is my ritteri sick?
- Thread starter CTaylor
- Start date
saltwaterfish.com << as well as the perc that came in with film on her originally. Side note, I ordered a medium large rit from them and got two small ones.. with no note from them telling me of the subsitution. The sebae was sold as a medium. When shrunk it's size of a silver dollar. Its like a medim large maxi mini carpet. the sebae was fine for a while until I got the ritteri's. When the rits went to treatment tank, I noticed the sebae not looking well.
But they were all from swf.
However, the rit I got before THOSE, was from LA. It was a large one, but came in with a tear on it, and it deteriortated quickly after, likely also infected. It perished a week or so after I got it. I didnt treat it. I was just figuring out and getting the medicines needed by then it was too late.
I realize now that the anemone that the pic of the excretion came from that I last posted -- that is a pic of tentacles and I guess zoanthella. It started losing tentacles liek that after I put the sick sebae in the hospital. It lost some mroe today.. Looked like poop, but it had the anem color and the yellow tips. so 99% i'm sure it's tentacles.
I took out the sebae and flushed it. I had to, it was disintegrating, and just apparently negatively afecting the ritt's I did 100% watre change, and heavy dose of cipro. THis morning a glob of tentcales came off.. a small blob, but still.
Hopefull now the sebae is out the ritts can go back to recovering. That tentacle loss right now is the main issue I havfe wth ritt #1 (the one that was siick 1st). ***Whill those tentacles comem back, and do you think #1 will recover? it looks fine other wise. I dont konw yet if it stopped deflating.
#2 doesnt seem to be losing tentacles. But its stomach still comes out, though just partially, it never looks 'a mess'. I dont know yet if it stopped deflating. I'll observice both over next 24 hrs.
I'm concerned they are not gettng enough nutrition. But their color is keeping up. Maybe the 16 watt -- i measured it at about 60-70 par where they are -- is just enough for them (??).
I took out the sebae and flushed it. I had to, it was disintegrating, and just apparently negatively afecting the ritt's I did 100% watre change, and heavy dose of cipro. THis morning a glob of tentcales came off.. a small blob, but still.
Hopefull now the sebae is out the ritts can go back to recovering. That tentacle loss right now is the main issue I havfe wth ritt #1 (the one that was siick 1st). ***Whill those tentacles comem back, and do you think #1 will recover? it looks fine other wise. I dont konw yet if it stopped deflating.
#2 doesnt seem to be losing tentacles. But its stomach still comes out, though just partially, it never looks 'a mess'. I dont know yet if it stopped deflating. I'll observice both over next 24 hrs.
I'm concerned they are not gettng enough nutrition. But their color is keeping up. Maybe the 16 watt -- i measured it at about 60-70 par where they are -- is just enough for them (??).
ThRoewer
New member
I never had anemones lose tentacles from Cipro treatment. If keeping the anemone in a basket, tentacles that go through the basket's holes may get cut off by the sharp edges. But an anemone tossing tentacles isn't normal.
While a lot light is certainly helpful, anemones can go a week with less. Also, an anemone that just sits there uses not much energy. So feeding is certainly not needed and would do more harm than good.
While a lot light is certainly helpful, anemones can go a week with less. Also, an anemone that just sits there uses not much energy. So feeding is certainly not needed and would do more harm than good.
Ritter are not in a basket.. they are in the 7 gallon tank on a rock in the pic. Here's a fresh pic, as of this moment. Now with an airstone as well.
I think that sebae did soemething.. introduced something to the ritt's.. They likely even had bits of that sebae on themselves.
#1 is on the left, #2 is on the right.
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OrionN
Moved on
Anemones sometime, when deflated, twisted and break off tentacles. Sometime due to injury in transport or infection start to have holes on tentacles and loose this. This cause them to loose tentacle tips. I have seen this in a few tentacles at a time, but not all of them. Sometime anemones in poor condition or poor health resorbed their tentacles and become "bald". I see this happen with BTA in pictures.
I even have a picture of my Magnifica somewhere that the tentacles was injured and healed jointed together and formed a Y, that is two base with one tip, not two tips with one base (a split).
