender) I think cuppramine is way to stong. Even at running 1/16 of a dose all the time, my friend was losing butterflies constantly, and he only holds them for a max of 2 weeks.
I still dont trust copper entirely, but it does work on getting rid of most if not all parasites!
 
Forgive me if I repeat anyone...I'm in a hurry and just skimmed over post..

I always qt..I have 2-55 gallon's to use both have HOB filters with bio wheels that were first placed in my main for 6 plus weeks.. I have those fake cheesy decor for the fish to hide and have occasionally placed live rock in there..............but, what you need to remember at 1.009, your rock is no longer live..If it was live when you placed it in, you killed all the life on it as you brought the SG down.. This in turn will cause water quality issues..

I don't treat prophylactically..Hypo is good for ich but nothing else. I always wait and try and get a proper diagnosis.

PH. Drops during hypo and needs to be checked 2x's a day..When I put fish through hypo, I added buffer to the new water when I did water changes.. I did water changes every other day, at least 30-40% I would change the water daily if I was medicating.

I have had great success with qt, I did lose a Potters about 6 months ago due to a horrible mouth injury he received when the LFS worker pinned him up against the glass by his mouth:mad: He was fine at first but two weeks later he looked as if his mouth had exploded:( I tried everything but couldn't save him...he couldn't eat:(

So that is one dead fish out of 6 that I have qt in this past year, the rest are doing well.. I have 14 fish between my two tanks, all of which were qt'd... The Potters would have made it had he not been injured.

Your Butterfly may have died even if you had placed him directly in your main...An had he been sick, Butterfly's are known for carrying worms..he could have infected your whole tank..Then all your fish would have been at risk..Its not worth it..
 
what you need to remember at 1.009, your rock is no longer live..If it was live when you placed it in, you killed all the life on it as you brought the SG down.. This in turn will cause water quality issues..

I don't believe this is true,but I can't seem to get clarification on the issue.I know that algae and other micro fauna on the rock will die causing an ammonia spike,but if it is just cycled rock kept under a no light condition,there should be nothing to die off.The bacteria on the rock that keeps the tank cycled should not die off at 1.009.

Comments?
 
I've had the complete opposite result with Cupramine. Every single angel, wrasse, butterfly, clown, etc. I have has gone through Cupramine treatment. I have never lost one from treating with Cupramine. As Dave stated it will have adverse affects with other chemicals and UV. Just don't mix anything else with it. One other thing about Cupramine is that Seachem has had problems with their test kits so people overdosed because the test did not react properly. It showed up as no or low copper when in fact they had plenty. What also made it worse was that their "sample" kit showed that the kit was accurate when it wasn't. I use Red Sea test Copper test kit. It only reads up to 0.4 ppm. But Cupramine is very affective at these doses. Or you can mix six drops of the reagant to 20 ml of water and then only use 10 ml of that for test and double your results.
 
2 of my friends who have systems like mine all lost butterflies, some wrasses, and some tangs when dosing cupramine even at "non lethal" dosages...
what was your salinity, and copper concentration? I had mine at .25 ppm i think, and salinity was 1.017..

Many wholesalers use to use to cupramine in HI and have stopped since they were losing delicate fish on many different occasions.
 
I keep mine around 0.4 at 1.023. Accurate test kit is key to Cupramine. I went through 3 sets (directly from Seachem) until I gave up on their test kits. Red Sea Copper test kits have been on the money everytime. The dose is more leathal at lower salinities. Are they using dechlorinators or something for ammonia?
 
I have an achilles tang in quarantine right now (6th week). He has gone through 2 weeks of cupramine treatment no problems and he was in really rough shape when he arrived (mailorder)
 
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