Anyway, just continue with taken good car of him and hope for the best.
BTW, you ordered one anemone and got two in the bag? Did your anemone split on route, in the bag? Just wonder.
I even have a picture of my Magnifica somewhere that the tentacles was injured and healed jointed together and formed a Y, that is two base with one tip, not two tips with one base (a split).
Anyway, just continue with taken good car of him and hope for the best.
BTW, you ordered one anemone and got two in the bag? Did your anemone split on route, in the bag? Just wonder.
Hi Orion,
TY for responding
For whatever reason the tentacles were released.. Coincidence after I put the sebae in same hospital tank. So could be related. I dont know.
But I doubt the ritt split in the shipping, as they both looked competely 'whole' no signs to me that anything happened like a split.
It's been about a week since I put the sebae in the hospital (sebae broke down soon after goign in hospital). I'm going to reintroduce the ritteris to my DT . I dont see anything else i can do. I'm not an expert at all. But it's been 9 days, and they are declining in appearance IMO just from lack of ideal conditions just from being in the hosptial tank that can sustain them probably just this long.
They deflate some, but not a lot, possibly because of just being in hospital.
***Do I need to "rinse" them of their antibioics they may be containing before re-into to DT? It's been about 18 hrs since last dose. And they had 7 hrs of light so far.. 12 hrs if I move them over tonight. I'm just worried about the cipro affecting my tank that is in the anemonies.
***Also I'd like to use the rock they are on. Do I need to separate them from it, and rinse the rock thoroughly in fresh salt water,.. maybe let it sit in fresh salt water a few days? As the Cipro may be abosrobed into the rock? If it's risky to put that back in at all I will dump it.
TY!
ThRoewer
New member
I usually put the anemone back with the ceramic plate or rock it is on. Removing it would be unnecessary stress.
I never "rinse" them. The antibiotics we use decompose within hours, especially when exposed to light. So I wouldn't worry too much about that unless the last dose was just hours ago (in which case you shouldn't return the anemone to the DT.)
Before returning the anemone to the DT I would always wait for at least 2 days in which the anemone looked good and didn't deflate. That way you can be fairly certain that it is no longer sick.
I never "rinse" them. The antibiotics we use decompose within hours, especially when exposed to light. So I wouldn't worry too much about that unless the last dose was just hours ago (in which case you shouldn't return the anemone to the DT.)
Before returning the anemone to the DT I would always wait for at least 2 days in which the anemone looked good and didn't deflate. That way you can be fairly certain that it is no longer sick.
OrionN
Moved on
If you ordered one, but get two in the same bag, it is likely that they split on-route, especially if you confirm with seller that they only send one.
If your anemone continue to deflates, you should not put them back in DT. It is easy to keep condition of HT stable. You need to do 100% water change daily, get water from DT. You also need a good heater to keep temperature stability, and small PH to help with circulation, and some sort of partition to keep the anemones from getting suck into the PH, a small clip on Florescence light or LED light is all you need for light. Total cost of these is likely less than the cost of a single anemone. You should have then on hand before getting your anemone. They are essential, cannot do without when you are looking for an anemone.
When return to DT, you just need to keep the anemone in clean water without antibiotic for a few days, then just transfer him over.
DO NOT PUT HIM BACK IF HE CONTINUE TO DEFLATES. He will not do well and will foul up your DT when he meet his demise.
I just look at the picture of your HT.
I am sorry that you are very unprepared. Air stone is not adequate circulation for Magnifica. No heater is terrible. You are right, I don't think your HT is conductive to anemone survival. The amount of bubbles on top of the HT water indicated that the water condition is poor, full of protein and thus high in ammonia (or will be high).. Unless you get the needed equipment quickly, your anemone most likely will not make it.
If your anemone continue to deflates, you should not put them back in DT. It is easy to keep condition of HT stable. You need to do 100% water change daily, get water from DT. You also need a good heater to keep temperature stability, and small PH to help with circulation, and some sort of partition to keep the anemones from getting suck into the PH, a small clip on Florescence light or LED light is all you need for light. Total cost of these is likely less than the cost of a single anemone. You should have then on hand before getting your anemone. They are essential, cannot do without when you are looking for an anemone.
When return to DT, you just need to keep the anemone in clean water without antibiotic for a few days, then just transfer him over.
DO NOT PUT HIM BACK IF HE CONTINUE TO DEFLATES. He will not do well and will foul up your DT when he meet his demise.
I just look at the picture of your HT.
I am sorry that you are very unprepared. Air stone is not adequate circulation for Magnifica. No heater is terrible. You are right, I don't think your HT is conductive to anemone survival. The amount of bubbles on top of the HT water indicated that the water condition is poor, full of protein and thus high in ammonia (or will be high).. Unless you get the needed equipment quickly, your anemone most likely will not make it.
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Well IMO anymore time in treatment bacteria infection or not they will not survive this little make shift tank. At this point what harm will it do to re-tinro to the DT? Even if they are cured of the bacterial infection, I dont see them making it much longer in the conditions of the hospital tank. I dont know if the light is not enough, or having the water changed daily. The conditions can't be as 'good' as what they would have in the DT.
Here's a pif of them now. Also I think they finally stopped releasing tentacle (??) and other black parts a few days ago.
Here's a pif of them now. Also I think they finally stopped releasing tentacle (??) and other black parts a few days ago.
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Orion,
Yes I have all that and am doing it since last Saturday 9 days ago... Thank you for posting those directions on the site.
Hi Orion,
I have a power head in there. No heater b/c the temp stays stable through the day. I'm home working all day, and it stays 79-80 all 24 hrs. A heater woudl make it fluctuate a little more. So they have good circ and stable temp. When I change all the water 100 % I get the foam after wards. That was happening after they were releasing tentacles. It's possible those remains were lodged in the live rock they are attached to..
every time I look at the temp it's always 80 .. I think it may be possible the live rock has decay on it (??). or has decay from when the 'nem's pooped and/or releaed some balls of tentacles...
I just took out the live rock. I did 100% change. I do 50-75 % daily normally. I"m thinking it must be the live rock holding pollutants, etc.
I just took out the live rock. I did 100% change. I do 50-75 % daily normally. I"m thinking it must be the live rock holding pollutants, etc.
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ThRoewer
New member
Is that natural rock or artificial?
In any case, properly cured live rock normally shouldn't foul water. it's more likely coming from the anemones.
Sick anemones can slime alot and foul water by expelling internal fluids at an amazing rate. Sometimes you will have to do more than one water change a day to keep the water clear. I actually found that using a skimmer can be beneficially in some cases.
it's artificial, but it's been in my DT for 1 1/2 years. And perhaps the die off from the bacteria due to cipro wasn't a good thing (?). And it may be a sponge for the anemone waste in a way. Anyhow it's out of there, and replaced with a ceramic saucer. I was trying to use a mug, but there's no way I could get the nem's to attach on to a curves surface. I thought of turning mug upside down, but then the nems' would be very close to water surface. And that would jjusut be the same a high up saucer. . So i'm going focus on water cleanliness. I know orion insists (?) on a heater. but in my situation, it seems better without the +/-1 to 2 degree fluctions compare to my smoother fluctuatoin of +/- 1 i have now. I'll 'test' cleanliness by foam on water surface. THough I"m usting both PH and air pump. So others with same hospital tank may not see foam unless they are using an air pump also for surface agitation/aeration. Anyhow, I think taking out the LR was a good step I alredy have no foam in water. I would get foam before right after the nearly 100% water change.
. So i'm going focus on water cleanliness. I know orion insists (?) on a heater. but in my situation, it seems better without the +/-1 to 2 degree fluctions compare to my smoother fluctuatoin of +/- 1 i have now. I'll 'test' cleanliness by foam on water surface. THough I"m usting both PH and air pump. So others with same hospital tank may not see foam unless they are using an air pump also for surface agitation/aeration. Anyhow, I think taking out the LR was a good step I alredy have no foam in water. I would get foam before right after the nearly 100% water change.
